There are quite a few variants of wiring on a 185, one of which is completely different and won't run at all, may even cause damage to car or ECU so I wouldn't reccomend just plugging in at random.
The following link is for pinouts for various ECU's (some part No. references are wrong as to which car they apply to)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/831 ... iagram.pngThe particular pins to look at are as below. Push a sewing pin through the insulation to make contact with the wire to measure voltage relative to ground:
IDL is the switch signal from throttle position sensor to say throttle is closed which will enable the idle solenoid drive. I would expect this to be +5V when throttle open and drop to 0V when closed, although it may be the other way round. Also see if you can find the IDL readout on the commander to cross reference. Wire is blue with white stripe.
RSO (black with white stripe) and RSC (green with white stripe) are the open and close solenoid drives respectively. These should both be at +12V when not driven and will pull to 0V in short pulses when idling (meter will probably flicker at various voltages between 0 and 12)
Bat+ (top right, pink) should be +12V with ignition on or off)
+B and +B1 (bottom right, black with yellow stripe) should both be +12V when the ignition is on. These are connected together on the standard ECU. Sometimes both are wired (+B1 usually thinner wire), sometimes only +B is wired. This may be the cause of the problem if the Apexi expects 2 feeds - although if this were the case I'd expect it to be a known & documented issue.
All the above - when I say +12V I actually mean 'battery voltage' which is likely to be about 14V with the engine running, less at idle or engine off.
_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.