On the 165, and 185, you can with certain mods, get everything adjustable.
If you lower the car in its ride height this will have an effect on the camber and toe reading, both front and rear axles, the castor values seem to stay the same, give or take a bit, depends how low you go. Little note, low is not always the best route especially if you use the four on public roads, also the angle of the suspension arm has an optimum set-up, going to far either side will cause funny characteristics in the handling department.
Now I don’t know much about the gt4, apart from what I have played with, these models are the 165, 185, have yet to play with a 205 properly.
I use accelerometers to show values of G force under cornering, as well as acceleration, this way I can measure any improvements gains.
It seems that the stock setting are for stock driving, massive under steer, with narrow track and low castor, this is a safe set-up, it will not induce to much rear end drifting, and for most is ok.
Now if you like to have the rear out under a controlled manner, with a good acting front for steering, and not to much power on under steer, you need to revise the complete set-up.
For a car to handle in my book you need to understand some rules.
If a car handles well in a straight line it will be rubbish going round bends, plain and simple.
If you have low power, you have a set-up for bends, under braking etc
if you have lots of power , you need a set-up that will allow you to get the power down early. Round corners and out etc.
My experience with some rally & circuit racing set-ups, shows that this is most probably harder to do, than mapping the ecu.
For any suspension improvement, first thing is to change the standard bushes with aftermarket up rated sort.
HOWEVER, DO NOT change the rear control arm rubberised spherical bearing bushes.
Any fitment of poly bushes here will induce poor handling, and for those of you who disagree, I have proof, so come down and see me, I will show you on my CCD exact 6000 as used in motor sport teams, this unit makes the standard wheel aligners as used in most tyre shops look like a child’s toy.
After bushes and bearing have been suitable improved, the next step would be the springs with shocks, preferred route coil over’s as you can adjust height & dampening affect, then the ARB’s, top adjustable mounts camber/castor, with camber bolts etc for front and rear if needed.
Once you can adjust the perimeters of the vehicle geometry you can start with the set-up.
Now different driving styles require different set-ups.
If you use the car on the road, then a track day set up would not be the best thing to use, a road set-up used on a track, yet again will show for poor handling
A compromise can be had.
An increase of castor , with a static reading of –1.5 to 2.0 camber.
toe depending on the driving style, the four runs very little stock, , toe in helps from midway apex out of a bend, toe out will help change of direction at the start of the turn, but has poor properties after the turn has been completed, both have to be blended with other settings.
Depending on body roll, anti roll bars, spring weight, all these will have a big change on the out come, what is used on one car, will not mean its any good on another, unless the same hardware used.
I have some settings for the 165, 185 on the wheel aligner computer, will get them on the lap top, and post a few.
I can offer full conerweighting and 4 wheel alignment if required.
this was a very over steery setup as used , you can see the vehicle data base to the right.some slight suspension damage , causing some Variance in setup readings, most vehicles get a little bent over time.
this is what the machine looks like
calibrating the metering heads
vehicle data base
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