quick 1 any idea why my car keeps stalling when its warm? Its fine when it’s cold or just warming up but then when up to temp if you dip the clutch it stalls and when u stop at a junction and put the clutch in it stalls every time. But if u blip the throttle and hold it a tick over revs it will then runs ok? Could it just be that it needs mapping not hat I have done a lot of changes to the engine and intercooler pipe work?

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What ECU are you running ?

If it's aftermarket it could be a function of overrun fuel cut (or over-rich) or just need the idle settings tweeked. Lightened flywheel and aftermarket cams wouldn't help either if you have them.

Cold idle is normally set higher so will be less prone to stalling.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

runing HKS f-con v-pro gold, only dont it this weekend wasfine last weekend when i was runing it in.

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have you been working on it this weekend Louis?

Could be you've kinked the idle hose or something. I take it the afm is a distant memory?

idid do a bit of work on it in the week but only fitted the new vacume manifold, and yes the AFM has long gone

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Could be you've sealed up an air leak that was present on the old manifold when it was mapped.

Don't know anything about the F-con to be able to suggest further.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

The symptoms do sound consistent with an idle air control valve issue. Apart from checking for kinked or leaky hoses I'm not sure how you'd check it was operating correctly.

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Don
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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

im going to stip the idle air control valve down tomorrow and see if there might be any leak and see how i go form there, but it only seem to do it when im driving if i start the car up when it is warm its fine doesent stall not had chance to have a look to see if there is any vac leak or split hose but i am runing a map sensor not the AFM, it is boosting fine when driving pulls all the way to redline and 1.4bar easy will try and have a look tomorrow if i get time.

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I'd look here - may be a leak

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Don’t think it’s to do with that mate as I have plumed it into the same pipe that all of the others were taken from in the first place been out tonight and no leaks any where but I did find the brown plug that goes onto the water elbow witch I think is the ecu engine temp sensor was not on all the way so I might be that

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If it's a map sensor system, an air leak will only increase idle RPM. Unless it's right down at the bottom of an inlet runner (e.g. TVIS take off point) it won't cause an incorrect mixture. Hence why I said it may be the car was mapped with an air leak which you've now sealed up. Short term solution may be to create a small air leak.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

or open throttle a bit more no leak on boost

could well be the problem Mixer. Hot engine flooding on cold mixture

ok car is now ampped but im still getting a bit of an idleing problem::( it seem to what to keep hunting most of the time, could it be down to the idle up valve now? if i unplug it what should happen?

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If the engine is hunting at low speed then this can happen when there is a build up of fuel in the inlet tract often as a result of coarse mapping at low rpm. The Emerald ECU and twin injector rail system on my supercharged Elise needed more detailed mapping (i.e. more load points) at low rpm to eliminate or at least substantially reduce the hunting. The crappy IACV still causes me grief and I have to keep cleaning it of oily residue so it 'works' properly

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp