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 Post subject: Warming up the Engine
PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 5:05 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
A few weeks ago I collected some data from my instrumentation during the warm up of the car.

The conditions were bright and sunny 19 degrees C. The warm up consisted of approximately 30 seconds of idling then steady driving at 30-40mph in 3rd or 4th gear for 5 minutes then 60 mph in 5th gear for a further 5 minutes.

Water temperature is measured in the radiator top hose, oil temperature from a blacking port near the filter.

The graph below shows the results:-

Image

As can be seen the water is up to temperature significantly earlier than the oil. With the water having reached 80C after 5 minutes the oil is far behind at 57C.

Also of note is the range of the stock water gauge, on my ST205 the needle is normally slightly below the halfway point, when comparing this to the actual water temperature - the needle is in this position from approximately 60C to over 100C. As shown on the graph when the water has reached 60C the oil is only as hot as bath water at 40C.

Therefore the stock water temperature gauge should not be used as an indication of when the car is ready for more boost and revs.

For this type of driving from cold a warm up time of 7.5 minutes would seem to be sufficent. Clearly as the weather gets colder this time will increase.

Any comments? :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 5:21 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Is this data courtesy of your 'Stone Datalogger' :lol:

Sort of confirms what I've suspected i.e. you need to have around 10 minutes of road driving before you use any significant amount of boost just to be safe.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 5:24 pm 
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Yes I should add a thank you to Claire for helping me collect the data. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 5:31 pm 
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It sort of agrees with mine although as yet I don't have the water temp plugged id

I've noticed that when my water temp reads normal on the stock gauge the oil has just reached 55 degrees.
This might indicate that by chance my water temp is more accurate than yours?

I heartily concur that the car is not ready for beans when the water gauge hits 1/2 way though. I wait until oil temp is 80 (or 75+ and something trys to fodder me lol) before opening the taps.
I suspect my old water temp 1/2 way + 5 mins regime was also pretty close to the mark

Interestingly in this cold weather the water takes about the same time to heat as does the oil to circa 80 degrees but is significantly slow after that. Must be sump cooling?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:18 am 
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Since I had my oil temp gauge installed I always use this as my guide and don't start to bring on the boost properly till the oil is around 80 degrees C. This usually equates to anywhere between 5-10 minutes of sensible driving depending on weather etc.

Before that though I did tend to use the water gauge as a guide, but then I didn't know any better :wink: This new data should be useful for anyone without an oil temp gauge wishing to warm their engine up properly before hooning it :)

Cheers,
Mark

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:32 am 
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What a good post!!

I (Hopefully like others??) waited till my water temp was on the half mark before giving it some, so the figure is half + 5 mins then??
Also do you have any logging data for a standing warm up??


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 2:33 pm 
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I don't i'm afraid Darren.

I have heard in the past that its not wise to warm the car up at idle, no idea how true this is but I always drive straight away keeping it gentle.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 5:24 pm 
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After watching my water temps in line with teh on dash gauge I can confirm that my car also shows "Normal temp" (Half way on the gauge at circa 60 degs. The gauge was indicating the car was upto temp after about 5 minutes of driving. After 12 minutes of driving (cold morning, no boosting) water temps were at 81 degs!

From thsi I would assume my 12 minute journey to work shoudl no longer include a ragging to see if I still get 100% duty cycle on the injectors :-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 5:47 pm 
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Sounds a little slow JP

after 12 mins I'm looking @ 85 oil temp in this weather!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 5:54 pm 
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Quote:
Sounds a little slow JP


That's probably because he's cooling the engine down with copious amounts of fuel! :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:22 pm 
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hmm, maybe the fact that I had the window open (having a smog) and the heater on full blast could have something to do with it.

Kris, I am starting to eek the fuel out now,

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2005 12:22 am 
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ditto with the stock water temp showing normal even up to 100deg.
i have 2 SPA's fitted which ive taken the readings off.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2005 5:32 pm 
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When driving my old route to work I would notice the first 2 miles were in 30mph-40mph slow traffic and the water temp gauge would get up to about 1/4.

When I got on to the 60mph section and was pulling mild boost (max of about 3psi) in 4th then 5th and cruising at this speed the guage climber far quicker to just below half.

Anyone else found this? I assumed since I was pulling in 4th and 5th the engine was under a bit more load, working a bit harder and generating more heat to get it up to temp that bit quicker.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 9:58 pm 
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hummm possibly a knacered thermostat or none at all?

Not expensive - about £15 from Mr T might be worth a punt when you next do a service.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 11:48 pm 
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Sirius wrote:
I don't i'm afraid Darren.

I have heard in the past that its not wise to warm the car up at idle, no idea how true this is but I always drive straight away keeping it gentle.


Its very true. If you leave a car on idle to warm it up it washes the bores with unburnt fuel, which washes the nice oil coating away causing the piston rings to wear faster and cause more bore wear than if you were to start driving straight away. Theres a common misconception that its the pistons that are the weak link within a cold engine but thats incorrect, its the piston rings you "run in" not the pistons. They dont touch squat! (hopefully)...

If you belt your car from cold it causes excess wear as the metals have not expanded to their optimum design working tolerence.

Basically put up with the cold seats and start driving as soon as all your nick nacks and whatever pre flight checks are done, then only boot it after you've finished your starbucks....

Excuse typos, im drunk and its late and I canteth spelleth....

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