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 Post subject: Project Taurus
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 12:11 pm 
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Hi,

yesterday i started the first work

PART ONE: realization of a tip from a friend from TTE

step1: matrial procure

2x 10cm long 30mm samco hose, machine two connector's so that the hose can't slip of the pipe, 60cm long 32mm stainless pipe (dont' know how much inch it is), 2 stainless elbows
-> WIG welding

step2: pipe costomize and welding

only one pic in finished condition becouse i want to safe time

[img][img]http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/8483/khlung3.jpg[/img][/IMG]

be sure that you have enought space to the pipe all around, and no it's not only a pipe and 2 elbows there are 4 angle's

step3: mounting

[img][img]http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5706/khlung2.jpg[/img][/IMG]

[img][img]http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/1762/khlung4.jpg[/img][/IMG]

[img][img]http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5342/khlung1.jpg[/img][/IMG]

i take 1,5cm space between radiator and pipe and also 1,5cm between engine and pipe to compensate engine motion

don't think that this is a 30min action, it is much work to make the pipe fit perfect and as i have no routine in this....it is around 5hours, 5 canny hours with smoke break :D

to be contiued.....

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:12 pm 
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Location: Austria
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Hi,

today it goes on, but first my impression about the stainless pipe, i never saw the themp. needle falling down so fast even on midday (in the half of it's normal position if the engine is warm), until this mod the needle falls donw only when it was cold, early in the morning or at night in spring or fall, and now the work of today

PART TWO:

C-One Stabilizer:

i'am up to 50% a lucki guy, the front stabilizer link was to open, but the rear links not, a angle grinder got the problem solved

[img][img]http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/6623/stabilizerf.jpg[/img][/IMG]

[img][img]http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1710/stabilizerr.jpg[/img][/IMG]

these stabilizer make the car stable in a curve when you change of load, it feels pretty better then with OEM where the car's rear bounce

J Speed Braided Clutch Line

what a horrible work, but it is not impossible it is fine when you have a friend by your side with small hand :)

[img][img]http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/2668/clutchline.jpg[/img][/IMG]

safe your time money and especially neves, there is no feelable difference to the OEM line

comming soon:
TTE Group A Swirlpot (Intercooler)
Jabsco Pump (Intercooler)

to be continued.....

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:56 am 
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Car Model: ST205
Sunny,

This is great :D

Looking forward to seeing the swirlpot mod, I know there has been a lot of discussion around this over the years ;)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 2:49 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
I presume that TTE found it necessary to fit a swirl pot to the Water-To-Air (WTA) charge cooler because the coolant was close to boiling or aereating in some way? Perhaps this is why they went for a Front-Mount-Intercooler (FMIC) on the Corolla WRC?

Alex, regarding the engine coolant, are you planning on fitting a swirl pot for that as well? The TTE setup seemed to rely on a stainless steel braided 'bleed' line from the high point of the curved hose which takes the hot coolant from the end of the cylinder head to the sealed radiator top tank. This bleed line was routed to the engine coolant header tank on the wing. I'm not sure how effective this was, it was certainly different to a conventional swirl pot.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 3:53 pm 
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Hi,

Loosey, you become pictures in mai, becouse i'am waiting for some parts :)
and another discussion ist started yet :lol:

TTF, i think there are two resons for the swirlpot

- cavitation (becouse of a more powerfull pump)
- it is the highest position, means you can fill the intercooler to his maximum level without any air

if you have problems with the themp you can go for a bigger radiator or you can change the radiator cap against a more powerfull item, i can't see it clear on the picture you sent to me, but i think it speaks 3,8bar, means a boiling point of 140°C - 145°C i don't know it exacely any more

going for a FMIC......my theory is:

WTA is better for spool-up, and a little bit worse in efficiency
FMIC is a bit better in efficiency but worse for the spool up

they use FAS (fresh air system) or anti-lag, means no spool up problem in the corolla so they go for lighter and less complex system (only one radiator, no pump, wiring), and the ST205 still have a WTA becouse is was rally proved and the anti lag was a "new kid on the block" :)

going for a swirlpot for the engine water is a option too, but i think that i'am not so often on a race-way where cooling becomes really important especially when you drive long, so i'am not sure, but a system like TTE use should possible with a MR2 thermostat-housing and water/air lines on position's where air can flow up easy (the reason why TTE build it in the curved alu-pipe you talk about), but even in the best engine cooling system you will find 200-300cm³ of air
possible that i will build this system when i have to much time, but not sure :)

why is the TTE system different to others?

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:44 pm
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Car Model: ST205
Hi Sunny,

Is the front stabilizer uprated or just shiney :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 7:51 pm 
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Hi,

205, it is a uprated c-one type :lol:

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 8:06 pm
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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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What the diameter of the new front strut bar? Have you already upgraded the rear or are you staying stock?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:23 pm 
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Hi,

cms, front and also rear is from C-ONE :)

front: OEM=15mm C-One=18mm
rear: OEM=17mm C-One=19mm

http://www.c-one.co.jp/C-ONEPARTS/stabilizer.html

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 9:53 pm 
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Interesting read 8) ...good work.

C-ONE ARBs rock :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 4:03 pm 
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Hi,

Muddy Water, thanks :)

now the 54-killer is done, i use the pink cable to control the new relays

[img][img]http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/2279/pumpe3x.jpg[/img][/IMG]

and the relay, 12V 30A

[img][img]http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/5863/pumpe2.jpg[/img][/IMG]

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 8:09 pm 
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Hi,

some different parts

[img][img]http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2695/diverseteileh.jpg[/img][/IMG]

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2009 9:37 am 
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Hi,

i was asked to write a feedback to the stainless pipe, and here we go

spec's of the engine coolant system
- TRD thermosthat
- 40mm radiator

former (befor the pipe) as i drive the car in spring or fall when it is cold in the morning and at night, after 2x or 3x WOT, the needle falls down in it's half positon and lower, means that the radiator cools down faster then the thermosthat can regulate
and now i have this every time
(i should look at the AFR, about the ecu think it is a cold start :lol: :lol: )
now i can say that my engine becomes much water especially when i drive the car hard in high rpm's, this also means that the turbo and OEM oil/water exchanger becomes more water when they must work hard, my highest oil themp. since i mounted the pipe was 103°C (former it could reach 120°C and sometime +), and yesterday i drove the car 30minutes very hard and it is bretty hot outside, i think there is much much much work to do to hit 120°C again :D

i advise you'll this mod :)

great thanks to a friend from TTE for his ideas and suggestions 8)
i'll try to realize them as good as i can :)

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2009 10:48 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:06 am
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Can anyone explain to me why replacement of the OEM blasck radiator hose by a 32mm diameter stainless steel pipe results in a drop in oil temperature from ~120deg C to ~103deg C? I an confused :?

On the TTE cars they replaced the oil/water heat exchanger doughnut with a stand-alone air cooled oil/water heat exchanger.

On track days and even the short runs in the Toyota Sprint Series the shortcomings in standard oil/water doughnut mean that most cars boil their coolant. Sirius fitted an engine oil cooler to his ST205 some time ago but I'm not sure what effect this has had on both oil and water temps under track conditions?

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2009 11:17 am 
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Not convincingly no :(

I can only think of two reasons, neither of which would, to me at least, seem to explain it

1) The metal pipe will loose a lot more heat than the rubber version. However, compared to the radiator I'd think this would be minimal in the big picture

2) The new pipe flows differently and causes more water flow through the doghnut cooler

I guess 2) is the significant factor but you'd think a metal pipe would flow better if the rubber and metal are the same size.
All I can imagine is that the rubber allows more flow due to pipe expansion when under pressure.
Restricting this flow would mean more water tried to take the bypass route which is via the oil cooler setup

I do have one other idea that I'll throw out there too

The water coming back from the rad is that much cooler - As Sunny says, lower than required. So the t/stat closes a little bit to regulate engine temp. This should force a little more round the oilcooler as the return for the cooler is post t/stat

Maybe a combination of all of that. Or perhaps I'm barking up the wrong tree entirely


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