my bc coilovers now have adjustable top mounts though to be honest my rear camber was never an issue due to the relatively small drop. i was considering a couple of degrees neg camber all round for next track day, any opinions?


cheers

_________________
FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

What I do not get is the adjustment and what difference it makes?

I must be missing something?

As the anti roll bar is free to move in the mounting bushes, if it is set on the high, middle or low setting,
the relative position between the rear wheels is going to be the same?
and therefore have no effect at all.

So, what am I missing?

_________________
[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

OK, I think I have just answered my own question after looking at some
pictures of how they fit.

I first thought the ARB hung downwards so adjustment would have little effect, but it seems they are more horizontal?

So the further to the end, the more leverage, and hence more flex in the bar.
Closer to the mount point, less leverage, and hence stiffer.

Seems logical now

Assuming that is the correct reasoning?

_________________
[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

Phil,
You're thinking about it wrong

Think of the ARBas a U shape. The bottom of the U goes across the car with the "verticals" facing the rear bumper. It pivots arount the bottom of the U
That the adjustment does is allow you to move the dropping attachment point forwards and backwards on the verticals
Moving them back and fore changes the length of the levers and hence changes the effect of the ARB
When adjusted to the full rear position a deflection applied to one wheel is applied to the other wheel with a long lever -
hence high force
When adjusted to the full front position a deflection to one wheel is applied to the other wheel with a short lever - hence low force
Note this ignores the rotational stiffness of the Arab but you get the general idea


40mm lowering is relatively small . It getting on for a third of the available travel

I think I posted again while you were typing.

Cheers for the answer

_________________
[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

i would consideri it relatively small when the ability to lower much further is there. i am comparing this to my jdm hondas of old mind you

_________________
FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

Yeah 40mm is a pretty substantial drop on a GT4, will certainly change the geometry angles substantially.

_________________
GT4 no 10 - I must be mad :help:

^^^Click the banner for my Black Treacle project thread ^^^

Now back home and mapped to 531bhp & 411lb/ft - that's enough power for now!

If I lopped 1/3 of your legs off would you consider yourself mildly lowered?

if you chopped anything off my legs i wouldn't be impressed to be honest

_________________
FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

Probably be a low down bum

_________________
[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

But I wouldn't have to worry about running away

But in all seriousness
40mm of lowering is quite a lot on a 205. It will have had an effect on rear camber. I don't actually know what figures you end up at but there will be extra negative camber on the rear which isn't on the front making the car a little more understeery than it might be. Quite good for a track day but it'll wear the inner edges on the road. You may well have put a little more toe in on the front too which will have an effect
A four wheel alignment would be sensible - you can't change the rear camber without additional hardware mods (not sure if the BC came with adjustable topmounts) but you could check where you are and possibly add some toe settings to improve handling even more
If you have adjustable top mounts then a full alignment to tweak camber and tow both ends could reap huge rewards

because i have had a four wheel alignment done already, im reluctant to add any toe in for the track. camber is easy to reset back once off track but toe could be a pain

_________________
FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

What were the numbers from the alignment - I didn't realize you'd already had it done

Most wheel alignment emporiums only check the front toe. If you ask them to do the rear toe they usually claim the adjusters are seized! If you do a search you'll find the thread(s) recounting these horrific tales. As for camber/castor checks.....don't be silly. I have a camber gauge which I use for setting up the Formula Ford but you don't find many of them on the road

_________________
Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

for resetting camber after track time,all i would do is revert top mounts back to their tested position. thats about as technical as you can get with the mk1 eyeball.

i'll dig the alignment results out when im at home this weekend once i leave faslane,if i remember correctly they did do rear toe mind.

_________________
FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185