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Author:  ali86 [ Sun Apr 19, 2015 7:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Imagedone :)

Still yet to make the lower Dash bracket up So ignore that ally pipe at the bottom.

Author:  Treacle [ Mon Apr 20, 2015 5:37 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Looking good, your certainly skilled with all the work you've done

Author:  ali86 [ Mon Apr 20, 2015 3:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Thank you treacle. :)
Guess it's the perks of the place I work but saying that I should've taken my time with some of it and instead learning the hard way of doing things twice and managed everything in order a bit better. This my first and last major project so doubt I'll ever put it into practice again lol.

Author:  ali86 [ Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009


New manifold in progress. Need to work out where my oil coolers Will go ImageImageImage

Thinking possibly under the indicators for the duct but may take brake ducts from there.

Hazard switch needs wiring still but interior is done pretty much. Image

Oh and the ecu interface, oil pressure, oil temp, fuel level sensors for the dash so not quite

Author:  ali86 [ Mon May 18, 2015 9:47 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Haven't really done a lot. Still waiting the manifold.

Had a go at the tracking and setting the camber, I will need to set the ride height again and do it all again as the rear is sitting lower. Unsure whether to offset ride height so it's lower at the front or or set it level, or even leave it. Tracking and front camber went well apart from rear camber, using the whiteline adjustment bolts on the rear shocks can only bAck it off to 2.6 degrees :/ maybe down to being lower than it should be? I'm may use the original bolts and file the hole out instead.

Got the dash talking to the ecu. The voltage reads a little high tho. Think it naturaLly reads a little high from the ecu. Eg 13.1 volts showing, actual voltage is around 12.6. Tried offsetting but just seem to chase it high or low. Need to also set the mileage to 101k as the car it came off is on 54k. Think I'll need to send it off to do that.

Also would anyone know if the speed sensor is a hall effect or vr typesensor? As I've been told if it is a hall effect the signal can be split between the ecu and dash.

Also been running through various ecu sensors and calibrating them. I know people slate omex but it's so simple even I can use it. Nothing special on it. Just does exactly everything I require. For now anyway lol



Author:  Treacle [ Mon May 18, 2015 11:14 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

I slotted my BCs to improve the camber on the rear. Why not consider adjustable top mounts for the rear? I know Tim now sells all his BCs with them fitted, you can only adjust a small amount with the standard strut top, but it's enough to make a difference. Or you can enlarge the hole in the middle of the strut top to allow further adjustment.

Author:  TrackToyFour [ Mon May 18, 2015 11:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Not sure exactly what you mean by the speed sensor. The speed sensor is actually taken off the gearbox but as I've never taken one apart I don't know what it is. If you mean the ABS wheel speed sensors then they are straight magnetic type not Hall sensors. I've bought the MoTeC DMC converters so I get a nice conditioned signal from the sensors for triggering 'stuff'

Author:  ali86 [ Tue May 19, 2015 9:24 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Treacle adjustable topmounts require cutting the strut top to clear.
Going to go with slotting the coilover. Come across another thread "advice on coilovers" that a member has slotted his. Looks like the easier option.

Tracktoyfour. I mean the gearbox speed sensor. Has 5v reference, sigNal and earth if you can tell by the number of that . Also found out the sensor itself pulses 4 times every wheel revolution. So with my tyre circumference it works out 3230 pulses per mile.

I'm guessing the wheel speed sensor you have maybe a vr type. From my understanding you would need a conditioner to change the signal from an analogue signal to a digital "square wave" signal.

Author:  Treacle [ Tue May 19, 2015 10:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Ali that's not completely true, you can set a certain amount of camber on the adjustable too mount prior to fitting. Yes you can't adjust it without removing the strut but it is possible to make some camber improvements through adjustable top mounts without cutting the strut top.

As I say I have slotted my coilovers and been running like that around 3 years now with no problem, though I would still like to take a little more camber off the rear wheels. The best option in my eyes is a combination between slotted coilovers and adjustable top mounts, you gain a bit on both and together could achieve a good camber setting without cutting strut tops.

Author:  ali86 [ Tue May 19, 2015 10:44 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

I didn't know that :) thank you Treacle , that's a good idea. What camber/toe settings are you running our of interest?
Also how does it drive as it is? Are you also on superstut suspension?

Was also thinking of having some offset bushes made for the front
wishbone to increase caster at a later date. But Will see how it drives as it is first.

Author:  TrackToyFour [ Tue May 19, 2015 11:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

If you want to adjust camber the ideal solution is adjustable suspension arms. Obviously with the standard setup the easy option is to fit adjustable top mounts. Fabricating adjustable suspension arms takes some effort but is the better engineering solution.

Author:  ali86 [ Wed May 20, 2015 1:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Tracktoyfour Wouldn't adjust suspensionarms reduce the rear track as well as camber?

Author:  two_OH_five [ Thu May 21, 2015 1:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

It would mean narrowing the track to reduce camber
Given what you're building I'd be reluctant to just slot the coilovers as sticky tyres on a sticky track means huge loads. I'd want to look for an eccentric nut/washer setup similar to the inboard end of the toe adjuster arm

Author:  TrackToyFour [ Thu May 21, 2015 9:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Good point about the suspension loads. This is something I'm very aware of with 500bhp driving sticky slick tyres onto a race track. JEMS also raised this when they built the car. Slotted mounts probably wouldn't last five minutes. Whilst road tyres or road legal tyres like Toyo R888 or Yokohama A048's are unlikely to generate the same loads as slicks they would still put significant loads through the suspension.

Author:  Treacle [ Fri May 22, 2015 12:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 2009

Well I have been running slotted coilovers for about 3 years, with 530bhp for the last year and 400bhp the year before that and a reasonable amount of trackday use on Federal FZ201 semi slicks. They have never moved, not even a little and I have had my suspension altered and checked several times in that period. Also some coilovers actually come with slots from the factory.

Ok I admit this is not race conditions and not full slicks where loads would be more. But it has also seen everyday road use a racecar wouldn't, hitting potholes and raised manhole covers you don't find on a track.

Theory is all very well, but testing proved to me it's perfectly fine. I'm not saying it's the best engineering solution in the world, but what it is is simple, effective and cheap (free). Often things can be over-thought.

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