Hi guys,

Not had much free time to tinker wiv the car, but managed to get some more done today and take the car out for a short run again.

So i have a couple of concerns, one is that it has a slight judder/hesitation through the revs, mostly felt when off boost/building boost, so wondering what it could be?

The other, which could be the reason for the hesitation i guess, is from where i have the BOV/DV fitted it vents though the bonnet vent, which i have removed the backing from. When lifting off after hard acceleration it appears to vent vapour when releasing the pressure?? It does not hit the windscreen at all so i am guessing its not oil and it appears to be evaporating as soon as its vented pretty much, so i'm guessing water?? Is it possible for the CC to be leaking into the intake? Or are there other possibilities? Or is it normal (doubt it).

I have fitted a boost gauge, MBC, Air filter and blocked off the tvsv. Boost is showing 1bar on my gauge and car feels reasonably quick. Does the way i have routed my pipes around the intake look correct? I know i need to either take a hose back to the intake for the catch tank or get a breather filter for it, but i used that to connect to one of the inlet/outlets to fit the DV. so is what i have done ok? See pic and hopefully you'll get what i mean lol.

Cheers for any help you can give people:)

Did it judder before you carried out the mods? What fuel are you using?

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Hi, yes it did judder before but its just more noticeable now, as its trying to rev more freely.

I think the car had lay for a while because of the core plug problem, maybe a few months as its mot'd till mid November and i got it with the leak on the 29th April. The leak is fixed, but been having a problems with the cooling system as its defo had radweld or similar put through it in a vain attempt to fix the leak.

It prolly needs a service but dont want to spend money pointlessly if there is something majorly wrong with the car.

If it had a cracked block, would the power still be pretty good? Or would it be *bleep*? I only ask as ever since that has been mentioned i've been worried about it being that, but it runs like a *bleep* cat at idle and still has decent power, so i cant see it being that.

Oh and I have no idea what fuel is in it, ave not put any in it yet lol.

Oh and I have no idea what fuel is in it, ave not put any in it yet lol.

Check your ignition system particularly the rotor arm. I had a hesitation that eventually turned into a misfire that turned out to be a loose rotor arm.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

ok thanx mate i'll do that, cheers. Prolly gonna gut the cat too as i've read that once they have sat for a while they tend to not flow very well afterwards. Its not going on the road anyway so it will let it breathe more easily too.

Thanx again for the advice, if anyone has anymore things to suggest, especially the vapour coming out of the DV, that would be great

Do be careful if you decide to gut the cat. The dust from the cat matrix is quite nasty.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

cool, i'll wear a dust mask when am going to do it mate cheers

It is possible for the chargecooler to leak internally as I've known one do it. You would soon see loss of chargecooler coolant though.

Cracked blocks tend not to affect power much until they become really bad. Symptoms are as per headgasket - blowing the coolant out especially under boost. Watch for overheating whenever you put your boot down.

IMO let it do a few gentle miles to settle in and use the stale fuel, then reset the ECU & try again with new fuel (v-power) and see if you still have hesitation.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Ok, i'll try that mate, thanx.

There is no white smoke from the exhaust at all, so hopefully its not the worst case scenario. Would a bore scope show the crack if there was one? Or a simple compression test maybe show a drop in one of the cylinders?

Is there not a chance that a con rod will bend if the block is cracked? after all it would be similar to sucking water in through the intake. As in, water getting into the cylinder.

And there is a test for CO in the cooling system that will point to cracked block too isnt there? Anyone know what its called?

Really want to get a definitive answer about the engine as i have bought quite a bit of stuff that am not going to put into it or onto it until i find out if its worth doin.

Cheers John

A hydrocarbon test will give some information. As will a leak down test.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Thanx mate I'll look into what's involved in those two.

Ave seen a vid online that shows someone using an air compressor down the spark plug hole wiv the rad cap off lookin for bubbles in it to test for cracked block, and I've got a compressor so will prolly try that.

I'll let use know how I get on, planning on tryin that tom

Thanx mate I'll look into what's involved in those two.

Ave seen a vid online that shows someone using an air compressor down the spark plug hole wiv the rad cap off lookin for bubbles in it to test for cracked block, and I've got a compressor so will prolly try that.

I'll let use know how I get on, planning on tryin that tom

You say theres moisture or mist coming coming from the bov when it vents to atmosphere, whats your water level doing? is it remaining constant? as nibbles says,a tiny leak in the charge cooler could do that and because its small it is possible that you wouldn't notice it elsewhere really.the bov venting to atmosphere would just blow the moisture out with the pressure.

As for the cracked block, are you on about the cylinder liner or crank case? would a block crack show up on a compression test??? assuming your rings are good.i would of though that you would have to block the vent and pressurise but can't imagine it would do your seals/gaskets much good.