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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 4:07 pm 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:43 pm
Posts: 998
Location: NLD
Car Model: None
I'm a civvy so my deployments are normally quite short lol, but building a house as well and trying to do as much as I can myself, it takes a while..

Anyway.

Another thing I don't like about the original design of the car is the way the fuel and brake hardlines run under the car. They are protected by plastic covers, which also happen to clog up with all kinds of crap over the years. The result is another typical 185 rust area, my car being no exception. Look, there's even growing a tree:

Image

The same goes for the fuel tank straps, I'm not a fan of the design. If your car has seen salty winter roads in its life, they are probably crusty and will break when you try to get the tank out. The fuel tank design, formed to fit under the spare wheel tub, also allows for moisture to collect on top of it. You've guessed it, another place for rust to form easily. So I decided to move everything inside the car. Not only the lines, but also the tank. I want to keep the bottom of the car as clean and smooth as possible.

So I went for an FIA FT3 spec ATL 60 L fuel cell. Slightly smaller than the stock tank, but still large enough for a decent range (road use). It is filled with foam baffling for slosh and explosion suppression and is equipped with 2 fuel pickup points. I will be using it with addition of a surge tank. My first plan was to cut out the boot floor and weld in a tub for the cell to sit in.

Image

However, I couldn't stop thinking about what if.. a car would smash into the rear of my car, or I went *bleep* backwards into a barrier/wall? Fuel cells normally are fitted in a separate tray hanging from the chassis in similar layouts, but would still cause a mess with the large hole in the boot floor. A few weeks later, I saw this on tv. Listen especially to the commentary at 3:15 and from 5:20 onwards:

http://youtu.be/tcjOphNAExU

Seeing this confirmed the plan to move the fuel cell forward, to within the roll cage structure. I'll probably place it off centre to the passenger side, to balance out yours truly a bit.

Image

Together with the cell I ordered an FIA approved aluminium container for the cell (which also offers UV protection), filler cap (to be mounted in or around the passenger side rear quarter window) and fuel level reader which is supposed to be able to feed my STACK display with data (always unknown for some reason, lol).

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René - Carlos Sainz 2433•5000
Turbocelica.nl | ST185 CS restoration and full rebuild

If it ain't broken.. it soon will be


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:29 pm 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:43 pm
Posts: 998
Location: NLD
Car Model: None
Next up, I made a start hacking into the wiring looms. Since a lot of electrical stuff will be deleted, relocated or modified, a lot of wiring can go as well. Less is more. I thought about building a new loom myself, but Toyota did a great job and I think a neatly insulated OEM loom looks great as well. What you see below is the main interior wiring loom on the attic floor, the way it sits in the car. The large blue plastic part on the left lives behind the dashboard. The branch towards the centre of the picture (along the pliers) is the centre console (HVAC, radio, up to hand brake). In front of the home trainer you see the ABS ECU. That entire branch is ABS related and crosses the floor pan just before the rear seats. The stuff in front of the ATL fuel cell container is for rear lights, antenna, fuel pump, etc. Next to the ATL container you can see the FRP hatch, btw:

Image

If you check out the Toyota wiring diagrams, it looks like this:

Image

I have removed the following wiring, connectors and components:

A37 ABS ECU (L/B)
A38 ABS ECU (L/B)
A39 ABS Speed Sensor Rear LH (L/B)
A40 ABS Speed Sensor Rear RH (L/B)
A41 Auto Antenna Control Relay and Motor
A43 ABS Deceleration Sensor (All–Trac/4WD)
B7 Back Door Courtesy SW (L/B)
D8 Door Courtesy Light LH
D9 Door Courtesy Light RH
D10 Door Courtesy SW LH
D11 Door Courtesy SW RH
D16 Door Speaker LH
D17 Door Speaker RH
F14 Front Tweeter (Speaker) LH
F15 Front Tweeter (Speaker) RH
I13 Interior Light
L4 Luggage Compartment Light (L/B)
P4 Power Seat SW
R14 Rear Speaker LH
R15 Rear Speaker LH
R16 Rear Speaker RH
R17 Rear Speaker RH
R18 Rear Tweeter (Speaker) LH
R19 Rear Tweeter (Speaker) RH
R24 Rear Wiper Motor and Relay (L/B)
R25 Remote Control Mirror LH
R26 Remote Control Mirror RH
S11 Sun Roof Control Relay
S12 Sun Roof Control SW and Personal Light
S13 Sun Roof Limit SW
S14 Sun Roof Motor
And the remaining 'combination meter' stuff left behind after installation of the STACK dash display.

The following will be relocated (shortened):

F 18 Fuel Pump (All–Trac/4WD)
F 19 Fuel Sender (All–Trac/4WD)

Instead of just cutting wires and creating a ghetto short circuit fire hazard, I've use lock picks to depin the connectors for an ultra clean result. It also was the only straightforward way to splice all surplus wiring out imo - just follow the loom from the actual component back to the control button, power source, ECU, etc:

Image

ABS wiring gone:

Image

Some of the interior wiring is connected to the main engine, or engine bay loom (for instance: AFM to ECU) as well. There are 3 main looms in the car. In order not to get confused later on, I decided to take the related stuff out the other looms right away. It may look like chaos, but with wiring diagrams on the computer screen, some music and a drink I actually enjoyed doing this job! Welcome to the jungle:

Image

I will make a complete list of everything I have removed later on, but here's the mandatory OCD overview of what I've taken out so far. Top/right block is from the interior loom, left column is from the engine bay loom and the lower row all comes from the engine harness itself:

Image

What you see in the photo above is over 11 kg of wiring and components with (a little bit) more to come. Weight removal overview from the start of this thread:

Sound deadening from interior: 10+ kg
Underseal from bottom (more to come): 6 kg
Carbon bonnet (difference from stock): 10 kg
Carbon doors: TBD
Carbon mirrors (difference from stock): 2+ kg
Double plating: 9 kg
Electrical wiring: 11+ kg

Total removal so far (ex doors): 48+ kg.

Oh, add another 15+ kg for the sunroof assy! That's well enough to compensate for the roll cage already! Rene happy. :)

Image

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René - Carlos Sainz 2433•5000
Turbocelica.nl | ST185 CS restoration and full rebuild

If it ain't broken.. it soon will be


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:14 am
Posts: 3265
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
Brilliant stuff Rene! :D

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1996 ST205 UK


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:06 am
Posts: 4743
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Very well organised Rene. Do you want a job as crew chief on track toy? :lol:

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:52 pm 
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Group N
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Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2012 8:31 am
Posts: 332
Location: Wiltshire
Car Model: ST205
Another fantastic project thread, thanks for posting :D

Just wondering what you are going to do with it when it is finished?

Rally, track days??

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:37 am 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:43 pm
Posts: 998
Location: NLD
Car Model: None
Sirius wrote:
Brilliant stuff Rene! :D

Thanks Mike! 8)

TrackToyFour wrote:
Very well organised Rene. Do you want a job as crew chief on track toy? :lol:

Where can I sign, sir? You know, I'm also available for adoption if I can drive it as well! :D

NoGT4 wrote:
Another fantastic project thread, thanks for posting :D

Just wondering what you are going to do with it when it is finished?

Rally, track days??

You're welcome. It's the least I can do after lurking in so many other build threads. I hope this is my turn to inspire other people/builds by sharing background info on my plans and choices.
I'm building it for track days, club meetings, morning drives, road trips and scaring elderly people. It should stay streetable and thus road legal.

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René - Carlos Sainz 2433•5000
Turbocelica.nl | ST185 CS restoration and full rebuild

If it ain't broken.. it soon will be


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:38 am 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:43 pm
Posts: 998
Location: NLD
Car Model: None
Might as well fabricate another update now I'm on a roll!

For several years now, I have been investigating sequential gearboxes and shifters. Shifting an I-pattern is faster, reduces the chance of misshifts and is easier in hot track action as you have to concentrate less on what gear you're in. This is often helped by a big *bleep* gear indicator in your face. None of them are available off the shelf for the ST185 though. Having a custom sequential gearbox developed turned out a little expensive, so I contacted Ikeya Formula in my best Japanese (thanks Google Tlanslate), to ask if they would be interested in developing a Cerica GT-Four specific Sequen shifter as next best option.

Quote:
Dear Mr. van Meurs:

Thank you for recent email.

At this time, we do not have plans to develop a sequential shifter for Toyota Celica GT-Four ST185 (RC).
The development process can take up to 3~5 years and the development costs can be over 3,000,000 Japanese yen.

Nevertheless, we appreciate your interest in our products.

Best regards.

*************************************************
IKEYA FORMULA Co., Ltd.
Keiko Ikeya
ikeya-f@ikeya-f.co.jp
formula@ikeya-f.co.jp
http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp
*************************************************

However, a few people have modified Ikeya shifters (for an Evo) to fit Celica GT-Fours. One of them being Adrian Smith of Fensport (UK). You might have seen his blue eleventy thousand hp 4wd gen 7 Celica on the net. He actually uses an Ikeya Sequen shifter in his Time Attack monster and when he came over to race it in the Netherlands I talked to him about pros and cons of the Ikeya shifter. Long story short: He confirmed what I later read on several forums as well: It's a bit of a hit and miss. Besides required adjustment now and then (according to Adrian) I've found out that a lot of people experience misshifts (ending up in neutral), or hitting 3rd instead of 5th. Not exactly what I'm after.

Upon further research I came across KAPS Transmissions (Czech Republic/Australia). They make serious WRC hardware and also offer the SSS drive sequential shifting system which in theory looks a lot like the Ikeya shifter, but is equipped with an electromagnetic shift booster that apparently increases shifting precision and smoothness. But more important: They do custom setups as well, as long as the transmission/shift layout is similar to the later Mitsubishi Evo series. Which happens to be the case. :mrgreen: I contacted them and a lot of e-mails later I sent them money and measurements of the shifter, cable travel and bowden movement, etc of my specific car. A few weeks later I received this custom specced shifter with which I chose their medium sized gear indicator (with dimmer) and optional (unpainted) carbon *bleep* lever:

Image

The little aluminium lever is the lockout which you have to press in order to shift to neutral or reverse. This way an enthusiastic downshift session doesn't end in tears when you hammer it out of a corner. I might shorten it later, it looks like you might grab it when you don't plan to. Maybe not, I'll have to look into it later. The gear indicator should ideally be placed in plain sight to get the most of it. I know the TTE works Corolla WRCs have it like this:

Image

So I took my Dremel and carefully cut out a new opening in my SARD carbon STACK panel which turned out like this (indicator is held on with tape here, I will mount it level):

Image

And then it was time to fire it up and play, I mean test it! 8)

http://youtu.be/QG7Lu-n8q8E

I officially can't wait to drive my car again now. It will be so different and intense! I actually found out a Dutch Time Attack Evo is running the same SSS drive kit as well, check it out:

http://youtu.be/mi-mEbYXG9g

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René - Carlos Sainz 2433•5000
Turbocelica.nl | ST185 CS restoration and full rebuild

If it ain't broken.. it soon will be


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:25 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2010 4:05 am
Posts: 207
Location: Germany
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
AHHHHH, You can´t post this ! You´re making me want to have it too !!!!!!!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:59 pm
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I'm speechless Rene! Very very nice! :shock:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 10:25 pm 
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WRC
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Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 6:51 pm
Posts: 1397
Location: Austria
Car Model: None
Hi,

absolutely great, can't can wait for a feedback 8)

greetz

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street legal?.....perhaps in tschibuti


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:05 pm 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:43 pm
Posts: 998
Location: NLD
Car Model: None
XLarge wrote:
AHHHHH, You can´t post this ! You´re making me want to have it too !!!!!!!!!

Sorry! :mrgreen:

gt-four.info wrote:
I'm speechless Rene! Very very nice! :shock:

Thank you. :D

Sunny wrote:
Hi,

absolutely great, can't can wait for a feedback 8)

greetz

Me neither Sunny, but the first test drive is still a few days away! :mrgreen:

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René - Carlos Sainz 2433•5000
Turbocelica.nl | ST185 CS restoration and full rebuild

If it ain't broken.. it soon will be


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:07 pm 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:43 pm
Posts: 998
Location: NLD
Car Model: None
After a special delivery from Don in Le Mans, here's a short update with parts porn:

The plan for my project is to build a new engine from scratch, with (new) OEM and upgraded parts. In order to maintain some reliability, the cooling system requires special attention and where reasonably possible, everything will be overengineered. I want the car to be responsive, so a medium size turbo and lightweight moving parts are preferred. Finally, as 3S-GTE engines are known to fail under a lot of boost, I won't be shooting for a new horsepower record. The engine will be controlled by my Autronic SM4 standalone ECU. In order to get a solid base to work from, I went for tough engine internals. A TTE Corolla Grp A WRC crankshaft, Carrillo H-beam connecting rods and CP 86.00 mm pistons:

Image

The cylinder head comes from a new 3rd generation Euro spec crate engine. It has been mounted, but as shown by the paint on the valves has never run. After several years of storage I will disassemble it for a thorough clean and will rebuild it with upgraded parts.

Image

Image

Since I'm going to run a front mounted intercooler, I decided to change to a side feed inlet manifold. This way the 'cold' intercooler pipe can be kept further away from the turbo heat easier. The Toyota Caldina GT-Four came with one as standard and it is a bolt-on upgrade for a gen 3 cylinder head. Not pictured, but included in the purchase were a matching Caldina throttle body and several sensors.

Image

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René - Carlos Sainz 2433•5000
Turbocelica.nl | ST185 CS restoration and full rebuild

If it ain't broken.. it soon will be


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:14 am
Posts: 3265
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
Looks like all the ingredients for a brilliant engine! :D

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1996 ST205 UK


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:06 am
Posts: 4743
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Rene, if you are looking to upgrade the head ask Mike about the O/S Ferrea valve conversion...... :lol: Just make sure you duck!

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:36 am 
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WRC
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Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 6:51 pm
Posts: 1397
Location: Austria
Car Model: None
Hi,

nice crank 8)
i'am using the same rod piston combo, hope they last long :)

EFR, rene :)
my attendion was the same, i also was trying to use a medium turbo but with quick spool for maximum driveability

greetz

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