Just doing some preliminary research into my forthcoming engine build.

What is the general consensus out there on the limitations of the standard rods?

My goal is for ~350hp and ~300lbft. The car will be used mainly for road / fast road with the occasional trackday.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Standard rods would be fine for those figures HOWEVER you might want to consider going for lighter aftermarket rods as this would reduce the reciprocating mass and improve engine response makiing it more fun to drive, especially on sprints and trackdays. Matched with a lighweight flywheel this is an easy mod with very little downside. Dorris is heading down this route with his build

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Hi,

i want Ti-rods but i think they could be a little bit expensive so i didn't asked any company yet

http://www.amt-advanced-materials-techn ... um-engine/

nice

greetz

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KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE

street legal?.....perhaps in tschibuti

Can cant agree with Don enough on this one, I measured up my standard pistons and rods against what I’m putting in and I’m saving 1087gram just in pistons and rods alone, not only that I now have equal weights across all four cylinders which; providing I put everything back together properly again, should make things feel so much smoother. My build will obviously be for hp gains but it will be more so for the side of reliability and then there is the joy of doing the work your self, call me sad but I find it very therapeutic lol Dorris

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Black CS 2771

# stock rods are tough as !
# limitations 400, 500+ @ stock RPM limit
# assuming little ends & big ends are good
# weight balanced assembly essential for longevity

see the dyno records http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/mr2records/dyno.htm

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ST165 turbo 4WD
ST185 GT-FOUR RC Carlos Sainz Limited Edition 825•5000
ST185 turbo 4WD Carlos Sainz Limited Edition 2541•5000

Good points made by Gary. Balancing and weight matching are critical irrespective of whatever rods you decide to use. OEM, Eagle, HKS, Carillo, Crower, Paulter, Pankl, Arrow to name a few. There is the ongoing issue over provenance with some of these products as well. Many US manufacturers in particular are getting their products made in China or elsewhere to keep costs down and remain competitive. The latest story is that recent failures of what were previously regarded as unbreakable Carillo rods have been linked to the move of production to Israel

Short of doing some sort of non-destructive materials testing its very difficult to identify if there are any problems with the rods. The only sure way to eliminate this risk is to get the rods made to order but of course that costs! My British made Arrow rods cost about 50% more than a set of Eagle rods.

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Hi Don,



custom made in steel or Ti?
any pictures

greetz

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KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE

street legal?.....perhaps in tschibuti

I'd not be fitting lightened anything in the reciprocating mass without matching it with a re-balancing of the crank. That's the whole point of the counter-balance weights on the crank webbing, remove some of the mass from the rods/pistons and you need to match it or you just make the whole lot even less smooth than stock.