Doing a side by side comparison on fuel maps your map has a little more fuel in it but that might be offset in the correction factors - I had 800cc injectors set via the global injector calibration

Interestingly though my fuelling is similar up to about .4 bar but after that yours increases faster than mine. Might be a sign that your fuel system was starting to show a bit of strain even back when it was mapped
I too has fuel correction off at 50C

If there isn't a sensor issue I suspect a fuel system problem still

I'm going to check the Valve timing to make sure this is all still in spec as i have changed the front crankshaft oil seal since it was mapped.
I will try the st205 ecu which should also give me some AFR's as well as enable me to get the timing light out to see if anything has moved, along with a visual check of both camshafts against their markers..

What I'm struggling with still is if the fuel pump is giving me 60psi of fuel pressure while on boost and the AFR graph shows it going richer at the end of the runs Surely if the fuel pump was unable to keep up i wouldn't see the richer condition and a lower fuel pressure?
I'm happy to drop a new fuel pump in but i'm not convinced?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Agreed.

Definitely rule out sensors and check the map integrity before thinking about the fuel system

OK, Been out this afternoon and did some short runs for datalogging and have UL them to DB

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/029pl7fn1re1bui/mr5pxk9hhr

I have hooked up my WB to the datalogit and seems to read just about the same as my gauge.
Cam timing is all OK
Friend confirmed fuel pressure is just over 60 psi on boost and does not drop
Loaded the map given to me by Ryan when the car was mapped, made no difference!

Other than fitting the old efi temp sender im unsure what to try next?

The efi temp sensor is also used to display water temps on the PFC?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Correct.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Could it possibly be a blocked injector?

Unless all 4 are blocked equally, you would notice 3 cylindering and / or a cylinder melted due to running very weak.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

OK, few more items checked incl, Injector resistance and all are in spec, Fuel injector Resistor pack is in spec, Correct voltage at Map sensor, Good voltage at Fuel pump (Runs a constant 13v) Throttle position sensor is in spec although i feel it wasn't when mapped but everyone tells me that won't effect the map at WOT.

Link to RR print outs & Pictures of spark plugs having started the car and moved 10 foot out of the garage.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/69betsy69/sets/72157634007787619/

Video of Fuel pressure on a run, the black mark near the needle is 60 psi, when on boost.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bayw4zgfypremam/20130618_183434.mp4

Links to data logs and copy of Map
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/029pl7fn1re1bui/mr5pxk9hhr

If someone could have a look at the logs Vs the map that would be great, i feel it is the same.
the second log is done with more fuel and is hitting the bottom of the grid, has always done this.
For some reason the Inj Duty cycle didn't log correctly which was also noted on the hand controller at the time?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Oooh - A quick thought....

When you did the crank oil seal I assume you had to change the cam belt hence your comments regarding checking the cam timing???

Did you...
A) Check base timing before doing the belt.
B) install and reset base timing to be the same?

Or
A) whip the belt off.
B) Stick it back on and reset base timing to 10 deg BTDC?

It has been known that some mappers tweak the base timing to protect their maps. If you did the second set of procedures it could have changed.

I haven't checked the IGN vs your map but I ws wondering if there could be 2 different issues.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

Hi JP, I whipped off the belt, Changed the Seal and put the belt back on as it came off, not checking the Ignition timing before or after..

My Thought being if i put the belt back on as it came off what would of changed?
Is it possible to check base timing with a strobe, or can likely be done with the ECU?

Failing that i could plug a stock Toyota ECU in and bridge the diagnostic socket?

This all makes for terrible reading and is a wonder the car still runs right

Again thank you for your continued input and advice chaps...

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Theoretically it should go on the same. In practice there can be a minor difference. What wodul have been much worse is if you had reset base timing to 10 deg BTDC after ryan had tweaked it to zero or 5 degs and adjusted the map to compensate for it. (I have seen it done before by other mappers).

IIRC you can check base timing using a strobe but you need to turn off ignition idle speed control. Steve will be able to comment better as it must be 5 or 6 years since I frigged with a PFC.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

Ok will try that.
Fuel pump keeps cropping up when talking to others. Is it possible to have 60 Psi and poor flow?
Supra TT seems to be a good choice?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

The amount of fuel needed at 3500rpm is a lot less than at 7000rpm' your AFR line in that range is fairly flat' if the pump was struggling it wouldn't generate 60 psi pressure' and it certainly wouldn't keep enough fuel to hold a fairly level line which I'm sure it did around the 13:1. So pump isn't the cause of your fueling issue.
The temp sensor swapped, it gives out the same voltages at each temp ? Is. This replacement water temp sensor isn't fooling the PFC into thinking its the wrong temp ?

--
Darryl

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--

Darryl

Also the torque curve shape being lower but the same profile means the can timing is the same. The 30bhp down on the 375 is about 8% reduction.... Maybe they (rolling road company} aren't being so optimistic on the correction factors the apply from wheel bhp to the guessed crank figure. Maybe just maybe the rolling road AFR was out on the day ?
As mentioned, most people seem to think 13:1 AFR will melt pistons etc or not allow many miles before giving trouble. The gauge you bought, we need to get it checked.... Or use another known reading lambda sensor. Or run an ecu that we all know will give AFR in the 10:1 range when giving it beans.
Personally, I know its less bragging rights but believe the lower power and only look for the reason the AFR is different, is don't be swayyed to think you will find the extra 30bhp .... Cos by rights the near 13:1 would give more power than 11.5:1

--
Darryl

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--

Darryl

Hi, I believe The run was done in 3rd gear, I thought they were always done in forth, maybe it was when mapped?
I may yet try the other temp sensor.

Having done some more research, Corky bell max boost, it seems it is possible to have 60psi of fuel pressure but have poor flow.

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk