So had the car mapped yestaday with ryan from 2bar tuning.
We installed the apexi fc with commander and then he set up the ignition, timing and fueling all perfectly. Found out that as well as car previously over fuelling, the timing was very badley out by 3° and he said it was basicly detonating!! He was very suprised that engine was still in one piece!!

Anyhow after a few runs car made a good 245fwhp and 188.3whp with nearly 280lbs tourqe!
It would of made slightly more but the engine has 123k and with timing being so out he belives the engine has slight wear, but no where near enough for rebuild.

I'm happy with results as its in safe peramitors and not
creating stress on anything. I'm not going to stretch out for more power now, just concentrate on maintaining car and tidying up a bit. I will be lagging parts and trying to get the air temperatures down, cold air feed/box etc...

Here is a few pics of what cars up to and full spec.

- 205 turbo with straight air intake, large front mount intercooler and bailey dv.
- 3" decat downpipe, 2.5" stainless full exhaust with 5" tail.
- 540cc injectors and adjustable fuel pressure regulator, walbro 255lph in tank fuel pump.
- toyosport alloy catch tank, ash breather filter.
- 1.3mm metal head gasket.
- helix organic clutch, 320mm vented discs, ferrodo
ds2000 pads.
- 225/18 40 kuhmo eccasta tyres.
- kyb shocks with eibach springs, white line antiroll bars.
- fully polybushed.
- battery in boot.
- apexi power fc
- aem tru boost controller
- oil temp, pressure and water gauges.
- missile switch to engage 1.1 bar scramble boost for 25 seconds.
- air intake temperature gauge.
- apexi timer.
- ally radiator

A reasonable result I think, and a sensible spec for a car that shouldn't blow up within a few weeks (ahem).

What boost was it running for the 245BHP ?

I'm guessing from the shape of the curve that the 185 cams are probably restricting the top end a bit, still the torque figure should make a very responsive and drivable car.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Yeah I did think that it would run more hp as doesn't seem to be a massive increase over standard hp.

Boost is at 1.1 on setting A. Setting B runs 0.8 and that is what I drive it with, but I have scramble boost which enables 1.1 at the flick of a switch for overtaking etc.
Pulls well and is smooth and constant.

_________________
1998 ford st24, 186hp 2.5 v6- sold
1997 bmw e36 318ti, mint hellrot red- sold
1992 celica gt4 st185- td04 340hp/330lbs
1998 mercedes E280- sold
1998 pug 1.9 td- mile muncher!
1993 rx7 542hp savage monster!!
2007 BMW 335i- in the shop gettin built!!

nice work jon

Where is the scramble switch located Jon?

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

Hi Jon,

245 @ 1.1 bar

Not beating around the bush, in all honesty, i think that is a very average result for the mods Your engine is tired...

I would have expected at least another 30 - 40+hp

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ST165 turbo 4WD
ST185 GT-FOUR RC Carlos Sainz Limited Edition 825•5000
ST185 turbo 4WD Carlos Sainz Limited Edition 2541•5000

Yeah thats what ryan said, the timing was so badley out it's tired engine out.

I put scramble switch by gear knob, it's the big red one in picture by apexi commander.

_________________
1998 ford st24, 186hp 2.5 v6- sold
1997 bmw e36 318ti, mint hellrot red- sold
1992 celica gt4 st185- td04 340hp/330lbs
1998 mercedes E280- sold
1998 pug 1.9 td- mile muncher!
1993 rx7 542hp savage monster!!
2007 BMW 335i- in the shop gettin built!!

I'm wondering if a cam is a notch out. Tired engines tend to lose bottom end more than top.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

How can I tell if the cams are out, and if so is it easily rectified?

_________________
1998 ford st24, 186hp 2.5 v6- sold
1997 bmw e36 318ti, mint hellrot red- sold
1992 celica gt4 st185- td04 340hp/330lbs
1998 mercedes E280- sold
1998 pug 1.9 td- mile muncher!
1993 rx7 542hp savage monster!!
2007 BMW 335i- in the shop gettin built!!

Silicone hose out of turbo has a nasty kink.

Also how is scramble switch wirred in and to what?

_________________
98 Celica GT4 ST205
Full forged rebuild with Wiesco pistons, Crower rods, mildly ported head, 264/272 HKS cams, FMIC, PFC Pro, GT35 BB turbo, turbo back 3" system.
Currently running 1.6bar/520+bhp

As a comparison a 205 would be around 300fwhp+ at that boost. The only real diference between yours and a stock 205 is cams which wont make the 60hp difference and with a mappable ecu it should be there easy...

As a reference i have a stock 185 with just hybrid and exhaust upgrade and front mount @.9bar it is making 300fwhp and has done as a daily driver for about 6yrs now..

As stated above the kink straight out of turbo is a bottle kneck in your intake system and could be causing your low ish power.

What were compression tests like before they mapped it? Did they smoke leak test it also?

If your cam is a tooth out it will need a remap to be safe once you reset it.. To check put it to TDC and remove rocker cover you should see the notches line up on cambelt end of cams. They can be slightly out 1/2 notch but if its way out it needs belt off and then re timing..

He didnt do compression test. I have no clue how to do all that with cams.
Scramble switch is a feature that the aem tru boost has. It comes with wires ready, you just need a switch to operate it. Also have a warning light that I've put above gauge that lights up if boost hits 1.2! Controller is good, can even adjust crack pressure to help spool up time.

I will sort out kink when it stoppes raining and I dont have to swim over to car!

_________________
1998 ford st24, 186hp 2.5 v6- sold
1997 bmw e36 318ti, mint hellrot red- sold
1992 celica gt4 st185- td04 340hp/330lbs
1998 mercedes E280- sold
1998 pug 1.9 td- mile muncher!
1993 rx7 542hp savage monster!!
2007 BMW 335i- in the shop gettin built!!

Did Charlie give you a plot which has boost pressure on it?

If so did it maintain boost across the rev range

Re checking cam timing, there are some pretty pictures here to show you the cam timing marks under the cam cover

http://wiki.gt4dc.co.uk/index.php?title=Change_cambelt

You can also try the shorter version -
Remove spark plug nearest cam cover. Straighten out a coat hanger and stick it down said plug hole. Rotate engine BY HAND until the wire reaches Max height. This is much easier with all the plugs removed btw. Either stick the car in 4th gear and push it or put a spanner on the crank pulley nut and rotate it

You should then find that if you look at the crank pulley you can see a mark by the plastic lump on the lower cambelt cover. Line this mark up with the 0 line on the plastic cover
Remove top cambelt cover and look at the pulleys. Both should have clear dots stamped in them. Both dots should be at 12 o'clock (remember the engine is canted though!)
On the 205 the tin plate behind the can pulleys has markings stamped on it to make this easier, I don't know if the 185 is the same


I have a snorkel and fins you're welcome to borrow and a spear gun if it doesn't go to plan

The 185 has markings above the pulleys similar to 205. I don't think it has the notches in the cams though, so would therefore require the top belt cover off.

BE WARNED. any changes you do which improve efficiency will inherantly weaken the mixture making it unsafe. If you are going to try tweaking, invest in a wideband AFR gauge so you can ensure mixture stays rich enough and allow you to map the mixture yourself. I've just bought one of these for my 205 to set up my link ecu:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120928597510? ... 1497.l2649

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Thinking about you saying timing was out id say your intake cam maybe a tooth out.

When cambelt is changed you usually dont touch the distributor so if cambelt was a tooth out it would throw out timing.. Its a fairly straight forward check no real mech skills required.

If it is out leave it until you can afford mapping then get it re mechanically timed just before. If you change it now without re mapping your probably going to DET and go lean on the mixture..