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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 7:18 pm 
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small grinding bit in a drill ?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 7:28 pm 
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Yea i may have to purchase a dremel... Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:22 pm 
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Got a problem!

The nipple has snapped off from pipe two above. O dear what can i do? If i blank off the pipe from the inlet manifold will this leave the tvis disabled for the time being? Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:34 pm 
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Blank off pipe 1 to the resevoir (blue tank shown) so you don't have an air leak. This will then run without TVIS. You may notice a slight reduction in low end pull & smoothness.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:58 pm 
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Just come in after fitting a genuine gasket and arp studs.. Compressions now at 80psi. Only checked cylinder 1 at the moment as battery needs a charge. Must be something else. Going to have to cancel the insurance etc now i think. Its a bad day :cry:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 4:47 pm 
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Pour some oil down spark plug hole and check compression if its better its bad rings. If not then probably valves.leaking.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 5:01 pm 
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On the case now! ......


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 5:07 pm 
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Just done it and no f*cking way! .... 178psi... So its the rings then! Thats a sh*tter then! What should my game plan be now?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 5:36 pm 
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Did you do all the checks on block & head flatness ?

Did you check for vertical scores in the bores ?

How much oil did you put down the plug hole, as oil could also have sealed any gaps in head gasket.

My suspicion was that lack of compression last time was unlikely to be faulty head gasket hence why I thought it would be a good idea to come and look with you.

Options:

1. Head & sump off. Undo big ends & remove pistons for inspection. Depending on outcome new rings / pistons / hone bores. Also inspect / plastigauge big end shells.

2. Replacement secondhand engine.

3. Full rebuild / forged / etc.

Depends what your plans are for the car.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 5:58 pm 
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About a shot glass worth.

Well if all this work is involved i would of thought it would be worth forging it... Can i buy the standard size forged pistons if my bores seem ok?

AS you know (chris) i havent esactly got alot of space for dropping an engine. I have a shed up the road which i once built a 2L micra in but even then it was tight and couldnt fit the car and engine in seperatly.

So basically option 1 but fitting these too...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wiseco-P ... ccessories


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:39 pm 
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for what its worth this is why a HG coolant check is worth the money. it would have told you it wasnt head and you needed rings...

TBH get head off and pop pistons out. If bores are ok and will clean up with a light hone i would just get a set of rings and bottom end bearings. Then put it back together. Wouldnt be that expensive really. To do forged engine needs to come out.. even stock size forged pistons will need the block honing / boring to get right clearance...

If you used a steel HG then you should be able to re-use that and the arp's will also be fine.. or replace if funds allow..


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:01 pm 
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When the engine 'went' i didnt have any coolant left which would still indicate head gasket wouldnt it? Ok forging will be left for the time being. As the heads coming off shall i remove the TVIS? TCB dont seem to advertise a 185 ring kit, maybe the 205 fits? Bottom end bearings are causing a pain too. Thanks for the advice! :)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:10 pm 
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It may be rings / pistons went as a result of low coolant / overheating.

Give the bores a careful inspection for cracks, especially on the side of No.1 where the coolant comes in from the water pump.

Make sure the internals stay clean and items are labelled so they go back in the same place. I normally use plastic bags so each piston/rod/cap goes in it's own numbered bag. I also spray the block face with WD40 or light oil and lie a piece of cloth over, also sprayed / soaked in light oil. (or you may have anti-rust paper at work).

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:18 pm 
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Ok, so once the sump and heads off i need to undo the conrods and take the pistons out the top. The diameter of the pistons need to be measured and checked against the bore correct? So the rings could of just worn because of heat, and the bores may still be ok? With regards to forged pistons.. if they measure the same as my current ones then whats the difference between refitting mine with new rings and forged? Sorry if im sounding stupid :? I still cant believe this conversation is about my car to be honest, very daunting.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:42 pm 
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I wasn't aware that it had suffered a major heat sieze

It's quite lekely the bhg was an effect, not cause

Standard toyota pistons are stamped with their size on the crown. You need accurate bore measurements, not piston. You can get a feel for it using a ring at various depths into the bore but ideally it needs checking with a 3 leg bore gauge. Also check ring end gap for an idea of ring wear but again not much use until bore measurements are known

You cannot fit forgies into a stock block as they use a material with a different expansion rate to stock pistons and generally require a looser fit. If you're lucky you may find bore wear has increased clearances into a range doable woth a hone

TBH pnce you get to this stage un!ess ypu have tool access it's getting out of diy range :(


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