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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 10:47 pm 
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Leeky you've missed out the large turbo and ecu :)

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:13 pm 
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Meurz wrote:
And an engine per season, if not more. No reliability at all.


Pat's car?

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:32 am 
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Sirius wrote:
Leeky you've missed out the large turbo and ecu :)


lol yep!

There is a lot that i missed off the list like bearings, shells, cams, pump, throttle body.

I was just wondering is there was a basic list somewhere of " for xxxBHP you'll need to rebuild your engine with these uprated parts".

Probably better to buy an engine that already been rebuilt....anyone got one for sale? :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:46 am 
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Leeky wrote:
So for someone who's only been involved in rebuilding one engine in his whole life (a MK3 Supra 1G-GTE), starting from scratch if someone wanted a 500bhp 3SGTE roughly what would be the best formula? Is there a common route to such power?

ST165 Block? (I heard is the strongest of them all?)
ST205/ST215 Head?
Forged Pistons
Forged Rods
Standard Crank ok? (I havent heard of anyone doing in a crank so i cant see the point in the TTE Crank)
800cc injectors?
HKS Steel Headgasket?
Fully balanced assembly?

From what i hear you can make a 500(ish)bhp 3S and with the right clutch you can keep it pleasant to drive still?


My thoughts are the same on this and what I've been shoping for. With the crank I'm going to have it shaven and balanced and destressed along with the pullys and fly at the same time.

Reliable big bhp? I dont think there is such thing but if I use a multi map setting ecu I ca switch between max and say 300bhp for daily use.


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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 2:05 pm 
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Re: PC's 5sgte

Meurz wrote:
And an engine per season, if not more. No reliability at all.



Rene,

My thoughts are that perhaps a built 5sgte to 450 - 500ps specs, will be more resilient to block cracking than say the 3sgte equivalent


Way is see it , reliability is dependent on who builds it, who drives it, the ongoing service & maintenace, ecu mapping and tweeking due to atmospherics






I don't see the logic behind building an engine to 600 hp specs > eg consider the piston ring gaps, bore clearance, and then run it at a level say 400 hp where the heat and expansion issues encountered are half of what it was built for.
>>> slap slap slap Its gonna wear out quick.

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 2:11 pm 
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Gary,

My thoughts are that if you spec the components for a higher BHP you are hopefully taking that reliability issue out of the equation.

My new engine is using Carillo Rods and CP pistons these are certainly capable of supporting a large amount of HP however I had a long chat with the engine builder and the engine is being built for circa 370 ish bhp which is what I am after.

I totally agree that if you build it with clearances for 600 then it is not going to last very long if you run it at a lower power.

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 2:14 pm 
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Ray - something that my engine builder suggested is that the different parts of the rotating assembly not all be balanced together:

On my car the crank, rods and pistons are being balanced as one piece and the flywheel and clutch balanced seperately that way if the flywheel or clutch needs replacing it doesn't affect the whole engine assembly. Seems logical to me.

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 6:06 pm 
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Sirius wrote:
Ray - something that my engine builder suggested is that the different parts of the rotating assembly not all be balanced together:

On my car the crank, rods and pistons are being balanced as one piece and the flywheel and clutch balanced seperately that way if the flywheel or clutch needs replacing it doesn't affect the whole engine assembly. Seems logical to me.


That is a fantastic tip thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:29 pm 
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I think its called a balance to zero approach when everything is individually done

I must admit I was always a balance everything man but hearing this is how JEMS does it I do think it makes huge sense
Presumably for the first build there might be a full balance in very high output engines just to make certain


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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:51 pm 
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Yep that's the one Steve.

Yes would make sense for higher performance motors.

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:08 pm 
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emicen wrote:
Meurz wrote:
And an engine per season, if not more. No reliability at all.


Pat's car?

Indeed.

I agree Gary, just saying that although Pat is running insane power, he goes through a lot of engines as well (from what I've read).

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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Car Model: ST185
5S block, 3S crank for oversquare 87.5x86.

Doesn't put too much stress on rotating componentry at high revs and you can use forged 3S rods which are cheaper than the pauter 5S rods. Requires 87.5mm ATS pistons and ATS MHG.
Chuck in some 264 camshafts, 800CC injectors and upgrade fuel pump and regulator. Put a decent turbo on and you have power with a measure of reliability against det.

5S block is stronger, but will require some modifications, namely some new bolt holes and removal of webbing on back of block to allow for transfer case. Run 3S water pump or maintain use of 5S (not sure on this part of swap or the oil pump)

Can use 3rd gen 3S sump, with baffle plate. If 2.2, then remove baffle plate. No oil squirters though, so may have to get engineer to install, but no biggy if you don't run oil squirters.

Currently this is in the 'parking lot' of plans, so haven't been through it yet, but it may come to be.. if I ever get there haha.

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