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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 8:02 am
Posts: 150
Location: Basingstoke
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OK, I know it fits between turbo and actuator, where is the vsv I have to block off? anybody got a pic or diagram as to it's location and which pipe..I am also going to change turbo from ct20b to a ct26 MD228 hybrid, having asked around and contacted Turbotechnics who built it everyone seems to think it's a straight swap...would apreciate any comments on this...below is what I purchased...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 8021755832

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2006 12:56 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 1:18 pm
Posts: 188
Location: London
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Personally I'd save my pennys a tad longer and fit a ebc and go for a pukka ball bearing tubby aka not a hybrid. Some peeps fit mitsubushi tubbys which are a ball bearing type. The hybrids don't seem to last anywhere near as long and definitely don't have the strength of a bearing type turbos.

On the 185 the vsv is disabled either by cutting a wire that goes to your ecu or the way I have done it is.... after the actuator I snipped the vac pipe. Simple as that :) I just cut the pipe and stuffed blanks in either end.

I believe its the same exercise for the 205 but I am sure folks will point out if I am wrong.

Hope thats helpful

Tone

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2006 5:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:06 am
Posts: 4743
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Keith, I have an MD228 on my JDM ST205 and its got lots of low down torque. Certainly more than the standard setup :D . At higher revs it gets a bit breathless but this may be because the rest of the car is bog standard i.e. the cat is still in place.

On the JDM ST205 you will find the VSV attached to the side of the carbon fuel purge canister low down on the nearside rear of the engine bay. If you drop a vertical line from the small white plastic inercooler overflow catch tank its directly underneath :wink:

To disable the VSV all you have to do is disconnect the electrical plug from the top. No need to snip wires or cut and block vacuum pipes. What boost control are you planning to use ... relief valve or EBC of some description?

HTH

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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 Post subject: Just
PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2006 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 8:02 am
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Location: Basingstoke
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Just a mechanical one, with adjuster on top, similar to the k1ano valve..did you have any fitting probs ? oil line etc ?...at the moment just got 3" decat pipe, induction kit and electronic boost gauge...cheers for that Don...last time Mike and JP fitted one on my old 185...should have paid attention, then again sounds completely different ...

Keith..

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2006 11:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:06 am
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Can't give you any advice on fitting as it was on the car when I bought it. As you probably know I get Owens to do all my turbo work anyway so if anything goes wrong they fix it under warranty.

JP and Mike have changed turbos more often than I've had hot dinners :lol: so they might be able to advise on the pipework etc.

Relief valve will be a doddle to fit but you'll have to experiment a bit to get the setting right ... watch that boost gauge like a hawk m8....very easy to overboost/spike in this nice cold winter air. I'd recommend 1.2bar max. You should be safe at that as you'll be overfuelling like crazy at the top end of the rev band without a cat. Should keep charge temps well down but your fuel mileage will be poor.

Cheers,

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GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:53 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 5:10 pm
Posts: 1953
Location: Sunny Fareham, UK
Car Model: ST205
I found that the RV gave boost spikes when the car was cold, but settled down when things warmed up under the bonnet.

I also found that the boost would tail off higher up the rev band. Fitting an EBC is the way forward as suggested above! :)

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 Post subject: hey
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 5:09 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 8:02 am
Posts: 150
Location: Basingstoke
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Hey Kris, how are you..good christmas and new year ?..The RV is just a stop gap really, unfortunately my little pinkies ran away with me on ebay without thinking and I ended up with this turbo..The grand plan is to spend about 5.5 to 6.5k on engine mods, forged engine, cams, injectors, turbo & ecu (inc labour) 380-400BHP target about June time...Already got 2k stuffed way in the engine fund even with xmas..Just a matter of finding someone to do it.. :lol:

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