Hey, so our ST205 WRC went on the dyno today (Dastek) and I was curious to see what power/torque other people are making

Ours is basically stock other than a custom exhaust system and plenty of maintanence and care. It's a 95 with just under 170,000 miles.

220bhp @ 6,386rpm / 171awhp @ 6,303rpm
190lbft @ 5,152rpm

hey there.. unfortunately to me the results seem a little on the low side.

but then the 3s engines have been renowned for either being over the 255bhp mark or under the mark.

maybe the miles have affected the car but with regular maintenance i cant see it being a massive problem, mine for one is on the 124,000 and still going like a steam train, i shall have more dyno figures soon in a few weeks.

but for reference when i went in Banzai magazine she made 235 or 245Bhp @ the wheels with an exhaust and intake and 1 bar boost which equates to around 310-315 bhp on the fly.

the torque seems to be rather high up the graph compared to mine too for a stock turbo to me? i remember my max torque was at 4k.

how does it feel to drive?

I actually thought the torque seemed strangely high, but it came out twice like that, and I assure you that even with say 20hp loss it still pulls like a train! We've had the car for about 6 years and it's had regular mainanence including a new turbo (stock), but I don't think the previous owner took as good care of it..

The exhaust system might not be the best for it, it doesn't look as big as a HKS Silent Hi-Power or Blitz Nur-Spec.. but it sounds fantastic hehe. The air filter is still a panel filter but was replaced last week. So those are what could be limiting it..

On the to-do list is get a proper intake, Bailey DV, boost controller/sort out the boost limiting thing (bad memory!). I suppose that'd take it to the above 250bhp category?

with regards to the intake the panel filters are usually ok to be fair as no hot air is drawn into the engine.

with regards to power wise and where you are at the minute if you did the following:

plugs, leads, dizzy and rotor

a good electronic boost controller and upped the boost to 1.1bar

i would expect around 280bhp.

as i say at the time of Banzai i had the following:

Blitz nur spec - r exhaust
apexi intake
Blitz DSBC spec -s @ 1.03bar

and it made either 235 or 245 at the wheels which equates to 310ish at the flywheel.

now the reason i say that i think yours might make slightly less is that the car does seem rather low on the power side bearing in mind that upping the stock boost from 0.9ish to 1.03 bar would not make anywhere near the 80+bhp needed to make the usual 300bhp mark unfortunately.

But, i would expect to see a strong 250-280bhp.

remember when putting a boost controller on to disable the tvsv.

so long as it drives well though i think you should be fine, and to be honest i would probably go to another dyno too, dyno dynamics are pretty good rep.

what kind of make is the exhaust? again this wont make massive gains but a gain is a gain so they say.

hth

The exhaust is a powerflow custom, seems to be good but like I say, it doesn't seem to be as big as aftermarkets.

Thanks a lot for the advice

no problems, with regarding the powerflow system they arnt the best to be honest but better than nothing.

how much are you willing to spend on the car and the exhaust and boost controller?

5mm leads good or should I go for 8mm?

And I assume that the dizzy/rotor for MR2s would fit fine?

so long as its a 3sgte for the correct age should work fine.

with regards to the leads i would go for the same measurement that are on your car now.

i too am changing mine soon.

if you want a nice exhaust but dont want to spend a fortune i would look at a mongoose.

i will say however that i would never EVER buy a Japspeed exhaust, they are big but Japspeed are cheap for many reasons... many many parts i have fitted to skylines have just not gone on and the quality has always been poor. so steer clear of them at all cost

Ergh,

Before you start winding up boost and potentially doing damage to an already sick engine can I suggest some diagnostics!

Is it a JDM or EU spec car?

How long have you owned it, did you know the previous owner?

Has it been modified in the past?

Did you get a boost reading with the dyno plot? If so what was the figure?

When you put your foot down what does the stock boost gauge do?

It's a JDM car. We've had it for about 6 years and we didn't know the previous owner. AFAIK it was stock other than exhaust, that's how we got it. No boost reading though it seems to pull as it should. Boost gauge goes up? (lol). Turbo reacts quite quickly, it was replaced with in the past few years (2-3 I think).

I really don't think it's sick, the guy that did the dyno agreed and they know their stuff. It is 16, it does have 170,000 miles on the engine. I appreciate your input

ould be worth checking two's advice too as hes been in with these cars much longer than me too.

also, two oh five do you think it could be a fueling problem?

i know that my mates 205 when he put on a blit access went down to only 220bhp is and it was all down to the obscene amount of fuel being put in.

could this be a cause of lack of power too even though on the stock ecu?... if it is stock, pull the passenger carpet back and look in the centre tunnel and read what the ecu has written on it.

more than likely is stock though to be fair

Look like a disable vsv with a bit of creep (even with an old cat we could experience that)to reach the 0,8b, which could explain the high rpm torque

Overall nice number for 170k miles turbo engine

I would look at both Two-Oh-Fives suggestions and bozo's.

I would also check the base timing to ensure that has been set correctly.

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1996 ST205 UK

Do you have dyno plots you can post, particularly showing boost vs RPM and AFR vs RPM.

My first thought was worn turbo as the ones I've experienced seem to lose bottom end efficiency first - however I see you've already had a new one (or was it secondhand & possibly worn ?)

as above regarding vsv possibly disabled. Also worth checking timing - and make sure you link E1 & TE1 while setting to 10 deg. If you can, also check cam timing as a notch out will tend to push peak torque/power up or down the rev range and could account for the skewed peak torque.

Regarding intakes, we did a test on a dyno run on a standard car. First with the airbox lid removed so air went straight in without filter or airbox and the power went up about 10BHP. We then replaced the lid but without the filter and the new line laid straight over the top of the +10BHP one. In my view this proves the standard airbox is not restrictive on a standard engine, and will provide the benefit of cool air going in which will increase power AND reduce likelihood of det. The key is to get a good flowing aftermarket panel filter to replace the restrictive (10BHP) standard one.

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