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 Post subject: "La GrOsse" cooling mod
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 2:21 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 9:14 am
Posts: 142
Location: France
Car Model: None
I want to share what MetalMachines® did for me according to the specification guidance.

Inspired by the 3S-GTE cooling post,TTE style, Sunny hard pipe, Alanv (OC.net) Corolla rad, ...


Basically a ST185 with gen.3 engine.

Previous set up : Golpher rad, 1.3 cap, TRD stat, air duct, alloy tap everywhere to avoid air leak, twin SPAL 11" pusher, 40% Ethyl / 60% water, washer bottle as unpresurised expansion tank, 13rows GB cooler, 13 rows engine cooler, 12mm spacer for end of bonnet.

Radiator and EVO8 IC arrangement
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Front face without bumper
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Alloy taping in air duct
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Alloy taping engine side
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Silicon hose (can see airbox and piping path)
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Front bumper on, under signal light for oil cooler, we can see the cold air pick up too.
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Alloy air duct pushing the bumper grid
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New set up : Sierra RS500 rad, swirlpot, header tank, alloy hard pipe, polyamide degazing tube, 1.3 cap, TRD stat, 30% Ethyl / 65% water / 5% water wetter, 13rows GB cooler, 16 rows engine cooler (not complete yet), 12mm spacer for end of bonnet, air duct (not complete yet), alloy tap everywhere to avoid air leak (not complete yet), twin fan puller (ebay fan are craps, SPAL puller very expensive, have to decide ...) .

Rad on car between rail
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More clearance between rad and turbo (hope it will keep away some of the heat soak)
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Custom swirlpot under construction
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Swirlpot installed
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Swirlpot clearance (able to install a 4" strait intake for a nice GT30 antisurged)
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Expansion tank after welding
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Modified engine silentbloc to clear expansion tank
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Expansion tank installed
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Cold hard hose (and relocated alternator test fitting)
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Cold hard hose complete and connected
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I don't find a good position for the EVO8 IC as i don't want it to seat to low, i decide to source something else and go for a second hand aftermarket subaru one which fit nice behind the bumper grid
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2nd hands Subaru part which explain the "Monster" on IC :lol:

New hot side piping for new IC
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90° bend are avoid !

Hot side piping installed
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New cold side piping too
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I said i have a low track car, from lowest point of exhaust to floor there is 34mm, have tried to correct bump steer, sort something better than OEM but not perfect yet

Try to do it as short as possible
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Relocate the IAT sensor too for accurate reading (and it works great)
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Complete with polyamide degazing tub installed
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Coolant system capacity is increased to 11.7L + 1.2L air (for expansion)

4th blank plug on the expansion tank if one day i want to run a post turbo alloy cooling tube (like the PAS one) and an electrical water pump.

On those last two pics you can see the beginning of the new air duct, with MetalMachines® logo pressed on, need times now to complete it and share more pics with you.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 2:29 pm 
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very nice indeed :-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 5:10 pm
Posts: 1953
Location: Sunny Fareham, UK
Car Model: ST205
Great work!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 2:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 27, 2010 5:38 pm
Posts: 31
Location: Turkey
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wow! awesome work :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 3:41 pm 
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WRC
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Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 6:51 pm
Posts: 1397
Location: Austria
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Hi,

5 of 5 stars 8)

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:03 pm 
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Group B
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Location: Bournemouth
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I think the monster logo would be better suited to the RS500 rad. :lol:

Looks like an excellent setup, given me some ideas as I need to do something with my 185 cooling.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:08 pm 
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Oooh - info also required on yoru alternator re-location :-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 14, 2009 4:32 pm
Posts: 251
Location: The Netherlands
Car Model: None
Very nice! 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 9:30 pm 
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WRC
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Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 6:51 pm
Posts: 1397
Location: Austria
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Hi,

does i ask you for the wall thickness of the water pipes?

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:21 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 9:14 am
Posts: 142
Location: France
Car Model: None
Thanks all for the comment, i do it like this because of your knoledge sharing here and because this time i want to do it right with no more over heating issue.

I think there is 2 thing that can uprated this setup : an electric water pump and a triple flow design rad (which can be done on the "Monster" RS500 rad) but to be fair i think 105°+C is an old story now.




Sunny,
30 OD, 27 ID means 1.5mm

Oulet water ID is 27mm, we choose this pipe because of this

Don't control Inlet water ID but i think it is similar to Oulet

They are 1 piece part, heated and then hand bended

We machined an ally log for silicone 32mm link, 25mm long, 33 OD, 30.2 ID, and weld at each end.

Every thing have been leak tested under 4 bar and is leak free, i know i could use a formula 1 rad cap, pipe won't leak or go mad.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 10:16 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:53 pm
Posts: 1736
Location: Another Shire County
Car Model: ST185
WOW...very impressed.
A lot of thought gone on here, thanks for sharing.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 4:34 pm 
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WRC
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Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 6:51 pm
Posts: 1397
Location: Austria
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Hi,

many thanks

greetz

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street legal?.....perhaps in tschibuti


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 10:17 am 
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Clubman

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 9:14 am
Posts: 142
Location: France
Car Model: None
Small Update

As i have change both rad and IC i need a new design AirDuct (it performed so well on the previous set up)

What it looked before any brainstorming with myself (:lol:)
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Image


This time IC is just behind the front bumper, the Airduct can't go from the rad to the bumper, but i have enought space between rad and IC.

After some cardboard template, i tTook some 1.5mm aluminium sheet and some foam sealant


Ended to this
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Image

Image


We can see here that the foam sealant will take care of vibration and air leak, bottom is not completly pressed, top is not at all.
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Now it is time to put back the IC, gap between rad and IC is 134mm, the aluminium sheet is 131 and foam sealant is 10mm thick each side.
You easily understand that fiiting the IC is a pita as i need to compress a lot the foam
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A front view to see where air can pass to see the rad
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My car is a 110% track car and my front CS bumper have suffer from gravel tap once or twice :roll: so is not in its best status, i decided to mod to "try to control" airflow
Cut the middle number plate holder, put 2 aluminium sheet each side of the IC (funnel shape) and some alloy tap
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Poor Iphone quality


Some mat black paint on the sheet and of course some guard to protect everything (25mm gap from guard to IC)
Image
Poor Iphone quality

Image
Poor Iphone quality


I now need to complete the oil rad set up to share the end of the front ducting.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:51 am 
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Junior WRC
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Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2005 9:58 pm
Posts: 686
Location: South Wiltshire
Car Model: ST165
excellent :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 6:54 pm
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damn good work :-)

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Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
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