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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 10:46 am 
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http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/MAHLE_ ... lationTips

Checking Bearing Clearances from Mahle/Clevite along with lots of other interesting* info





*AWOOOGA, AWOOOGA, NERD ALERT, NERD ALERT, AWOOOGA, AWOOOGA


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:16 am 
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So following the above clarification on the clearances - here are the ones as measured:

Image

As Chris has said the only one that is badly out is number 5 on the exhaust cam but this is also the hardest to measure as the oil groove in the cap and the camshaft interfere.

I have decided to go ahead with getting this head properly measured and then refurbed.

Chris - I will take up your offer of transport to Terry is thats ok - I'll bring the head along on Wednesday to the curry.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:46 pm 
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A small update:

I dropped the head of this week to get refurbished. Whilst measuring up for the final time myself I discovered an error with some of the information posted above in the thread.

When I posted this original picture:

Image

It was pointed out that the journal caps are in the incorrect order and that the inlet caps are on the exhaust cam – as marked by the E on the camshaft.

In fact this is incorrect – the caps were in the correct order but that is not a letter E it is the number 3 and that is definitely the inlet camshaft as it has the notch in the end to accept the distributor. The exhaust camshaft has a number 4 on it in the same position.

Below shows the excerpt from the BGB stating the inlet camshaft has the slit in it.

Image

Below is a picture of the camshaft showing the slit and the misleading letter E.

Image

So this is reassuring in that there was not as big an error in the placement of the caps as once thought.

I carried out a final series of measurements using the plastigauge with the caps on the correct camshaft and in the correct order.

Image

These are mostly within specification so I have decided to go ahead with this head.

Also of note the Carrilo rods arrived so I have dropped these and the CP pistons up to the engine builder.

Image
Image
Image

I hope to have the engine and cylinder head back in a couple of weeks and I can get started with the fitting.

I’ve also ordered some parts to get the rear of the car sorted. Polybushes for the hub, arms and subframe as well as the spherical bearings for the arms that need them. I also ordered up brake pad pins and calliper refurb kit to sort the rear brake callipers. Lastly I have touched up the TEIN suspension with paint where they had rusted a little.

I hope to have some good updates in a couple of weeks once the engine is back.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:55 am 
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Another small update.

The block has been recieved back to the engine builder from its machine work. He is just waiting on the crank now and can then build up the bottom end. It looks like I should have the bottom end back in about 2-3 weeks.

I also have sourced a set of HKS 264 camshafts which will be going in the cylinder head (hooray I hear some of you cry), I should have that back in another couple of weeks as well.

I've located a garage that will press the old bushes and spherical joints out of the subframe and arms that I will be refurbishing, once thats done I can have them powdercoated and the new bushes put in.

Image

I also picked up some new brake pad pins and a refrub kit for the rear calipers.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 9:13 pm 
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Next update:

The new subframe bushes have arrived:

Image

Once I have got the last two trailing arms I will be taking the subframe, diff carrier and arms to TGT to have the old bushes pressed out then have them powder coated before the new poly stuff is fitted back in.

On the engine bottom end front the machining on the engine has now been completed and its looking very tidy:

Image
Image

The pistons and rods have now been checked and matched and most of the sundry parts obtained for the internals:

Image
Image

The upper sump has also had the side sections relieved to allow clearance for the ARP hardware fastening the journal caps.

Image

I also dropped the HKS 264 Camshafts down to the cylinder head place ready for fitting, I need to send the place the new valve stem seals from my gasket kit when it arrives, all being well I should have the head and engine back by mid May.

Image

Finally I also ordered the remaining lower arm and fig8’s and crush tubes for the superstrut to complete the set of those as well as a full engine gasket kit, some SARD 800’s, new water and oil pumps.

I hopefully plan to start taking the car apart next weekend, and I have some research to do now on headgaskets and ECU’s. :)

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:40 pm 
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Hi Mike,

What's the matt red paint on the block?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:50 pm 
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Kris, being an old salt I thought you'd recognise that red paint..... :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:31 am 
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Hi Kris,

In all honesty I do not know. Don took these pictures at the weekend whilst visiting his build. (thanks Don! :) )

I would guess that it's some sort of anti corrosion paint.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:40 am 
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Is it the red dye from Magnafluxing the block?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:28 pm 
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Diceman wrote:
Is it the red dye from Magnafluxing the block?
Specsaver Alert!............seriously tho, as Mike says, it looks like some sort of red oxide type of paint presumably to inhibit corrosion. Its definitely not dye.

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
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2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:27 pm 
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TrackToyFour wrote:
Diceman wrote:
Is it the red dye from Magnafluxing the block?
Specsaver Alert!............seriously tho, as Mike says, it looks like some sort of red oxide type of paint presumably to inhibit corrosion. Its definitely not dye.


And I thought I did well to get the colour right :-)

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 12:29 am 
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Sorry JP, that was a bit cruel of me I thought (for a fleeting instant!) I guess you had help.

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 12:22 pm 
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Looks like boggo red oxide primer to me.
Used to be lead based in the good ole days of sending yer kids oop t'chimney


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 10:39 pm 
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Woohoo!

I have the bottom end back from the engine builders.

Will post some piccies up at the weekend. :)

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Last edited by Sirius on Wed May 30, 2012 10:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 10:42 pm 
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Small update on the build.

I haven’t had the head back yet as after chatting with the engine builder and the head guys and finding out that the valve springs were a little worn we are installing new HKS valve springs in the head:

Image

I also managed to pick up some HKS cam pulleys for a very good price 2nd hand. They have a few cosmetic marks but appear to be in fine condition otherwise:

Image

These are the new pulleys rather than the old type which were thought to be ‘soft’ after a number of failures.

I also sourced some Sard/Denso 800 injectors which after flow testing have been found to be 860cc:

Image

Onto the chassis I have spent a bit of time stripping the rear of the car down, the ARB is out as is the rear brakes.

The ARB is in quite a poor state and will definitely need powdercoating. The Pins on the brake callipers are also proving to be very difficult to remove.

I now have the subframe and arms ready for powdercoat, the rubber bushes have been removed ready for the new polybushes to be installed.

That’s about it for now :)

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