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 Post subject: Turbo Removal - St205
PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 11:34 am 
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Can anyone tell me how hard it is to remove the turbo on an st205?

I want to send the unit off for a rebuild but never removed one before, is there a guide?

Any info would be great.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 2:47 pm 
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It is probably easiest to remove the turbo and and exhaust manifold as one piece then split on the bench.

If its your first time i'd allow 3/4 to 1 day. A regular can do it in 1-2 hours if it has all been off recently.

If it hasn't been off for a long time expect seized nuts, rounded heads and possibly the threads to strip in the head where the exhaust manifold studs go in.

If you still have the cat add 1/2 day!

You will need a decent socket set to get on to the oil/water pipe nuts under the turbo. Tools that are pretty much a must IMHO. 14mm offset ring spanner, 12mm 1/4 socket on around 300-400mm extension with a flexi joint to get to the oil/water pipe off. 14mm single hex socket 3/8" and 1/2". Oodles of duck oil/penetrating oil, new oil/water pipe and gaskets, new studs & nuts for the exhaust manifold, 7 replacement knuckle skins, 2 thumb grafts and a a couple of lesser spotted, small handed midgets. (if you have hands like shovels; do not pass go).

If you need a turbo core to get sent off I have plenty of "requiring rebuild" CT26s I can sell you.

Your other option is offer a really nice BBQ and some beer and see if any of the regulars will point you in the right direction whilst you do the hard graft :-)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:39 pm 
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Thanks Diceman,

I will start spraying duck oil now on the nuts n bolts;o)

I am currently replacing the SS parts and will be moving on to the turbo.

May come back to you about buying a core to send off then i can replace all at the same time

Was looking to maybe hybrid re-build the turbo to get up to approx 330/340bhp.

Spoke to a company called Universal and they say it should be fine.

What is your experience if any of hybrid re-build for the CT26?

I have an Mitsi evo 6 that i am used to but got a GT4 last year for a play thing so still learning a lot..


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:47 pm 
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My personal favourit is the s148 from turbo technics. ( the single scroll / single wastegate variant) as you don't suffer from boost creep.

IT is a bit more laggy though. The standard turbo will see 320bhp at circa 1.2 bar so 330-340 is only a mild increase. Having run a similar stock/hybrid before I would be sticking to a standard turbo for the better response and slightly less power. Unfortunately the fuelling system runs out of headroom around 340bhp and then you are onto ecu/injectors and probably a forged rebuild to run more boost.

Others have had good experience with 46-48 trim hybrids with ported twin wastegate but often they suffer with boost creep.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 11:53 pm 
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Diceman wrote:
....Others have had good experience with 46-48 trim hybrids with ported twin wastegate but often they suffer with boost creep.
I ran a 46 trim hybridised CT20 on my ST205 but it was necessary to port the twin wastegate to mitigate the tendency to boost creep. This proved reasonably effective with my 3" diameter Hayward and Scott downpipe. I haven't heard of many people actually porting the wastegate probably because you need specialised equipment. It's not really a DIY job.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 1:40 pm 
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Diceman wrote:
blah blah blah

Others have had good experience with 46-48 trim hybrids

blah blah blah


Just to provide additional comment. Many hybrid turbo manufacturer's will provide a larger compressor wheel than 46-48 trim and suggest that it is better and can make more power etc. From my experience they are a poor match to the turbine wheel (which they do nothing to or they just trim the edges of the blades down!) and don't make any more power than a 46-48 trim but suffer more lag and surge issues.

Stick to a 46-48 trim TO4E based hybrid or go for the S148 with the custom cast turbine housing deisgned to accomodate a larger turbine wheel. Or stick with the CT20b!

I'd love to try a garrett GTX2860R for a street driven vehicle but they are going to be £1700 done properly and look far from stock.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 4:26 pm 
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I have a TT S148 on mine. having to remove it more than once because it had compressor surge. First time took me all day. Now I could do it in a couple of hours. With a 3 inch decat and fensport 3 inch front pipe I get boost at ~3k RPM and full boost at 3500 so it is very similar to stock.

Easiest way is to remove with turbo still attached to exhaust manifold. Hardest part is getting to the 19mm banjo bolt for the oil feed. One thing I did notice is make sure you thread lock the nuts on the manifold to the turbo as mine came loose the first time round.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 6:43 pm 
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Did you solve the compressor surge?

Normally free flowing air filter, free lfowing exhaust and at an extreme cams will help.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 3:20 am 
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Yeah TT rebuilt it free of charge to old specs.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 4:27 pm 
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bricktop wrote:
One thing I did notice is make sure you thread lock the nuts on the manifold to the turbo as mine came loose the first time round.


I had endless issues with this a few years ago, I found threadlock to be ineffective as the temperatures are so high the threadlock can't withstand it. I even found that new OEM Toyota locking nuts drifted loose over time, this was thought to be caused due to the lack of a supporting bracket as I was running an ST185 based hybrid.

In the end I swapped to the S148 which has the correct mounting holes for both ST185 and ST205 applications and also used aerospace K-Nuts which are a type of locking nut - problem was then solved :)

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