Hi everyone,

My name is Jason and I am new to the club. I have been looking at a few of the build threads on the forum and thought I would post what my friend and I have been up too lately. My gt4 had been leaking oil from almost everywhere imaginable and the OEM clutch was getting close to needing replacement. The car had around 130,000 Km on it and asides from a downpipe, the car was completely stock down to the original system 10 audio system before the rebuild began.







Tons of oil around the back of the motor





The engine bay was a complete mess from all the oil that had been blown all over the place.



Original clutch with approximately 130,000 km



After spending countless hours in the engine bay with degreaser







Then some undercoating







All was going smoothly with the build until it came time to remove the crank pulley. The first tool we used to hold the pulley broke off the bolts used to fasten it to the pulley. So the next course of action was to drill out the bolts and use an extractor. Easy enough. The problem with that was the extractor bit snapped off inside the broken bolt that we had just drilled out. Finally had to drill and thread 2 new holes in the crank pulley to attach the pulley holder again (this time using stronger screws). This is what the setup looked like to remove the crank bolt. We put a jack under the motor to make sure that we wouldn't damage the threads holding it on the engine stand.



This did the trick



Tearing down the motor







The next big issue was when it came time to remove the head. I only used a 6 point bit instead of the 12 point to take off the head studs. I managed to get all of them off except for 1 of the corner bolts. The bit slipped and I stripped out the head of the bolt Had to get a set of cobalt bits and drill the head of the bolt until it popped.



Tear down continued





pistons out



At this point I sent the block and head out to be machined

While waiting for the machine work to be completed a boost, oil pressure and Innovative LC1 wideband were installed



Next came time to sand blast and paint all the oily and rusty parts


















And this brings me to where I currently left off on the rebuild. I managed to convince my wife to let me have the 17 inch OZ crono rims that were on her st205. The rims were in rough shape so it was time to sand them down and fix the curb rash on them.







That's where the build is for now. Updates to follow

Nice build - one benefit of that oil everywhere is there does not seem to be any signs of rust anywhere!

_________________
GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Nice photo diary Jason The stubborn bolts are a familiar story. Encountered a few myself!

Engine bay cleaned up well. Looks like it has survived well under the oil film. I see you have painted the alternator and inlet manifold. What type of paint did you use?

Good luck with the project and keep us posted on your progress.

_________________
Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Thanks for the responses guys. All I used to paint the parts was over the counter duplicolor paint. Nothing special really. The reason the paint job turned out so well is due to the sandblasting and proper prep work. I am usually in a hurry to paint and it doesn't always have the best outcome. I took my time on these and I am quite happy with the results. The photos are a bit deceiving however. Since the paint has had time to cure it has turned a more gunmetal grey color.

Update:

Picked up my motor from the machine shop over the weekend. Unfortunately it was way too cold over the weekend to spend time in the garage working on it (-46 c with the wind chill). By the end of next weekend I should have made some serious progress on the build. Will update then.

Ouch - that's pretty cold!

Rain and flooding has been the problem over here in the UK lately.

Looking forward to seeing pics of the motor.

_________________
GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Great progress so far. Worth checking the steering rack mounts for cracks while you have access. Easy fix if they have cracked and engine out but nightmare with engine in.

Quick tips : Undoing the crank bolt.

1) Easy way remember to crack it while still in car use gearbox and brakes to stop engine turning or last resort flick with starter motor.
2) if you forget (1) Get a 1cm square piece of iron bar sharpen one end to a V then bend 90 degrees about an inch or so from that end so you have a long "L". This will then hook into flywheel teeth and you can wedge it against one of the studs on block to stop it turning.

Just finished my build and had the nervous first start but all good so far

Where are the pics!?!

_________________
GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Yea checking the steering rack mounts was one of the first things I looked at once the motor was out. Thankfully they seem to be in good condition. We had that issue with the mounts on my buddies CS RC 185. We ended up needing to weld up a sizeable crack on one of his mounts.

Normally I would have just tried to remove or at least loosen the crank bolt with the engine still in the car...however it totally slipped my mind haha. Too excited with the project I suppose Those are some pretty good tips to keep in mind though. Hopefully I wont need to be removing my crank pulley any time soon though.

I would also be interested to see some photos from your build. Do you have a thread?

So now that it was actually warm enough to go into the garage this weekend I was able to get a bit of work done on the motor.
Managed to get the oil pump, oil pick up and the front and rear main seals installed.











All the replacement seals



Oil pickup installed (Sorry for the blurry picture)



At this point I went to install the oil pan. To my surprise it didn't fit properly anymore. The back of the pan was hitting the ARP main studs that were installed. I didn't realize that the aftermarket studs weren't compatable with the stock oil pan. After a quick google search I found out that this was a common issue with the rev 2 motors when fitted with ARP mains. At least it is a simple solution. Just need to make relief's in the stock pan.





Oil pan has been marked out for where the relief's need to be made. Now I just need to get someone with a welder to give me a hand.



At this point I left the motor for the time being and finished up the wiring harness



I have decided that I want to relocate the battery to the boot to make room for piping for a fmic down the road and a better air intake. I set off making a trunk piece so I could have a flat surface to mount the battery box. Just need to get some carpet stuck onto the panel.



That's all for now. More updates to follow.

Interesting point about the ARP studs and the oil pan issue.
I had exactly the same issue with my build and a Moroso Oil Pan.
A modification (cut out and weld new piece in providing clearance) to the oil pan was the solution I went with.

_________________
Vice Chairman
1990 White UK Celica ST185 - Project DTM
1997 Cream BMW R1200C (as seen in James Bond "Tomorrow Never Dies")
2005 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sovereign AWD Automatic
Blood Bikes - https://www.freewheelers.org.uk/

Well today I got the car running and took it for it's maiden voyage

I will have lots of pictures to post up tomorrow

Ok so this is where I left off.

Oil pan after modification to clear ARP studs



Timing belt installed



Got the valve cover powder coated as well



New tires arrived. Dunlop Direzza Z2 235 40 17's



Next it was time to degree the Brian Crower 264 cams. All the clearances were within spec and dialed in at 50 thou of lift









Just a quick picture of the wifes 205 after getting her a set of Team Dynamics Needs a good polish...mind you it doesn't look too bad for just coming out of winter storage.




Now I know most people wont agree with the color choice that I went with for my rims but I like it so whatever :p







I decided that I wasn't quite happy with the color my manifold turned out so I redid it.







Resassembly of the engine was next













205 transmission with approx 56,000 km on it.




Light weight competition flywheel and ACT clutch installed




Motor and transmission ready to go back into the car










Quick shot of the gauges lit up




And this is where I am at now. The 185 is running nicely but I have a slight overheating issue to sort out. The rad fan doesnt seem to turn on. Hopeuflly it's just a fuse or something simple. This is what it looks like back on the ground




Battery has since been reloacted to the trunk











Anyway that's all for now. Hopefully ill have the cooling issue sorted this week and have the front end put back together. Really looking forward to being able to drive the car this weekend. I plan on breaking in the engine for 1500 km before I can really have fun with it.

Nice update

Are you running the Crower 264 cams off the standard ECU and injectors?

_________________
Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

For this season yea. Next year I will be looking at an ECU and injectors and a different turbo setup