Right conundrum time.. ready? After having new st205 box and clutch fitted to my st185 roadtested and signed off as "fixed by a mechanic used for a day.. now have no power to half the fusebox in engine bay. The 6 small fuses and some on relays.. car cut out after a small blip off the lights.. and I mean small it was a clio. I got abit of boost then all of a sudden massive backfire as engine died.. pulled over played with fuses and stereo and interior lights cake back on and off I went until 2 minutes later the same happened while I was moving. Got into a carpark and looked in vain to find one ecu-ign fuse blown inside.. replaced that.. now have no headlights no stereo no interior lights door lights and no engine management light .. car will crank but produce no spark but will dump fuel in. Everything else on dash looks normal except when cranking the rpm counter wont lift..please hellllpppppp

I would guess that the wiring loom wasn't secured properly and has cut on a sharp edge with engine movement. Have a careful inspection of the loom in the engine bay and see if there's any sign of damage or unconnected wires hanging down into the workings..
other thing to check is the big earth wire from battery to engine is connected and tight both ends. Ditto the smaller one to the body.
ill have a check of the circuits tomorro for a common fuse. I suspect it may be the big alt fuse that unsrews from underneath.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

I forget if the ST185 fusebox is the same as the 205 but I'd immediately suspect that the plugs were not correctly inserted into the fusebox if it was a 205. There's also a big loom bundle attached to the gearbox in line with the passenger side suspension turret

Something in the main circuit opening relay area perhaps Chris?

One thing that strikes me - no CEL + no rpm indicates no ECU power but apparent fuel during cranking seems at odds with this unless it's the cold start injector

PS
I just deleted your other post to try and keep everything easier to find

Have looked at wiring loom for damage and looked for broken wires but everything still has wrapping around it that's undamaged. Anywhere that was damaged I checked and nothing was broken... earth straps look ok and are tight.. and the slow blow 100 amp alt fuse is still intact :-S

If it were me I would pull the main fusebox and check the state of the connectors. I've seen plenty of melty horror stories down there and it's entirely possible that old corroded connections were disturbed during the swap process.
Also run through the under bonnet fuseboxes and pull out each fuse and relay in turn. Check contacts for signs of distress/corrosion

Do you know if the engine was removed to fit the new box?

Given the "played with fuses and all came good for a short time" that's where I would concentrate my efforts first

I'd spotted the fuel inconsistancy, but had forgotten about the cold start injector on the 185. I've just found it for the first time in the circuit diagram next to the starter motor. I hadn't realised it is only active during cranking, powered by the feed to the starter.

For referance, I'll make a list of fuses and what is driven through them (taken from the circuit diagram) Have a check on which circuits are and aren't working and compare against the list of fuses below. From the number of circuits not working, sounds like AM1 or AM2 gone. These are both big square fuses in the main fusebox.

100A 'ALT'
Alternator main power output. (big terminal on back)
Plus all circuits via 'AM1'
Plus all circuits via 30A 'DEF'
Plus all circuits via 'FOG'
Plus all circuits via 40A 'HEATER'
Plus all circuits via 'TAIL'

40A 'AM1'
Starter (signal connection via key)
Cold start injector
Plus all circuits via 'CIG & RADIO'
Plus all circuits via 'ECUIG'
Plus all circuits via 15A 'GAUGE'
Plus all circuits via 20A 'POWER'
Plus all circuits via 15A 'TURN'
Plus all circuits via 20A 'WIPER'

30A 'AM2'
Plus all circuits via 'IGN'
Fuel injectors (need ECU powered to work)
Ign. coil and igniter. (need ECU powered to work)

15A 'CIG & RADIO'
Cig lighter.
Radio
Auto aerial (has other feeds)

30A 'DEF'
Defogger (not including switch illumination)

20A 'DOME'
Boot light.
Door warning light (dash)
Door courtesy lights.
Ignition key light
Interior lights.
Clock.
Auto aerial (has other feeds)

15A 'ECUIG'
One alternator control feed.
Feed to retract control relay (not sure which function as also another feed to same relay)
Auto aerial (has other feeds)

15A 'EFI'
ECU permanent feed (retains memory)
(Enabled via 7.5A 'IGN') Fuel pump.
(Enabled via 7.5A 'IGN') ECU main power (will enable check engine light)
(Enabled via 7.5A 'IGN') Power for TVSV,TVIS,Idle valve.

20A 'FOG'
Fog lamps including switch illumination.

15A 'GAUGE'
Check engine light. (ecu also needs power to switch this on)
Seat belt warning.
Reversing lights
Defogger switch incl. light.
Door lock ECU (has another feed too)
Auto tilt steering (has another feed too)
Most dash gauges and warning lamps.

15A 'HAZ HORN'
Horns.
Hazard lights. (incl. dash illumination).

15A 'HEAD LH'
Left hand headlamp bulb. (incl. high beam indicator)

15A 'HEAD RH'
Right hand headlamp bulb. (incl. high beam indicator)

40A 'HEATER'
Cabin blower motor

7.5A 'IGN'
Alternator warning lamp.
Feed to switch on ECU via relay plus it's own fuse

20A 'POWER'
Power windows (incl. sun roof) (enabled via 'gauge fuse')
Door lock ECU (has another feed too)
Auto tilt steering (has another feed too)

30A 'RTR'
Feed to retract control relay (not sure which function as also another feed to same relay)

15A 'TAIL'
Sidelights.
Tail lights
Number plate light.
Light reminder warning (one of several feeds)
Instrument lighting - dash,ash tray,Hazzard sw., fog light sw., defogger sw., cig. lighter, heater controls, clock.

15A 'TURN'
Indicator lights. incl. dash illumination.

20A 'WIPER'
Wipers
Washers.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Fuses don't generally blow for no reason. I suspect a wire for something has been left disconnected and is dangling among something moving, most likely gear cables or gearchange mechanism. Did the engine cut during a gearchange ?

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

You may find it useful to download the genuine Toyota workshop manual. Circuits are at the end.

http://www.cdd.co.uk/stuff/90ST185.pdf

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Yeah it happened when changing from first to second. I have no idea what to do with electrics.. fusebox doesn't look bad apart from scratches on top.. apart from that the underside of it doesn't look to bad underneath..loom looks same as it did when it was it worked

Have a look down at the gear linkage are for wires caught in the levers. This is passenger side back of the engine bay (you may need to remove air filter box if you have one)
It's the moving bits round the green arrow in this picture (best I could find unfortunately)

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Is it easier for you to call me chris? As you seem to have a better idea than me. My number is 07789834984

The 'Toyota book way' of removing the engine is to take out the engine wiring loom with the engine. This involves unplugging at the back of the ECU (behind centre console, access via passenger footwell, pull back carput flap behind centre console) and pulling the wires out through the bulkhead (also involves removal of glove box area). It also involves splitting the fusebox and removing part of it with the loom.

I would contact the garage and tell them what's happened. They will know which bits they disturbed and may have a clue as to where the problem may lie. Also show them this thread as it may contain useful information for them.

If it helps, I'll be coming past Yeovil Sunday morning for the Exmoor meet, but won't have time to stop, and will probably come back that way in the evening. You're welcome to have a lift & join us, and/or I can have a look at the car in the evening (as long as it's not raining)

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

My mobile phone is currently out of action (vodafone ongoing network problem) but you're welcome to ring me on 01258 857177 (Chris)

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Resistor packs in their normal mounting place on the end of the battery tray support.



I tried to find a pic. of the ECU Earth under the inlet manifold, but google didn't deliver. The view was obscured on the best I found.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.