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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:58 pm 
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The one that caused me the most grief was remembering I had to NOT acknowledge receipt after reading the first byte if I didn't want a second to follow. It all worked fine with hyperterminal (one byte every so often, so no data to follow), then when I started chucking data at full speed from the custom software it all locked up.
I still have one problem to overcome, the module is powered from the USB and when the PC is unplugged it drags the I2C bus lines down with it. I will need to modify the module (oh joy, more surface mount) so it will power from the digidash instead, or maybe power from either via diodes.

p.s. - parallel ports on PC's are so last year :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:53 pm 
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But your PCs are so last century :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 12:24 pm 
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Oddly enough this popped up when I uploaded my vid just now

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LnKhUWst8I


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 9:45 pm 
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Chris, been doing the 'Carter loop' on the gauges front, came across the HKS camp system.
Sounds a bit *bleep*, but does some/most/all that you are contemplating I think.
All you would need (from what I can tell) is a suitable display of your choice eg a cheap tablet??

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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 10:14 pm 
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Ok scratch the above.
I have been given some enlightenment about odb1 and odb2 ecu's.

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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 10:48 pm 
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Just done a quick google on it. As you say, it works primarily from OBD2 but has an optional interface for extra signals (similar to my main unit in other words).

bearing in mind it needs a 'monitor' I'm not sure what it achieves that you can't do with a £10 ebay bluetooth/OBD and a tablet running torque or similar.

One of the scanarios for my system is using the 'main box' to provide an interface from sensors to OBD2, allowing older cars to drive the popular obd/bluetooth/tablet setup.
From my own viewpoint, I don't want a tablet or smartphone as my gauge display as these will always be removed from the car when parked and normally wind up looking like a lash up with charger cables hanging about.

Unfortunately progress is a little slow on this project as I picked up a 2day/week contract from late Feb onwards so much less spare time. I have just sent off a revised front panel for manufacture with some other boards I'm getting done to see what it looks like. I'll post up piccies when it arrives.

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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 8:16 pm 
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Investigating standard ECU information so I can read the ECU sensors with a high impedance 0-5V input rather having to run separate sensors.

Temperature sensors - all pulled to Vc (+5V) via 2K7 resistor with sensor down to ground as per convention. Applys to THW, THA, THAM

From experience with Link G3 ECU, the Toyota sensors match the Bosch standard resistance - temperature. - The link defaults to Bosch standard and the readings of water temperature followed my own gauge within a couple of degrees from midwinter temperatures up to boiling. So:

http://www.bosch.com.au/content/languag ... rature.pdf
http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/pdf/sens ... _m12-h.pdf

2.5K at 20C, so the ECU is optimised to read most accurately at approx. 20C


RPM is just 5V pulse at IGT, 2 pulses per revolution, approx 2-3mS.

Speed - I know I've measured it and posted the result for someone but I'm b****d if the search can find it. Will update when I've measured it again.


Hoping to get one running in the hairdresser express before the event on the 16th June, particularly to monitor charge and water temperatures.

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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 8:02 pm 
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Yep don't forget the ecu is a licensed version of Bosch l-jetronic. So id put money most hardware is using a reference design spec on sensors etc.

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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 10:09 pm 
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Bosch L-Jetronic is based on AFM tech so presumably if Toyota licensed it this would relate only to the ST185?

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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 3:36 pm 
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I had a sample 'PCB front panel' made along with some other PCB's I have going through at the moment in order to give an idea of what I've got in mind plus to give an artist an insight in to what sort of effects can be done. Whether I go this way or membrane, I'll get an artist to come up with the final design.

I made a mistake and forget to get the green 'solder mask' layer left off the 'bezel' areas. The intention was to have silver surrounds to buttons, display & SD slot. I scraped it off the button surrounds as I had to do a bit of 'adjustment' anyway but did a bit of damage doing so.

I'm rather disapointed with the illuminated buttons, I was expecting a diffused light over the whole front wheras in reality you get a roundish spot with bits missing where it's shaded by the mechanism. It actually looks better in the photo than in real life.

Image

Image

To give some idea of the effect, this is the 'joystick' panel we make for one of our electric vehicles.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 11:29 pm 
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Having a serious lack of enthusiasm for pulling the MR2 engine apart plus a bad back today, I spent a few hours on the software. It's now basically working (apart from calibrating for bosch temperature sensors) enough to install in my cars for some serious testing.

A-D converter now working (so complex it took me an hour or so going through the data sheets).
Added the decimal point to the number display (I never bothered on my own one).
Shuffled the display around to show channel title and value on top line plus bargraph on the bottom line. Unfortunately they have a gap between characters on the display so the bar appears as blocks rather than a solid line. I should have a hunt to see if I can find a graphic display the same size.

Image

The title + value on a single line will meake it easy and natural to show 2 sensors on the display at once as an option instead of the bargraph.

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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 11:42 pm 
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The consensus at the curry meet was a thumbs down for the PCB front panel I think - a shame as it is the easiest & cheapest option by far. It worries me as to how the SD slot will work with a membrane as they tend to lift on exposed edges especially with things dragging across the edge. It also costs a lot of money to set up a punch for making accurate holes.

One thought is to retain the PCB and buttons as above but add a few more silk screen layers in various colours so it wouldn't appear any different to an ali. front panel. I think I will discuss with an artist before making any final decisions.

One other set of opinions needed - keeping the buttons as they are or grouping them together like a joypad on one side and shifting the display across so it's not central ?

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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 12:15 am 
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Chris you should have said I would have poped over to give you a hand takein the Mr2 heart apart I'm getting withdraw symptoms of not getting my hands dirty :(


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 8:26 am 
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Doh :oops: , missed this on Friday otherwise I'd have given some feedback at the curry meet. Never mind, I guess its all part of R&D.

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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 11:01 pm 
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IMHO buttons arranged in joystick configuration.

I don't mind the look of a nice PCB and from a deisgn perspective I think a few improvements can be made.
1) the PCB colour IMHo looks very old school - The blue & black PCB I think are more attractive.
black:- Image
blue:- Image

I am not sure on the impact of this WRT cost or suppliers.

2) Font - I assume this is a standard font that seems to be used in CAD by default. Are others possible?

3) design - I think this needs to be function and form. It also needs to say have a logo and the button labels.

Some of the effects you can produce are not bad tbh so there maybe some mileage in it.
Image

At present it looked like the front panel had been left off which I suspect had quite an impact on the response.

I have searched for pretty PCB/used as front panel and not found any examples, have you seen it done before?

The blue/gold could be a popular choice for scooby guys!

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