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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:29 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:29 am
Posts: 447
Location: Up North
Car Model: ST205
I am in two minds about rebuilding the rear differential.

I dont really want to as rebuilding it looks a bit complicated, but, a.) its rusty and needs sand blasting, painting etc. and b.) there is some "in\out" movement on the axel stubs that attach to the rear drive shafts.

should there be any in/out movement?

Can anyone give me some advice on how to rebuild the rear diff (I'm sure someone has done one recently?)

or if its really worth it? It would be good to have everything as good as it can be, but I dont have alot of spare cash to go and replace bearings/seals etc if I dont need to.

Thanks

Nial

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
Posts: 3679
Location: Bournemouth
Car Model: None
From my own experience, in/out play on the 2 axle flanges is normal. They are normally spung inwards by the driveshafts as the inner CV's have springs built in.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 8:30 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 6:46 pm
Posts: 139
Location: North Yorkshire
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
I have a spare ST185 CS diff Nial

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:06 am
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Unless it is broken I'd just get it sandblasted and repainted.

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:18 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:29 am
Posts: 447
Location: Up North
Car Model: ST205
I went with the paint it and forget about it option :)

Although there is some in out movement on the axel stubs...a few 10ths of a mm.....is that normal?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:29 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:44 pm
Posts: 4067
Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
The output flanges are held in by the same circle clip arrangement as those on the gearbox so a bit of in out play is to be expected.

Its pretty easy to pop the cover and check the axial play in the output gears and the sun wheel tooth contact (you'll need engineers blue to do that). Reshimming the output drive is easy. Reshimming the tooth contact requires a b.f.o press to remove the input shaft. Sadly all the bearings are Toyota specific - they are available from Toyota but hugely expensive at circa 100 plus vat trade (each). I tried all my usual suppliers without joy
Shims were a handful of sheets each, not too scary
All the specs and test procedures are in the BGB, you need a DTI gauge, vernier/micrometer and some way of improvising a pull torque gauge to do up the nose input nut - you'll see what I mean if you read the bgb - input shaft but needs to be tightened until a certain rotational torque figure is achieved if you do undo it


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:44 pm
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Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
The guts of it.

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You can see the output stub axles complete with the circlip groove and the two shims used to set axial play


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