Anyone able to make an adaptor so I can fit my charge cooler to the throttle body? The stock 185 adaptor is 50mm, the 205 is 70mm ... you see my issue

I've drawn this up so you can see what I mean hopefully. The center hole is the diameter of the standard 185 adaptor.... Click here for image

I'd do it myself but alas I don't have access to a decent lathe anymore

If anyone can knock some up I'd be for ever greatful (no kinky paybacks) and obviously willing to pay

Cheers,

Tone

_________________
Now offering:
Servicing & light body repairs *qualified mechanic*
185 & 205 under-bonnet battery relocation kits
CT26B Turbo clocking bracket *CT20 version soon*
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Tone I may have access to a decent lathe in the next couple of weeks. If your still not sorted then I'll try to help.

I'm still learning this metalworking business but fortunatly the gf's father is an old engineering type and could probably make that in his sleep. Once I have uncovered his lathe from mountains of junk I'll let you know.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Datajon migt be able to help!

He's certainly got the pattern for the 205 unit from making the FMIC kits and I suspect he'll have a 185 pattern kicking about too. Worth a PM if he doesn't answer here

Are you sure that drawing is correct?
If you are replacing the ally/rubber flange from IC - TB the mounting bolt hole centrs are 84mm and 37mm, not 65mm * 65mm

Do you have any software that can view .dxf files?
I will send my drawing to you if you want.

I am having some flanges made in 6mm stainless this week.
They will have a 57.5mm bore to take 2 1/4" tube.
The throttle body is 2 3/8th bore with a taper.

_________________
1991 Jap ST185A
ST205 Head Gasket.
Some random RV & no-name BOV
Blitz Nur-spec SS backbox
Apexi Air Filter

ST205 Front Calipers - Yes, really!

Thanks for all the replys folks



Definitely be interested thanks! I can do the welding as I have a nice industrial mig. It's just the only lathe I have access to is for clock & watch making, which is tiny! I'll await any further news from you. Cheers!



Yes I thought Datajon was probably a good man to contact. But watching some of his posts I reckon he'll be a busy geezer at the moment, making things with his jigs and all. Cheers I may drop him a pm at some point.



I have a spare throttle body in the shed. I took the measurements by first cutting a gasket to the body. Then taking measurements from the gasket using a vernier gauge. I also took a measurement of the 205 charge cooler outlet which was 70mm. I believe these to be right for the adaptor, but please tell me if I am wrong.

That would be cool. I'm in IT now days so software isn't an issue



That sounds interesting. I'd be glad of any photo's you might take so I can see if I do need to make any adjustments to my diagram. Thanks!

May the fource be with you,

Tone

_________________
Now offering:
Servicing & light body repairs *qualified mechanic*
185 & 205 under-bonnet battery relocation kits
CT26B Turbo clocking bracket *CT20 version soon*
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Tone, I just dug out my spare TB (I did my drawing from a spare inlet rubber).
You have measured the wrong side mate!

You adapter will be a perfect fit onto the inlet manifold, replacing the TB, but constant WOT may make the car a bit of a handfull in the wet.

_________________
1991 Jap ST185A
ST205 Head Gasket.
Some random RV & no-name BOV
Blitz Nur-spec SS backbox
Apexi Air Filter

ST205 Front Calipers - Yes, really!

Hi.

Sorry for delay, bit busy at the moment..

I can make this no worries; you want it in steel, alloy, and stainless steel.

If stainless, you want it machined from 1 piece solid, or 2 pieces, the latter is quite a lot cheaper.

will weld it up using tig and 316 wire, mig is ok, but no point using steel wire on stainless steel

Stainless would cost about £45 2 piece version , mild steel would be about £25, alloy would be between the 2.

A small lathe would take ages working on stainless steel this size, it will require tipped tools for a smooth finish, or it will look rubbish.

If you are not use to machining, and jump straight into working with a chunk of stainless, you will wish you had not..

Once you have locked down the drawing, sizing, I could make one for end of next week or so..if not now worries.

If you want to supply the materials that would make it cheaper again.


Hope this helps.

_________________
Black UK 96 205 shed with heater full on telemetry.

project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.

Soooo .... scratch my drawing coz it's only any good if anyone is planning on making your own throttle body Doomanic's are the correct measurements. Thanks!

My problem is this needs to mate up with the 205 charge cooler outlet pipe which is 70mm, using a straight bit of 70mm Samco to join the two. So going by your drawing I'd only have 2mm to the outer edge of the plate once the inlet pipe is in place I supose that would be ok as long as datajon can weld to the inside rather than the outside of the inlet pipe? I'm also thinking the outlet from the work wouldn't need to be 45mm deep, as I now have to take into account the throttle body

I reckon to get this right I will have to remove my IC and stuff the charge cooler roughly in place and take some more measurements. That'll serve me right for smoking jamacan ciggys wilst in charge of a vernier gauge,a hammer & gasket paper

datajon I definitely want you to knock this up for me when I have the correct data for you. Thanks as I know your busy at the moment. I'd like to go the alloy route I think as it's more in keeping with the existing materials and it's some thing I can feed my polishing fetish with too

Thanks for the help folks, much appreciated!!

Cheers,

Tone

_________________
Now offering:
Servicing & light body repairs *qualified mechanic*
185 & 205 under-bonnet battery relocation kits
CT26B Turbo clocking bracket *CT20 version soon*
Metal polishing service *Up to show standards

I have an ST205 inlet rubber in the garage (somewhere).
I'll dig it out and take some measurements tomorrow.

Why no just buy one of those?
Only about £20 IIRC.

Alternatively, I can make you one with 2 1/4" on the flange I am having cut this week.
You would just need a suitable reducer to join the two together.

The TB inlet is approx 58mm, so why use 70mm?

_________________
1991 Jap ST185A
ST205 Head Gasket.
Some random RV & no-name BOV
Blitz Nur-spec SS backbox
Apexi Air Filter

ST205 Front Calipers - Yes, really!

Tony b from the gt4oc used a 205 inlet rubber on his. He said anything above 1bar and it blow past the seal. He recommended making or getting one made as was his plan before he blew his cars engine. The reason I say 70mm is the 205 charge cooler outlet pipe is 70mm. So the most straight forward way I can see of getting the charge cooler outlet to the throttle body inlet is via a straight 70mm bit of Samco pipe.

tone

_________________
Now offering:
Servicing & light body repairs *qualified mechanic*
185 & 205 under-bonnet battery relocation kits
CT26B Turbo clocking bracket *CT20 version soon*
Metal polishing service *Up to show standards

If you use a 70mm inlet flange and copy the stock shape there will only be a very thin sealing face on the TB.

Datajohn, what size do you use?

70-57 reducer £12 + Vat from www.siliconhoses.com 0845 838 5364

_________________
1991 Jap ST185A
ST205 Head Gasket.
Some random RV & no-name BOV
Blitz Nur-spec SS backbox
Apexi Air Filter

ST205 Front Calipers - Yes, really!

That sounds like a good plan. I'm open to idears here as I've not messed about with the IC until now.

Cheers,

Tone

_________________
Now offering:
Servicing & light body repairs *qualified mechanic*
185 & 205 under-bonnet battery relocation kits
CT26B Turbo clocking bracket *CT20 version soon*
Metal polishing service *Up to show standards

Tone, why not just use a ST165 or ST185 C/S rubber adapter?
they fit right over the ST205 C/Cooler outlet (70mm)
it would do for a stop gap.

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

The CS throttle body rubber will fit over 2 ½” pipe work, but they don’t last.
I ran one for a few miles, 2k Touching boost limit of 20 psi or so, it just split after a few hard runs.. In my view a waste of time to use them.


Tone I use 63.0mm stainless steel pipe work as the throttle body joiner, to a 55mm throttle body for now, with an internal belmouth.

I can machine it from one piece if need be.

Can’t see the 205 charge cooler outlet being 70mm, maybe the external diameter is , less wall thickness, equals ? .....it’s the ID thats important for the flow..

The 205 run’s a 60mm TB, 5mm larger than a 185.

Unless running 65, or 70 mm TB very little point in increasing the pipe size, better off making sure all the welds inside the pipe work have been cutback, if left will cause major flow restrictions, thus reducing the overall gains of the upgrade.




What every you need Tone, I can make up in house, if you want it sorted, why not pope down, do it while you wait, that way you know it will fit and work..

_________________
Black UK 96 205 shed with heater full on telemetry.

project six million dollar 185, faster, stronger, lighter than before.

I'm not looking for a stop gap as I plan to keep this setup for some time. I'm not even bothered if it gets done this year. I'd rather it was next week but I can wait and make sure everythings right before I start Thanks for the advice though, please don't think me ungreatful. When u want this zorst dude?

Cheers,

Tone

_________________
Now offering:
Servicing & light body repairs *qualified mechanic*
185 & 205 under-bonnet battery relocation kits
CT26B Turbo clocking bracket *CT20 version soon*
Metal polishing service *Up to show standards