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 Post subject: Changing brake pads
PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 1:27 pm 
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got a new set of front and back here - any tips on how to replace the old ones?

I'll write up a how to when i do them, i would like to know how to do it though before i go steaming in!

Cheers
Rob

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 1:48 pm 
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In theory it's a very simple 10 minute job

The same principle applies front and rear

Jack car and take off wheel

You'll see two steel pins going across the top of the calpier. These have a thin stainless steel plate connected to them
On the inner side of the caliper is a little wire spring between the two pins.
Remove this. Now comes the praying part. You need to remove the two steel pins from the caliper. Ther are often stuck!
If you're lucky they will just pull out from the outside of the caliper. If they have seized prepare yourself for a good battle

If they haven't seized take them out. note the orientation of the steel plate before removing pins!

You can then pull the pads stright out of the caliper. When you do so you should find a little L shaped bit of spring steel. Again, note which side of the pad this came from!

On the back of the pads are two sliding pieces of steel which make the anti-squeal. Hopefully these will be re-usable as they cannot be replaced any more :( . If they are then clean them up and coat in copperslip or similar

You'll then need a wooden wedge of some sort. With one pad in position drive the wedge slowly between the caliper piston and the disk on the side without the pad. Be careful and take your time! Also, you should check the master cylinder every so often. As you force the piston back into the caliper you'll be forcing fluid back into the m/cyl and eventually it might overflow!

Repeat the procedure for all 4 (front, 2 rear) pistons

Re-assembley should then be a case of dis-assembley in reverse. You'll be glad you noted the position of the little L shaped spring things and the steel plate between the pins

Overall this is about a 1 (out of 5) spanner job in theory


General tips for removing stuck pins

The one that usually works for me :D
Get some good penetrating lube. I use Quack, or "Duck Oil" as it is branded lol but anything equivalent should do. In fact I have had very good results with standard diesel which is a very good penetrant!
Soak the pin/caliper join it whatever you use. Give it a bit (10 mins or so). Soak it again. Then get a DECENT pair of Mole grips. Clamp the centre of the pin between the two 1/2s of the caliper. Gently rock it backwards and forwards trying to work the pins loose. If this doesn't work try gripping it to one side of the caliper and be a little less gentle, again rocking back and fore. This concentrates the effort on one side. If nothing happens soak in oil again and go for a cuppa/jolly good rant lol.

If the above simply will not get the baby bathed then some heat is the next option. Be very gentle with a plumbers torch or equiv. You don't want to melt the caliper, just warm it. When everything is warm, soak with oil again and let it cool. Repeat until it does eventually come undone

Under no circumstances start beating on the end of the pin with the 48Lb sledge hammer. You will be tempted but it will only get worse as you spread the end of the pin preventing it from going though the caliper at all :(
If yo are going to beat on it then use a proper drift, the same size or slightly smaller than the pin. Use a small hammer and hit it with a few sharp ringing blows. Try this while rocking the pins if you have a helper

If none of the above works you'll need to remove the caliper. You can then cut the pins and drill out the holes

HTH


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:46 pm 
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fantastic - cheers mate for that..!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 8:57 pm 
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Rob,

I am in the process of writing up how to chage brake pads, I have already done how to's for changing disks and adjusting the handbrake - these should be on the website by now?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 10:02 pm 
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Couple of points i'd like to mention.

1. while pushing the fluid back to the M/cyl is ok first REMOVE the CAP and cover with CLEAN rags. Forcing the fluid back to the res is technically incorrect and can flip the seals in the MASTER CYLINDER...end result NO PEDDLE.

2. strip one side at a time if this is your first attempt that way when you forget where the DO-DA goes you can look at the other side.

3. clean the rus and dirt out of the pad carriers so the new pads don't stick and apply some copper slip grease to the metal contact areas.This stops annoying SQUEELS and prevents siezed pads.

don't get brake fluid on painted surfaces as you may find they become UNPAINTED..

4. PUMP the PEDDLE OUT before you DRIVE off coz it won't STOP until the pads reach the discs some 5 or 6 preess too late BANG..

:oops:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 10:32 pm 
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Some good points there Midnite, especially about the seals...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 11:09 am 
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what a wonderful bunch of helpful people... cheers for this - you dont want to come fit them for me too do ya?

;-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2005 6:33 pm 
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well i've been at this for the majority of today...

I did three brakes, and they took about an hour or so, then i got to the last one. The final pin would not move, not even after using the gentle approach, so i took the calliper off and gave it a big hit which moved it and mushroomed the end - what a crock of ****! So then i tried to file it round - no joy, in the end i ground the mushroom off. But now i am one brake short.

Went down to the local Toyota garage - ordered some but they won't be in until Wednesday.. so no 4 until then!

Anyone know where i can get one from on a Sunday - or am i stuck until Toyota can deliver?


One problem i found was the inside of one of the front wheels was covered in grease, and the inside of the calliper - anyone got any ideas what could be causing this?

Cheers from a p***ed off Rob

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2005 6:45 pm 
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RObbie - I have a spare pin (used) I think...which end of the car?

PM me your address and I'll stick it in the post for you

Grease - are your CV joint boots ok?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2005 7:08 pm 
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Its for the front calliper mate - thanks for your help, i need two - do you have 2?

I'll check the CV boots tomorrow
Cheers

PM sent

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 1:53 pm 
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I've checked the CV boot, and its not split - maybe its not fitting properly - so i've given it a bit of a nudge

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 11:25 am 
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A wise man wrote:
Under no circumstances start beating on the end of the pin with the 48Lb sledge hammer. You will be tempted but it will only get worse as you spread the end of the pin preventing it from going though the caliper at all


Sorry to rub it in Robbie but what part didn't you read LOL

I did write that as a result of bitter experience on other cars. Feckin pins are the worst idea I've found for ages

Re the grease
Both CV joints would be the first bet then possible a bizzarre leak from the wheel bearing itself
Or possibly just some leftover grease that didn't get cleaned off last time something was done

How much are you talking about?
Huge great mess everywhere of just the odd little blob


Last edited by two_OH_five on Mon Nov 21, 2005 2:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 2:34 pm 
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Hummph - yeah ok - it was the last pin - and i did hit the thing hard..

Its quite a bit of grease, all round the inside rim of the wheel!
Not sure if it was left over from when the fig8's were done as the guy who did its on holiday?
When i had a look - i seems that the CV boot is fine, i pulled at it a bit and i can't see any splits?

are the splits normally easy to see?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:13 pm 
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Quote:
are the splits normally easy to see?


Sometimes...

Quite often the boot seperates into 2 halves :shock: It is sometimes a little difficult to see, so a thorough inspect all around and along the boot might be called for.

Do you have metal banding at both ends of the CV joint?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:20 pm 
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the banding is there - i'll have a good go at it on Wednesday when the pins arrive - until then im in the misses A6 - :-(

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