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| running in opinions http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2271 |
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| Author: | peterp1per [ Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | running in opinions |
Just wanted some other opinions with regards to running in a fresh rebuild and oils/oil change intervals while bedding in. I've got my own idea/method on how to do it of which i've used before, but you read/hear soo many other ways it makes you wonder "am i doing it right" lol |
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| Author: | TrackToyFour [ Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:38 pm ] |
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Quote from 'Forced Induction Performance Tuning' by A. Graham Bell The initial bed-in of rings is achieved by giving the engine a full throttle burst for a few seconds, followed by snapping the throttle shut and coasting for a few more seconds. This should be repeated at least 12-15 times with the engine at normal operating temperature. Accelerate the car in top gear from the slowest speed it will pull in that gear. By giving the engine full power the high gas pressures force the rings out against the bore wall. Snapping the throttle shut causes a vacuum in the cylinder, which draws up extra oil. This, and a low engine speed, minimises the risk of glazing and allows the ring face and cylinder wall to cool. After the rings are initially bedded in, the engine cn be operated at up to 80% of its rev/power potential, but constantly vary the speed. If this is not done, the rings may still glaze. After about half an hour of this, the rings can be considered as being run-in. ..... Avoid constant high speed until the engine has done 500-700 miles. Regarding oil changes I'd change after the ring bed-in, then again at 500 miles. |
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| Author: | Kris [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Brave man to take the above method, I suppose if it holds together then you'd have a good engine... I'm in favour, (for the mere mortals amongst us), to take the slow and steady route - reckon it's the safest and most wallet friendly option. Are you going to adopt the above method for your super duper engine Don? 
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| Author: | TrackToyFour [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:41 am ] |
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Seems to make sense Kris although at the end of the day I will probably defer to Jon's judgement. If he breaks it he can pay for the rebuild! BTW didn't you 'run-in' your engine with a long high speed run up to Preston 
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| Author: | Kris [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 7:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: BTW didn't you 'run-in' your engine with a long high speed run up to Preston
ish...had several oil changes and some miles, maybe 1000? before seeing if it held together |
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| Author: | Diceman [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Is it run in yet then Kris? |
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| Author: | two_OH_five [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Totalseal rings seem to require abuse from what I gather Try a search for them on teh web Pete. Most of the Lycoming aero engines which use them are run in hard from the get go. I used to have an accumulation of links, a couple of white papers and some manufacturer data for the process. IIRC it was about 80% throttle for 20 mins once warmed with posible rapid rev and load fluctuations Most race engines are run in hard and fast too from what I see Not sure if I have the kahunas for it though. Tis certainly going to require a bit of clenching 
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| Author: | peterp1per [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
tbh i'm all for loading an engine up on it's initial runs, but i'm not happy to rev the *bleep* off if it. i've done an initial run up to temp and oil change. next step was gonna be several short runs with varying revs and loads..all on mineral oil at the mo. needs a bit more work/tiding up before it's road worthy though |
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| Author: | two_OH_five [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Did you source another oil cooler core or link the pipes for now? |
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| Author: | peterp1per [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i went up to think auto on saturday and picked up a new 13 row mocal cooler, which is all plumbed in on rubber bobbins...and surprisingly it dosen't *bleep* oil everywhere 
all credit to Think auto aswell, sorted me out with 33.3% discount through the club 
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| Author: | Jamie_F [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
every engine ive ever done, ive basically driven the engine hard, the same principle as Don posted, the idea is to force the rings into the bore to make them bed properly, ive done a few turbos now and all have run in perfect, i look at it like if its going to break, make it break sooner rather than later, my old NA engine had 8k rpm by 500 miles and turbos ive stuck 1 bar in them by 500 miles, the only thing to bed in is rings, and they only take 50 miles max to bed in, just depends in how much faith you have in the work carried out really. |
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| Author: | peterp1per [ Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i'd be happy to give it some decent boost at around 500 miles, as long as it last 500 miles lol
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| Author: | TrackToyFour [ Wed Feb 27, 2008 1:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I like Jamies logic . . . . bed in the rings properly by using the recommended approach and at the same time make sure the rest of the engine build is OK. Better this than risk glazing the bores by pussyfooting around and not finding out if you have a problem with the rest of the build. |
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| Author: | steveholbrow [ Thu Feb 28, 2008 10:45 pm ] |
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Interesting article on the subject here.... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm |
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