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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 10:32 am 
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Location: Auckland, NZ
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Rebuilt engine will consist of a bench flowed cylinder head (by NZ's top Toyota Guru) with HKS 264 cams and uprated valve springs. Block to have oilways cleaned up (rough castings as standard) to improve flow and will be reassembled with fully balanced crank, TRD shells, OE rods, ACL pistons (0.5 oversized) (Now changed to +1mm Wiseco) and ARP head studs/rod bolts. That will be coupled to a lightweight flywheel and uprated clutch. This will allow the rev limit to be increased to at least 8000rpm. Cooling will be kept in check with a much larger Koyo rad.
Once this is all put together, boost will be turned back down and the engine will be given time to run in properly. Will also give me chance to sort out a decent intake system using an A'Pexi filter and custom made carbon fibre cold air box. WAI will also be lagged and potentially a larger pre-rad to help keep inlet temps down. Then, I can look at a custom built tubular exhaust manifold, BB turbo (probably a GT30) and an A'Pexi ECU. Will also be fitting some GReddy 720cc top feed injectors too.

Here's the story so far....

Rods were finished being shotpeened and polished last night along with the pistons, crank, flywheel and clutch cover, they went down to the engine balancer.

Crank, flywheel and cover plate were loaded up and balanced to within a gnats whisker...
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The digital printout...
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The completed rods. All weighed and within 0.01g of each other...
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The lower end was then 'dummy' assembled to ensure that the deck height was okay. Within 1/100th mm from end to end.
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The one thing that had been holding everything up was been the TRD main shells. They finally arrived - at least 8 of them did. The centre bearings weren't sent out due to a mix up so would be delayed :cry:
Still, with the other shells, we could measure up the crank to see if any machining was required. Forget the measurement, but a miniscule amount needs to come off the crank so off it went along with the block to the engine reconditioners.

Shell sizes being measured...
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In the meantime, took the opportunity to clean up the gearbox. After 11 years use, it was absolutely caked in cr@p..
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So out came the industrial strength cleaner, a stiff wire brush, hosepipe and lots of elbow grease. Here's the result...
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With that cleaned, new driveshaft seals and release bearing were fitted. Clutch release slave unit was looking a little worse for wear so a replacement is in order.

Then disaster. While the ACL pistons were being fitted, one of the cylinders was badly scored (not by me I hasten to add!). A light hone woudn't be enough, so it would have to be a 1mm oversize bore. First though, an ultrasonic test to ensure enough 'meat' between #2 & #3 cylinders. Fortunately the scan was good - showing 4.3mm of material. Phew!

At this stage, I was about to fly off on holiday for 3 weeks, so I left it to my mechanic mate to sort out the re-bore and fitting of some new pistons.


While I was swanning around Europe, the new pistons were successfully fitted to the revised block....

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... we couldn't get some ACL +1mm pistons so turned to a set of Wisecos from the US...

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So, with that part completed, I could now start putting everything back together..

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ARP studs fitted along with the new HG...

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Oil pick-up and splash pan fitted following a few hours in the acid bath....

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New crank oil seal fitted....

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Due to different cams, altered CR and different pistons, a test was required to ensure that valves and pistons didn't come into contact with each other so off to the local toy shop for some...

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This was then put onto the piston crowns where the valves would likely come into contact...

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Once all 4 pistons had been set so they sat half way up the bores, the cylinder head could be fitted and torqued into place....

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The top cam cover backing plate and lower belt cover were fitted next to ensure that the cam wheels and bottom pulley were positioned correctly....

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.... prior to the cambelt being fitted....

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Once everything was properly assembled, the engine was carefully turned over for a few revolutions, taking care to ensure that there was no unwanted resistance.

Then, the belt and head were removed so the doh on the pistons could be inspected. This revealed plenty of clearance between pistons and valves. Obviously a good thing....

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With the doh removed, the head could be refitted. This being the current state and the end of play today...

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Managed to skive of work this arvo and managed to get quite a bit done.

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Finishing off fitting the sump to the bottom of the motor...

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... including a nice shiney powdercoated sump pan 8)

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Genuine parts where possible. New belt and idler and tensioner wheels...

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... finished off the camblet side of things...

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... allowing the bottom cover to be fitted.

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OE fuel rail (for now) was bolted on. As this was originally a 3SGE head, slight mods had to be made - including the injector holes which needed to be enlarged to suit the 3S-GTE injectors.

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Then the inlet manifold could go on.

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To the front and fitment of the alternator bracket and bling alternator :D

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State at the end of the day. Loom is now partially fitted along with numerous hoses etc. Really glad I took lots of photos before I stripped the motor down :mrgreen:

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Need to adapt the cam cover slightly as I can't use the centre throttle body support due to the lack of castings etc on the n/a head. No real issues asthere is plenty of other support. Once that is done the cover can be fitted. Then, hopefully, time to fit the box. More to follow tomorrow :D
Gary

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Last edited by GT4WRC on Sun Jan 15, 2006 7:48 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 3:36 pm 
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Gary, great write up/pics :D the engine looks fantastic ....look forward to the next installment.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 3:51 pm 
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Again - superb pictures, thanks for taking the time to post it all up. :)

One thing concerns me - 1mm overbore, I know you mentioned that you tested the block and decided this was ok but it seems like quite a lot, most folks over in the UK seem to try for a 0.2 or 0.5 at the most.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 7:01 pm 
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Now this is the kind of thread we need a My Build section for.

Top work. Are you sticking with a centre feed or utilising the 3SGE side feed throttle body?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 8:24 pm 
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Sirius wrote:
One thing concerns me - 1mm overbore, I know you mentioned that you tested the block and decided this was ok but it seems like quite a lot, most folks over in the UK seem to try for a 0.2 or 0.5 at the most.


I look at it this way. If it was on the 'weaker' blocks, then a 0.2 or 0.5mm overbore would be pushing it as (from what I've read) the thickness between the walls can be as little as 2.5mm. I have a block with 4.3mm which will be reduced to 3.3mm with the +1mm overbore. Still leaves the block with more strength. That's my theory anyway :lol:


emicen wrote:
Are you sticking with a centre feed or utilising the 3SGE side feed throttle body?


I'm sticking with the stock intake system as I'm staying with the OE WAI. The car isn't going to be used on the circuit really - sticking to what it was originally intended for. Nice twisty country roads :D
Gary

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1994 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-Four Group A WRC - running in rebuilt engine....


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 7:09 am 
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Quite a productive couple of days.

Turbo and manifold were fitted. Sticking with the stock items for the time being.
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Note the WRC extras such as the antilag attachments...
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Lightweight Fidanza flywheel was bolted on...
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... followed by the Xtreme clutch kit...
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Found the adjustable cam wheels I'd put somewhere 'safe' :roll:
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Cams were set up last night as per the HKS spec sheet...
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With that done, the cam cover could be bolted into place...
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Next, the transfer case was split from the gearbox to allow it all to be bolted up to the motor...
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With that done, the rest of the wiring loom was attached along with any other brackets etc...
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And with the alternator, PAS and aircon drive belts on, next step is to put the complete unit back where it came from :D
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Gary

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 4:57 pm 
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Brilliant stuff Gary!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 7:48 am 
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After nearly 8 weeks, it was time to put the motor/box back in. :D

Reverse of removal, simply lowered the car onto the engine....
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... allowing the gearbox and cambelt end mounts to be attached - the engine then being held it place.
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Then it was 'simply' a case of putting everything back together...
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Planty of room with the larger Koyo rad and Kenlow fans...
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Once the 'top half' was finished, the underside was pieced back together...
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... and rear diff and gearbox were filled with new oil...
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At this stage, all that remains to do is fill up the cooling system, WAI, bleed the brakes, fit the wheels and plug in the loom under the dash. Then it'll be the real acid test - turning the key. Until then, the car will sit like this until the morning...
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Having access to a fully kitted out workshop is such a bonus ;)
Gary

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:33 pm 
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Hi..

Looking good Gary

Nice to see you got it all balanced, far to many don’t bother, and wonder why its goes wrong later..

Quote” I look at it this way. If it was on the 'weaker' blocks, then a 0.2 or 0.5mm overbore would be pushing it as (from what I've read) the thickness between the walls can be as little as 2.5mm. I have a block with 4.3mm which will be reduced to 3.3mm with the +1mm overbore. Still leaves the block with more strength. That's my theory anyway quote “


What do you mean “ I have a block with 4.3mm which will be reduced to 3.3mm with the +1mm overbore “ that in my book would make it 2mm oversize lol.

I take it you mean 0.5mm to be machined from either side of the bore ..equal 1.0mm increase in the overall diameter.

Not wanting to sound like a stuck record but going 1mm oversize, even with 3.8mm bore thickness would cap any further power increase , the maths behind the wall thickness / loads, is a close call, to close as the block irregularities are not included in the workings, compared to others engines I have built, the 3sgte does have some tearful worries.

I hope this is nothing, but when using metal gaskets, the mating surfaces need to be 100 % with forced induction they need to be 125 % otherwise failure will accrue, I noticed going though these great pictures ,a few area’s that cause concern.

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I have circled them in red,

Surprised to see that the block was not , lightly surfaced ground for check of warp age, looking at the marks on the block face, some corrosion looks evident, this normally leads to low area’s thus appearing as dark marks etc, specially after some cleaning up of the face surface, they appear as scratches,,…if this is so, the combustion chamber will eventually breach the strucual integrity of the gasket, via these little grooves.

it could well be nothing, but thought I would just bring it up, as a stitch in time save 9.

Its not easy, specially when looking at pictures. …. I do hope it’s just ink.

Provisions for an oil cooler, if you want a reliable 400 bhp , surely the extra increase in reliability ,an oil cooler would be on the cards, the stock unit will not keep at bay the increase in temps when pumping out 400 bhp..

I found with 350bhp from road dyno, , that the oil temps went sky high without an extra air to oil cooler being fitted..

Keep up the good work, glad to see others getting into it..

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project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 7:32 pm 
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Hi John
Really appreciate the unput - thanks.
Marks on the block surface are nothing to worry about. The block was fully prepped by a professional outfit prior to any boring etc being carried out. Not worried about not being able to get any extra power over and above what I have planned - need to keep some sense of reality as it is my daily driver after all :lol:

Quote:
I take it you mean 0.5mm to be machined from either side of the bore ..equal 1.0mm increase in the overall diameter.


That's what I meant. Sorry for the confusion :oops:

Hadn't considered an oil cooler at this stage. Need to get the motor run in fully before I start doing naything else - but that is certainly something I can also put on the list. Also looking at increasing the size of the pre-rad too :D

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:29 pm 
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Gary - as a slight aside there's a writeup on an oil cooler install in our technical section here. :)

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:26 am 
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Gary

Phew, i am so glad its o.k. Thought it was something of nothing with the marks on the block, so hard with 2 d pictures..

Yes-sensible power levels need to be kept in mind for a daily driver, otherwise costly.

a good choice of water radiator , just the type i require for my project.

wise to add a oil cooler to the list, they do work well, almost every car i have tweak have fitted one, well worth it, and wise to add it after engine run period completed.

Its great when it all goes together, yours is looking well together now, you must be pleased with it..

Jon

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project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:13 pm 
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Just some empirical evidance in support of the oil cooler install:-

Using mine on the motorway I see 110 degree temps even cruising at 130kph (approx 80mph) during the hot (lol) English summers of 30 degrees

On what felt like the hotest day of last year (guestimate 35 deg C) I was on track at Silverstone in my car. I was seeing oil temps of 127 deg C after 5-6 hot laps

Bearing in mind the power levels I run (circa 280bhp only lol) and the average ambient temps you run in I think an Aussie 400bhp car would need a cooler without any question
In fact I'd consider a TRD low temp thermostat too


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:57 pm 
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Gary, I'd just like to confirm Steve's comments about the engine cooling. With the Koyo rad and a TRD thermostat this should keep everything under control for fast road driving.

If you do any track work then you may find you need to fit a swirl pot and header tank and possibly change to using Evans NPG (Non-aqueous Propylene Glycol) coolant. This has certainly been my experience and also Fensport's.

I'm currently working on this but my first design was wrong and now I really need to remove the ABS unit to make room for the header tank.

BTW Keep up the good work and good luck with fixing your engine bugs.

Cheers,

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
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