I've just had a T-piece installed on the cylinder head of my ST205 to allow the use of the stock pressure sensor and an aftermarket one reading to a separate gauge. The stock sensor seems to have been adversely affected by this. When I start the engine the oil pressure warning light goes out but them after about 30 seconds it comes back on at idle rpm (~1,000rpm) Revving the engine makes no difference i.e. the light stays on. I haven't yet got the digital gauge installed to check what actual pressure I'm running but I suspect the sensor as nothing else has changed in the engine. It could be the infamous oil pressure relief valve but it would be an enormous coincidence if it started sticking at exactly the same time as the T-piece was fitted.

Anybody else had problems running two sensors off a T-piece in the head?

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Maybe worth bleeding it, making sure that the air has been removed from the caped end.


I all ways bleed feed pipes though to the ends, before fitting gauges.

Failing that you may have damaged the stock oil sensor, when you un dun it.
what every you need to make sure oil pressure is up.

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Black UK 96 205 shed with heater full on telemetry.

project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.

Jon, how do you bleed the lines? Do you crank the engine on the starter with the EFI fuse out and igniter unplugged until oil comes out the lines?

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

If its a fresh install, I run engine up on test gauge, once happy, then go for running the engine, with lines connected, using a small bowl, cloth, spanners etc, bleed the ends whist on tick over, you only need to allow the air to escape, bit like central heating radiators.

You think that’s a problem, dry sumped engines require bleeding, priming, after oil change and or flush though or scheduled repairs.

Plugs out, large speed controlled drill with direct drive to crankshaft, or using a small belt onto the external oil pump if dry sumped etc.

some seem easier than others, even on similar engines.

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Black UK 96 205 shed with heater full on telemetry.

project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.

Thanks Jon, I'll try the central heating radiator approach

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Don, If you wanted to try another sensor I have one on my spare St205 head. Just had a look and spotted it was still in there.

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JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

PM sent

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

I've got an S P A Design Oil Temp/Pressure gauge fitted with a 'T' allowing me to keep the stock sensor.
I know u can sometimes have probs with brass T's breaking, so mine is steel and ive had no probs at all, both working fine.

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ST205 WRC