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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 2:14 pm
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Location: sunny sleaford- lincolnshire
Car Model: ST205
does anyone know anything of this coolant?

it could be very good for gtfours with suffering localised boiling after trackdays if it works like it says on the tin, 180degree boiling point.. what do you think??

http://evanscooling.uk.com/performance.html


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:17 pm 
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Adrian has used this on his Fensport Gen 7 Celica with some success. The only downside is I believe you need to avoid contaminating it with water so you really need to completely drain the system before you fill with Evans. This is difficult to do with the engine in the car and plumbed into the heater matrix etc. I don't know if it can tolerate being mixed with a small amount of water. It may be that the water simply reduces the effectiveness by lowering the boiling point of the coolant.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:37 pm 
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Location: sunny sleaford- lincolnshire
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good stuff then.. i thought as much wih the water and i found this on their site...

http://evanscooling.uk.com/prepfluid.html

must be the way to avoid such happening?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 4:13 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
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I would research this for a long time before I decided to put it in my engine.

The main selling point they make is that the boiling point is 180 deg C and seem to suggest that means its great.

However limestone's boiling point is far higher however I would not want to be shovelling parts of the south downs into my radiator.

I would have thought that its the specific heat capacity (cability to absorb heat) that would be most important. They actually state in their text that the engine will likely run hotter using their coolant.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 5:31 pm 
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Location: sunny sleaford- lincolnshire
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hmmm yeah i see your point there.. the 3s-gte runs hot at the best of times so making it run hotter would be a downside in the first place just to give it some extra boiling point.

maybe best just to stick with red forlife and a swirl pot then!!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 5:55 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
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I think it will depend on what the problem is that is trying to be remedied by using the coolant.

Personally I think a well setup cooling system as you've said with swirlpot etc will be a better (although more expensive) solution.

One my car is back on the road in the summer and hopefully I can do a trackday or two it will be interesting to look at the temperatures again. Running a Koyo rad, TRD thermostat and an additional oil cooler I have never had any issues with high temperatures. I think that the additional oil cooler really helps with the water temp as it takes a big load of the water cooling system (donut).

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 6:27 pm 
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Location: sunny sleaford- lincolnshire
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i have to say that i have not got a swirl pot setup, i have done countless trackdays in the middle of summer and also winter, 16 laps of the nurburgring and the temperature was about 30 degrees too and never had any problems with coolant, its just so many people seem to have problems and also people seem to swear that half the reasons for blown blocks is the coolant so wanted to know what people thought.

i run the stock rad (new) and a TRD stat and never had a problem in the past, although would like the koyo rad due to the extra coolant really.

i too however want to get a oil cooler fitted at some point just for safety as the car has now racked up 130k miles and it gets some serious hammer on track so anything to keep the car happy i am looking at doing really.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:15 pm 
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Hi,

i just can give you the same tip as a ex-TTE gives me, never ever developed a better cooling fuild then water

i droved EVANS in my chargecooler years ago but gives it a kick and changed to water again, i now drive a 1:1,5/Glysantin:Water mix with 2% Millers Extra Cool as additive (also in the engine)
the issue of water is not the water itself but the alcohol which reduces the heat transfer and the specific heat capacity both characteristics are important to transport heat long and good

let me know if you need NPG+ i should have some bottles in stock iirc

greetz

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:34 pm 
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Best solution for localised boiling on cool-down is use of a pressurised header tank system. This maintains pressure as the coolant shrinks, the standard system doesn't.

Best solution for boiling after switch-off is an electric water pump plus timer.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:27 pm 
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Location: sunny sleaford- lincolnshire
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i always do 2 laps of the track for cool down using minimal throttle to try keep it cool but i think in the near future i shall think about going onto a header tank and swirl pot setup.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:46 pm 
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I did a bit of research into the Evans coolant a few years back and have forgotten most of it!

IIRC it is also higher viscosity than standard water or coolant mix and hence imposes more of a resistance on the mechanical or electric water pump (probably thereby reducing flow).

The main plus point is that it is unlikely to boil and hence unlikely to create hot spots where gas bubbles are created near to the cylinder wall (cracked block anyone due to thermal gradient across the bore wall?)

I think I found it was also more likely to generate cavitation with it being more viscous - cavitation is a strange beast that generates extreme localised heat and can even generate light as the bubble collapses - A friend was doing his doctorate in this at Uni and used to send me to sleep talking about it so I apologise if I have recalled bits wrong.

IMHO standard non corrosive coolant, swirl pot & header tank with an electric water pump configured to run on after engien switch off is the perfect solution. Don I believe has also done his research and has come to the same conclusion.

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