For some reason the mahoosive Oil cooler complete with air duct underneath the car has no form or thermostat to prevent overcooling of the oil hmmm

Obviously it needs one, what is the best solution getting one on one of the lines or using a sandwich plate type thing?

Whilst on the subject of cooling, also my Coolant temp sensor is currently on the bottom rad hose instead of the top rad hose, im led to believe that this is in the wrong place and it needs changing?

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Chris
ST205 with a little help from a ST215...

The cheaper solution is typically the sandwich plate, the better solution imo is an in line stat.

I currently am using a sandwich plate. It does depend how the system is currently set up though.

I believe that measuring coolant temp on the bottom hose will lead to you measuring the 'best' case temp - ie the lowest just as the water has exited the radiator. Use the top hose and you look at the worst case - hottest as the water enters the radiator.

Can someone confirm?

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Yeah i was leaning toward sandwich plate, any idea what type you bought (i have looked but gave up as soon as it started mentioning thread sizes??)

Thats exactly as i thought. I am a bit confused however as surely as the water thermo is where the bottom rad connects to the engine id have thought the water entered the rad thru there and flowed out the top hose (cooled post rad) back into the block. But i have a feeling this theory is wrong!

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Chris
ST205 with a little help from a ST215...

The one on the bottom rad is the fan thermostat, and so it's there to measure excessive water temp IN the rad... so it's on the rad exit.

Yes, you must put your water temp meter on the top, where the water exits the engine.

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Wolf_Tm
TM 250 enduro 2 stroke
GT-four ST205 Snowy White with selfmade 3SGTE v4.1 - [2.34kg/bhp DynoDynamics]
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IMO it doesn't really matter where the water temp gauge takeoff is. After all you're looking for temperatures which are outside the normal operating range. Note, I'm assuming it's a gauge only job, not for the ECU?

If you've already got a takeoff then I say OT/2 from Think Auto

That OT/2 is actually more expensive than i sandwich plate...

http://www.thinkauto.com/cgi-bin/sh0000 ... #aOT_2f2SK

I have not the slightest clue in what size any of the threads are either, doh!

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Chris
ST205 with a little help from a ST215...

If you put a water temp gauge, I assume it's for controlling water temp values in your car, if anything is ok... rad, fan, thermostat... and possibly compare these values with other cars'.

So if you want meaningful and comparable values, there is only one place for the temp sensor...
unless you just liked to have another shiny coloured gauge on your dashboard!

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Wolf_Tm
TM 250 enduro 2 stroke
GT-four ST205 Snowy White with selfmade 3SGTE v4.1 - [2.34kg/bhp DynoDynamics]
http://www.youtube.com/WolfTm250
http://www.facebook.com/wolf.tm

Tis still my opinion that the numbers make no real difference. What you are looking for is unusual readings

Obviously if it is a feed for an ECu then it needs to be accurate but I'd probably move it anyway

Chris, it is more but might be easier if you already have all the other gubbins in position and especially if you have sensors in the current adaptor plate

Im gonna have a look 2moro i think. That said i may still not understand *bleep* i am looking at therefore im taking a camera to take pictures for DC examination!

Ill get the insides of the Caldina too, from the sounds of things everything was in VGC another genuine low miler it seems.

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Chris
ST205 with a little help from a ST215...

Good plan !

This thread my help
http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3067&highlight=oil+cooler
...alternatively ask Sirius nicely

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Vice Chairman
1990 White UK Celica ST185 - Project DTM
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Chris - what threads are you confused on? The sandwich plate needs to be a 3/4 UNF I am virtually certain.

*please check though

On the pipe run sizes you can pick whatever you want as long as it all matchs.

Mine are -10JIC thread size. 1/2 BSP is also common.

The main choice you need to make on piping is do you want fancy Aeroquip red and blue anodised fittings - or are you happy with the cadmium plated steel ones?

If the former you will go -10JIC pipe and fittings.

If the later you go 1/2" pipe with whatever fittings you want.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

The adapter required to fit a sandwitch plate is indeed 3/4 UNF. You'll already have one of those though I assume

I went with 5/8 pipes for my oil cooler. I'd highly recommend you don't do the same
It's like trying to run a drainpipe round and the fittings are huuuuge

Oh and I always say pffffft to all those shiney expensive aeroquip thingies. Barb and clips is more than sufficient but doesn't have the bling factor

Cheers for the info guys.

I have had a really unproductive weekend unfortuanetly and havent been able to get down the garage at all to have a nosey (not though any fault of my own i might add!)

I have got a much better understanding of what i will be looking at/for however when i do have a look.

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Chris
ST205 with a little help from a ST215...

Just to follow up Steve's comments.

I completely agree that the barb type push on fittings are perfectly fine, you can still use the braided hose with them aswell if you want.

Once pushed on they are never coming off unless you take tools to them like a stanley knife etc.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK