Kris No need for you to eat any humble pie.
10mm, umm, drag monster spec, running near hydraulic lock.
Remember one thing, higher rpm = less valve opening time, less time for every thing that goes on though the engine cycles.
There’s me thinking 9.0mm with 1mm oversize valves would be a good choice.
Think this would allow good bhp, and more importantly, Mr Torque.
It depends if you want a drag car for 10 seconds or a drivable car with power.
The rally cars had a limit of give or take 300 bhp, with torque over 400, this allows for a much better drivable vehicle, still reach similar top speed.
My 1st experience with my 1st car build, engine etc I was very young, and made some buck ups on the way.
Built a few ford Kent xflow engines. Various spec’s, but 2 come to mind 1st,using full race cam, another with a full rally cam, used the same big valve heads as, with twin 45’s, tubular manifold’s, the lot. Full spec on a mk2 escort, very nice, until...a long length of hedge got in the way. Thanks to the roll cage, or that would have been it, for sure. Do 145 mph with the correct gearing.
The race spec was great, would rev 8800 no worries, scream like hell in the night, but had nothing below 5k that’s when it kick, all lightened, the lot, but very painful to drive on the road.
However, the rally cam, well, totally different, top rpm, 7800, but power from 2500, all they way, had a dyno at Jan speed 183 bhp on 1800cc on the wheel, not bad, but you could drive it around every day if you wanted.
As for the race cam, well the engine let go best thing to happen, otherwise I would never of-tried the rally cam.
So I would say a mid range cams, with bvh, with suited hardware would give best power and drivable to boot.
These 4 wheel drives need the torque, if you have A & B roads everywhere.
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