Oke so this is the deal, I have been busy on my car for about a year now
and so far I have changed all gaskets, main-,thrust-,rodbearings, new oil pump, new waterpump and I bought a 2nd generation head which I did a ful valve job on which now has new valves, springs, retainers, locks, seals and ported intake and exhaust, so now I have bought a supra ct26 for the mean time and I have removed pcv, egr etc etc.

After like a few months of work and after I did a ful inspection on the engine I first primed the engine by removing efi fuse and then fired her up, I had lots of trouble with the turbo I bought so I bought a next 1 which is working without leakage, anyways......

She started up, very fast I must say, I have experience overhauling engines but most of the time they take a few cranks before they start. But she started and after a moment she began smoking, this is most of the time very normal with new rings so I just let her smoke it out and after I have done my first drive with her she started stop smoking, and then completely stopped, at firts it was a bit too much from my experience so I thought it was the pcv so I places an oil catch can.

Now she idles and runs pretty good but I have experience breaking in engines and most of them we used 500 km to 1000 km to break in, but how much would be better for the 3sgte, I did not hone the sleeves so they don't have to seat it's the rings that have to sit in.

She is also idling very rough, i must say I have 272 hks cams with 9.8 lift installed, am I just tripping or is there really something wrong with the idle?

If I have to I can make a video of the car running so you can see, how it's doing, I also have oversize valves installed, don't know if that gives a rough idle, I know it it does give better response but no idle effects as far as I know, she doesn't stall or anything but she does idle rough but soon after 800 rpm all is well.

Let me know how to break in, I'm kepping it below 3000 rpm's and just driving very carefully know but is this a good aproach for the 3sgte, I know for the 2e and 3e engines this was very well needed, but as far as I know you need more break in miles when you have bored the sleeve but I kept mine at 86 mm, I wonder how much I need to break in then...

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a real man is not one who can drink, *bleep* or fight the best or the most, a real man knows how to control himself and his car in a crisis situation

If you've fitted new rings but not honed the block then I would go pretty hard from the start. The reason to go easy is to bed the rings on the rough hone. Since you have no honing to speak with I think the harder you run it the better

I did much the same with my engine rebuild except I did not change the rings on purpose as I did not want to machine the block.

I gave mine 100ks of gentle use to knock sny high spots off the new bearings, changed the oil again (second time, first oil did 0 miles, just start->warm up-> change oil ) then drove it enthusiastically to reseat the rings. No smoke to speak of......

Running rough at idle - Mine did this because while taking all of my rebuild photos I took the throttlebody apart and did not recalibrate the throttle position sensor. The idle was hunting from 500-1000 revs and very unstable. Worth checking this on yours. I would also expect 272 cams with large valves to idle bad anyway. With 264 cams, a full port but stock valves my other 205 is beginning to sound cammy. If you have large valves and a stock turbo I would expect it to be much worse than mine

Thanks for the reply.

First off, I did not take the throttlebody apart, mine is idling above 500 and fluctuates from 700 to 900 but as soon as I give gas it rersponds right away and after release it drops to about 500 and afterwards goes back to 700 to 900 fluctuating idle, other than this I haven't boosted it yet I did do an oil change already, I first started it and let it warm up then I took it for a ride around the block and parked it and changed the oil (no boost at all)and now I have like 30 ks driving it so I had in mind to change the oil and filter at 200 ks that's what I'm used to but you say you did yours at 100 ks what's your reason for this? (just so I know and that I can consider this).

I will make a video tomorow of the car and it's idle, but please save all coments on the paint and body work cause it's being prepped for a new paintjob and the engine has it's battery loose and I know this, because my bettery keeps dying, I'm working on getting a yellow top.

Anyhow thanks for the time...
cheers..

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a real man is not one who can drink, *bleep* or fight the best or the most, a real man knows how to control himself and his car in a crisis situation

I changed mine at 100k because I was planning to do a few miles before I was going to have a chance to change it again. Since I wasn't breaking in rings anyway I wasn't expecting any debris in the oil so I figured 100K was as good as any distance.

In your case with new rings 200K might be better. With no honing of the bores it will take a bit longer to bed the rings in. I'd be tempted to change at 200 and maybe again at 500 to be really safe. It's a bit overkill but better than running it with contaminated oil early in it's life.

A video might be useful. A hot cam engine usually sound different to one which is hunting for another reason

Oke, well I did a video to start with......
I uploaded the video to my youtube channel and the link to it is found below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1R7oNynQFp8

you can't see everything clear enough cause it was getting kind of dark and the lights from my appartement building aren't helping 1 bit.

Although it's clearly visible how the spoiler is sanded, I'm going to paint her as soon as I finish.

I took her for a drive today cause I had to go buy a polishing machine, and she drove a lot better today and had a lot less rough idling although she did idle rough at 1 stop but at the other trafficlight she idles at 900 to 1100, so that was kind of wierd which makes me figure if the throttle position sensor is playing me.

anyways, hope this helps, I could try to make a better vid tomorow during the day, it was rainy today so my chances of making the video was when it stopped in the evening.....

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a real man is not one who can drink, *bleep* or fight the best or the most, a real man knows how to control himself and his car in a crisis situation

That's cams/low air speed without a shadow of a doubt IMO

Sounds lovely

You could probably tune some out with timing adjustments around idle but I honestly can't imagine why you'd want to

ooh oke well many thanks, I took her for a drive today for the first time after 1 year back on the freeway, and she did quite well except that I think the turbo spools up a bit later now with how the engine is set up, but I really appreciate you trying to help out, I have been ding my best and I'm trying to go for some more performance modifications after this summer I will keep you updated I already purchased 2 new oil filters and a 4 quarts of oil to give her an oil change pretty soon....I will keep this updated

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a real man is not one who can drink, *bleep* or fight the best or the most, a real man knows how to control himself and his car in a crisis situation

A quik question here.....what oil is better to use after break go wit5h a 10w 40 or better of with the 30? and should I take synthetic in anyway, I don't drive hard, I just boost a little and I leave racing for another time...

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a real man is not one who can drink, *bleep* or fight the best or the most, a real man knows how to control himself and his car in a crisis situation

Idle sounds pretty typical for hot cams to me.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

p.s. compare with a few other 'cammy' idles

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78EWKhPR ... re=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7PjMU6E ... re=related

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

I use, and highly recommend, Silkolene PRO S 10W-50 Ester Synthetic Oil from OPIE oils:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1145-silkolene-pro-s-10w-50-ester-synthetic-oil-for-high-performance-engines.aspx

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Vice Chairman
1990 White UK Celica ST185 - Project DTM
1997 Cream BMW R1200C (as seen in James Bond "Tomorrow Never Dies")
2005 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sovereign AWD Automatic
Blood Bikes - https://www.freewheelers.org.uk/

oke so thank you all for your reply it's comforting to hear that it's not theengine but just me (tripping balls).
I have experience rebuilding engines but I have never rebuild an inline 4 cylinder with performance cams, so I was experiencing this idle as a false air inhaling engine, faulty timing or carbon build up on the valves but now I know.......

Now it's better to go with synthetic blends? I have heard and seen that full synthetic blends are not the best for an old engine, can you please specify why you recommend the full synthetic blend and how long you have been using this oil and what the differances are that you have experienced using this oil? Thank you all a million for your time especially mister two oh five, kris and loosey, I have learned a lot from your tutorials and used many of them....A LOT....I want to make a new video but I have been very busy today and yesterday, I will try my best to make 1 tomorow and upload it.......so you can see how it is under the bonnet, the engine is a lot better......

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a real man is not one who can drink, *bleep* or fight the best or the most, a real man knows how to control himself and his car in a crisis situation

I have used Silkolene Pro S 10x50 in my car for about 80,000 miles it certainly seems to perform well.

The car has done numerous trackdays and long drives through Europe, as well as being a daily driver all that time winter and summer.

Look for some of the posts by Oilman for more details.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

I'd go with 10W50 as well. I use 10W40 at the moment but with the hot weather we've got lately my oil gets too hot too easy for my liking. 50 should offer better protection at higher temps. 40's fine during the winter though.

Idle sounds great, big cams +1.

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René - Carlos Sainz 2433•5000
Turbocelica.nl | ST185 CS restoration and full rebuild

If it ain't broken.. it soon will be

Oke.... so going with 10w 50 full synthetic and switching back to 10w 40 it is, I will start trying this as soon as I break in the engine, Alright so the cams are responsible for the way she's idling, well I gotta say I'm very very happy now that I hear everyone thinks it's just the racing cams now I Can just start driving chilled and let her break in as soon as I hit 200 k's I'm changing the oil and after that I'll be changing it once again at 500 k's to full synthetic, I have my filters bought and everything......thank you all for your fill in, any other suggestions you have,just let it drop...

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a real man is not one who can drink, *bleep* or fight the best or the most, a real man knows how to control himself and his car in a crisis situation