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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 2:08 pm 
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Was thinking about this, has anyone got any of the extra parts fitted to the wrc cars to work, anti lag, WI, spray bar. Has any one seen were the wiring for the past goes??? And if they switch or have any power coming to them at anytime??? Also is there any diffrance inside a wrc ecu, to a std ecu, a friend opened his std ecu and said there was a slot were a chip could go in that's empty on his, does the wrc ecu have this chip??? I have a wrc and I'm wanting to no these answers for my self, because everything looks to be there just needs to be made to work.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 2:17 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
In short - none of it works or can be made to easily.

The spraybar is the easiest to setup you just need to connect the bar to the windscreen washer pump. However the nozzles are very poor quality, you'll run out of fluid very quickly and unless you carry about 25 litres of fluid it won't make any difference to performance of the chargecooler. Also if there is any alcohol in the fluid you use (there will be typically) then this will start to corrode the chargecooler rad fins if used for any significant length of time.

As for the Antilag and the Water Injection, there are cheaper, easier ways to do this rather than use the WRC parts. An aftermarket ECU and water injection kit will sort you out. One other point is that engines and turbo's never seem to last long when running antilag so expect frequent large repair bills.

Hope that helps! :)

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 2:57 pm 
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Yea I understand that, it's just more wanting to no, like the anti lag, I have the als can at the intercooler moving and using the dump valve vac line can make it dump into the exhaust mani. I've been look at the vac lines at the back of the block that's ment to run it and the solonides are by passed by a vac line loop. So maybe if the loop is gone the solonides will see boost and if the ecu has a map would switch it on and have the anti lag banging away.
Also with the als can working, it sets of a cat or exhaust warning light in the dash, could be something to do with switching the ecu to anti lag mode or switching it off as a 3rd fale safe from toyota to stop anti lag working

Just to be clear if I heard it work once or twice I'd be happy and just undo it again. It's just more I want to see if in theory it works than having it working for 20 to 40 miles then needing a new turbo.

The spray bar is pointless and I've had it working on a switch before. The WI is the same as the anti lag, work once of twice then gone


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:04 am 
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Also can the celica als be activated and run in a mild form like the evo sas system that gives you pops and bangs but isn't anyway near what can be called anti lag. The evo boys can use the sas system and some mild ecu twicking to fuel and get the pops and bangs, it's only if they push it to more fueling and retarded the timing the full loud flames and big bang happen. So would be intersting if our system could work the same, with out the ecu tuning because the celica dumps extra fuel into the engine on gear change when you run a dump valve


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 3:12 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
It looks like the Evo guys have to make a change on their ECU if they want to use the secondary air system (SAS) The GT-Four ECU isn't reprogrammable. Also, this only works on later Evo's from the 4 onwards. The GT-Four came out about the time of the Evo 3. Anybody I've seen running anti-lag on their GT-Four has had to fit a programmable ECU. Not worth the hassle and risk to the engine IMO.

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 3:38 pm 
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I agree with you lad, not wort the money or risk to my car. Don't get me wrong I don't want anti lag, just it's something I've been looking up and curiosity has got the better of me and I do think there is a good chance it is a working system just it's been made safe so it can't work

There much the same system if you look at the two of them, build up a vacuum and have a solonid open on gear change, witch bypasses the boosted air from going out the dump valve and puts it into the exhaust. Toyota were the first rally team to use anti lag, and from my looking up the sas system and the celica system is the same thing.

Everyone said the evo system was dead and can't be made to work, till one person keep at it and found out how to do it. Now everyone no it and it's no big deal. Every time the celica antl lag is talked about the same, it's dead and can't be made work, its who knows, has anyone ever tryed to get it working???

I have found 2 ways toyota have made it not work
1/ being the bypass valve having a lip inside so once pushed down can't come up, I've sorted this part on a spare bypass valve, and have it moving and using the dump valve vacuum line have had it dump air into the exhaust

2/ Is the solonides at the back of the engine are bypassed so the ecu will never see boost to be fit to switch the anti lag map on (if it even has one) This is the next one I'm going to try is to undo the bypass here and let the ecu see boost and vacuum for the first time and what will happen who knows

Any one else tryed any of they parts??


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 6:27 pm 
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There is no anti lag map in the WRC ecu, they are identical to a normal ST205 ecu in every way as far as I have seen. Over the 10 years I've had GT4's I have seen tons of people talk about or try to activate the WRC anti lag system and have never seen a single person succeed. I'm not saying it isn't possible and I've never tried myself, but it certainly isn't simple and you would probably end up having to re-make most of the system

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 9:24 pm 
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Yea same lad, it's a topic often talked about but never proven. I've only heard storys about it being made work. Never seen anyone ever do it and have some kind of proof that it does work.

When I'm home again I'm going to take the bypass loop out of the boost lines at the back of the block and check the solonides to see if there dummy's or real thing to.


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