G'day fellas,
Im going to be keeping the WTA, so i thought i might re-condition it a bit. Some of the steps i followed, were:
1. Clean it out with petrol, i used around 5L of fuel(500ml at a time), put some in, shook it around. There was a massive amount of oil in there, from the blown turbo seals i had.
2. Strip it down, get rid of the rubber mounts, i left on the sensor and plastic bung on it, didnt want to have any leaks, so i just got the painter to cover them up well. Then just take a knife and slip of the "CELICA" pannel on top, its held on by 4 rows of double sided tape, so it will take some time to slip off.
3. Just dropped it off at the painters, $80 and the top got painted. It costed that much due to me scratching the *bleep* out of it trying to take that double sided tape off...so i recommend keeping that on, the painters will have solvents that will slip it right off.
4. get some of the silver insulation tape pictured, a mate is a builder so i just got some off him. Just measure it up, and cut and paste, very simple and easy, took about 1 hour to heat shield the whole thing.



Here are some pics of the WTA after the fresh paint job:



Here is the tape i used to lag it:


After the heat lagging:




All done:





Now to the toys, here are some of the things that have arrived so far...need less to say, im extremley broke....started to catch the train now also
New muffler, 3" inlet, twin out, Straight through..."its a stock car, cunstable":




Tein Superstreet coilovers:








It even came with a whole heap of stickers:



Tein think of everything....even rust proof



The new turbo..Garett GT28RS in .64 housing:






New o2 sensor:


Homemade adpater to fit up the new apexi air filter, a fresh coat of paint and it should look good:




New spark plugs, grade 7, because im planning to run a little more boost, ngk irridum BKE7EIX:



Now a few odds and ends, Alumnium rear diff mount, 3" flex, 3" high-flow cat, toyota oil filter:


Also here are some pics of the front and rear JSpeed Braces:














Still waiting on these things to arrive\pickup, will post up pics soon as they arrive:
Defi BF PSI boost guage and controller*Arrived*
Whiteline rear adjustable sway bar*Arrived*
Fuel filter, New leads, Distributor cap + rotor arm
Tial 38mm External wastegate *Arrived*
ST205 brakes.

Once all the parts arrive, its then towed off to a mates place to get the CT26 to T25 adapter flange made up and the complete 3" turbo back exhuast.


Once all that is completed, I need to look into retro fitting a ST205 53mm Alumnium Koyo radiator and new slimline fans...Might be able to get a PWR to fit, need to get in contact with Dynomatt on toymods to confirm...


man that was a huge post....will keep you guys all updated as it progress, cant wait till the cars on the road, she's been off the road for 2 months now, its painful....


cheers
shane

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Hi.

Nice looking kit, some good choices too..


i am surprised you want to stick with the water to air cooler unit.

The radiated heat transfer form he cylinderhead will be increased when horse power levels increased, this will affect the percentage cooling ratio properties somewhat of the cooler .

I think you may need thicker insulation than just heat tape..


Why not install some proper heat matt ,thicker the better,, its the only stuff that works..


I have loads on this..i done some tests...its not what its seems when it comes to insulation, you need air flow over surfaces, otherwise the heat can not be drawn away.


Jon

_________________
Black UK 96 205 shed with heater full on telemetry.

project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.

Shane some interesting bits of kit there!

I'll be especially interested to hear how you get on with the GT28RS

_________________
Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement

Nice selection indeed........those Tein shocks look very purposeful indeed.
Get some pics up when it's all fitted though........do a before and after for each bit of kit.

Steve

Hi Shane.

I don’t know if this place might help, i expect you know of a few places to buy the wrap from, if not...

The heat mat really works well, i tried a few tape products, but none of them match this stuff..



link to a outfit, your side of the woods.
http://www.naparts.com.au/nappricelist.htm

I would go for the blanket, two layers seems to be best, just tape it around as you did with the tape, with off cuts use on the inside of the heat shield, it work great, vastly helping the performance of the heat shield.

Gets my vote..

Hope this helps..


Jon

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Black UK 96 205 shed with heater full on telemetry.

project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.

How does this heatsheild wrap work to benefit the IC?
I'm new to turbo cars you see so forgive my lack of knowledge.....it seems that if it's that beneficial then even I could do the modification.

Thanks

Steve

If running a top mounted water to air unit, the heat from the cylinder head, exhaust manifold etc, will cause it to warm up a little, the use of a thermal blanket will reduce this, the hole point is to achieve a low charge temp into the engine after its been compressed.

Baking it in a wave of heat from the engine is not a good start.

Reducing radiated heat from engine to the cooler; this should be as low as possible, thus allowing it to work a little more efficient, ever little helps.

Its an easy job, bit like wrapping a parcel up..

I have used it for all sorts of heat shields..

_________________
Black UK 96 205 shed with heater full on telemetry.

project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.

Would Demon Tweeks sell something like that heatsheild wrapping or would you recommend I buy some heatsheild tape and put 2 layers on?

Thanks for the feedback.

Sorry for the slight diversion from the original topic....

demond tweaks a little expensive..

Try theses

http://www.swrmotorsport.com/main/heat_barrier.htm

http://www.merlinmotorsport.com/index.php?cPath=1688_1689

just wrap every thing in it, many times, remember to get some heat foil tape.


make sure its not tight, bit like a gloove fit, loose fit, apart from the areas that have been taped up .


Hope it helps..

_________________
Black UK 96 205 shed with heater full on telemetry.

project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.

That tape isn't going to 'cut the mustard' so to speak. You'll need some 'heavy duty' heat reflecting material ...
See what I meant here - http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483
Gary

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1994 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-Four Group A WRC - running in rebuilt engine....

Thanks for the compliments and advice fellas.


Cheers for the heads up on the tape there data jon and gary. I wasnt quite sure on the tape, but it looked like a quality product so i didnt assume otherwise. I noticed Garys tape is a lot thicker just then.


Thanks for those links to the thermal products, they look the goods. I just did a search on eBay and stumbled across this number: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TURBO-HEAT-SHIEL ... dZViewItem

What do you fellas think about that ? I just need to confirm if its adhesive or not. Thinking about just applying it over the current tape i have put on.

Also im going to making up an alumnium pannel simiar to the setup on puffys car:
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/7518/dscf01632cr.jpg


Cheers
Shane

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My cousin got a heap of work done on the car today, Its nearly ready to go Just have to complete the oil and water lines, then its set to rock and roll

Some details, Its all Stainless pipework, 2 1/2" dumpipe, 38mm ex-wastegate plumbed back into the down pipe, then 2 1/2" into a 3" high-flow cat which is right behind the front subframe, then it will go 3" mandel bent all way back from there.

Here are some pics of the work:












Some pics of it on the Car, Not much clearance between the Ex-wastegate and radiator, So im not sure if i can fit a Koyo 53mm in there still :






Here are some pics with the WTA on it, There is about a 5cm gap between where the original bolts line up for the WTA, and the exhaust manifold still touches the cooler, i need to sort something out there for sure.







The bonnet just closes, and you can see the ex-wastegate from the bonnet vent

Does anyone have any ideas on how i could go about seperating the WTA from the manifold? My cousins thinks i could "dent" that section of the intercooler in, but hopefully i wont have to resort to that. Any ideas fellas?

Cheers
Shane

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Looks very impressive mate.
What kind of gains are you expecting?

Steve

Im not sure mate, a GT28RS hasnt been put on a GT4 as far as i know. It should be better than the stock number anyhow, i made 112kw at all four wheels on 6psi before, in 4th gear. Im going to be running a max of 9 PSI, until i rebuild the engine later on in the year with a HKS 2.2L stroker kit with a fully balanced engine and all the trimmings

_________________

The bonnet just closes, and you can see the ex-wastegate from the bonnet vent

Does anyone have any ideas on how i could go about seperating the WTA from the manifold? My cousins thinks i could "dent" that section of the intercooler in, but hopefully i wont have to resort to that. Any ideas fellas


Hi there dude i've just fitted a new powerflow manafold to my 185cs, and had the same problem with the IC and bonnet.Wat worked for me was to cut as much off the pipe that comes from the IC and goes into the mount on the throtle housing as i could get away with ( should give you about 15mm or so) and then cut the rubber down on the rubber mount that fits that pipe from the IC to the throttle housing (again gives ya about another 10mm or so ). which will bring the IC away from the manafold by about 25mm or so, then i made up some spacers to fit the old braket that holds the IC in place. Then you can cut the spacers until you get the bonnet closed. Not sure if this will help but worked for me.