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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 1:44 am 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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As many of you will know, I have accumulated a large number of spare gearboxes and diffs over the last few years most of which are covered in a mixture of oil, road dirt and salt corrosion. Getting rid of the oil and road dirt should be fairly straightforward with gunk or similar degreaser, however, I would like to clean up the general appearance though by removing the surface corrosion and discolouring.

I have tried the wire brush approach including the drill mounted type but this is only partially effective as its difficult to get into all the nooks and crannies around the strengthening ribs on the gearbox/diff casing.

There seems to be a few products on the market which might do the trick: Alu Cure De-Oxidiser which is a 17% phosphoric/hydrochloric acid mix used by the trade. SV-35 PMA Aviation Paint stripper which is a benzyl alcohol based mix of non-embrittling acid and hydrogen peroxide. Another industrial strength alloy paint stripper is AS10 Aircraft Stripper. Fianlly there's RemovALL 520 which is used as a stripper in classic car restorations. The only problem with these are that they are 100% biodegradable and non-carcinogenic. This might seem like a good thing but in my experience to be really effective you really need the nastiest substance known to man which will kill or mutate any known life-forms (and probably the unknown ones from planet Zog too!) then YOU CAN BE REALLY CONFIDENT IT WILL DO THE JOB 100% :twisted: My Formula Ford team are currently restoring a '93 Swift and used the last of a very effective alloy cleaner. Unfortunately its now banned which kind of makes my point! :roll:

Seriously though, any suggestions on how to how to effectively clean aluminium castings would be much appreciated. I am excluding media blasting for the time being although I believe its very effective, mainly because I am trying to do as much myself at home rather than sending stuff off to specialists.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 2:18 pm 
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IMHo you will want an acid based product to remove the oxidised surface.

I haven't used it myself but to clean air conditioning heat exchanger coils/(similar to radiators in the automotive world) they use a form of hydroflouric acid. This is mainly to remove surface corrosion and and dirt/grease.

To save having lots of nasty fluid chemicals floating about you can get thsi stuff:- http://www.ryanairconspares.com/diversi ... p-768.html

Just be wary of any acid based products, they do nasty things to your skin and sometimes your gloves!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 3:04 pm 
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That looks interesting and worth a try. The HF acid option would have me worried though! I remember the horror stories from school and uni about people dissolving the bones in their fingers if they get a drop on their hands. Apparently it goes straight through the skin and flesh to attack the bone :shock:

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 3:58 pm 
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for acidic cleaning try caustic - oven cleaner on a test spot. No idea if it will work

grime/oil should respond well to traffic film remover (tfr)

I did mine with brake cleaner (5l tin from unipert, not aerosole) and scothchbrite - quite tedious


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 9:27 pm 
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My research on the interweb regarding oven cleaner used to clean ally castings was not good. Apparently there's a good chance it will turn the ally black :-(. Remedying this effect is a right PITA!

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Don
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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 10:17 pm 
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May i ask if the product that jp linked would be suitable for a fmic ?
Sorry don for butting in.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:12 am 
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Hi,

first i'am using a liquid to get clear of oil and dust and after that i wash the part with the liquid you use after welding, sorry i doesn't know the correct english word for it :(

this liquid is specific available for stainless which is more like a creme, and specific for alu which is a true liquid

i hope you'll can imagine from what i talk, the finish after that is like new :)

greetz

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:42 am 
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We need brand names! :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 3:58 pm 
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Hi,

tomorrow when i'am at work i'll do you pictures :)

i cleaned many of the gen.4 engine parts with that, also the piston you see in here

http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4195&start=30

greetz

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:56 pm 
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Thanks Sunny, if you can also let me know the name of the cleaner that would be much appreciated.

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:18 pm 
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Hi,

with that i clean for oil and dirt

Image

and with that i give the alu a new finish

Image

there a no further informations on the bottle but i think any alu-etchant will work (hope this is the right word for it)

greetz

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 4:31 pm 
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you could use some acid based wheel cleaner, i can get buckets of the stuff if you need it.. i think its called wheel bright

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:50 pm 
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If you dont take up Robs offer i have a few spare 5ltr tubs of ally acid we use at work similar to what robs on about but stronger you need a mask but its good i can leave it with Nigel for you.this is what it did to my inlet mani
Image


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:30 pm 
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Looks good, PM sent :)

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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