Okay, hope they are kilo ohms not plain ohms. Look a bit suspect to me.

The boiling water one is out of spec of the ST205 bgb figures.



The two air and water temp say 0.6kilo ohms is nicely in the 60.c temp range.
long way off the typical engine coolant running temp of 80.c which should be in range of 0.2 to 0.4 kilo ohms. And 100.c should be even lower.

I'm right in thinking yours is a rev 3 engine ?

--
Darryl

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--

Darryl

The Toyota sensors are give or take standard Noah temperature curve. Refer to last page or 2 of digi dash thread for look up table as cross check.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Hi Darryl, taken the readings again using my Fluke DVM this time.

Ambient :- 2.316K OHms

Fridge :- 3.89K Ohms

Freezer :- 17.98K Ohms

Boiling Water :- .618K Ohms

All look to be with in the spec, Im yet to try the stock st165 Toyota Efi sensor which is currently fitted to the engine

My Engine is a Rev2

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

the boiling water figures are still out Steve.

I assume your "efi temp sensor" is a water temp sensor and not manifold air temp sensor?

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

The test was conducted with a Water Temp EFi sensor and consisted of boiling the kettle, pouring the water into an egg cup holder and plonking the sensor in.
Re-reading the Toyota figures it seems this sensor is indeed off and at the resistance of 0.618K Ohms with Boiling water its telling the ecu that the water temp is only around 60'

I have looked up the readings for an st165 Water Temp EFi sensor and they are 100% the same..

This El-Cheapo water temp sensor is El Shaggedo

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

By the time the heat has been shared with the egg cup and sensor, it was probably about 50-60C so probably about right.

http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/pdf/sens ... _m12-h.pdf

Get a saucepan simmering with the sensor in and try again.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Yep try it actively boiling.

The air and water have the same resistance to temp measurements.

--
Darryl

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--

Darryl

Ok not updated this recently so here goes!

I purchased a genuine Toyota Efi temperature sensor in the end so I know where I'm at.

I have since returned to SRR for Ryan to take a look at the car on the rollers
He started off doing some map checks against what he had on record and decided to carry out some runs off boost to monitor fuelling, battery voltage etc and did this for 5 to 10 minutes maintains revs and speed

He was keen to try and work out what has changed since the initial map was set-up

In the end he ended up adding 15% more fuel into the map and has suggested I look at the alternator and fuel pump.
Not a permanent fix but potentially safer than it as been!

I have done some more monitoring of voltages and have found some concerning results!

Cold start/normal driving I see 13.6 Volts at the ECU (Viewed through the hand commander)
On boost this voltage DROPS to 13.2Volts! Again at the ECU.

Alternator voltage 14.15Volts

Fuel pump voltage cold start up/normal driving 13.20Volts
Fuel pump on boost DROPS to 12.77 and at times a little less!?




Swapped out the Alternator (Spare, used, unit from my shed)

Cold start I see 14.3 Volts at the ECU (Viewed through the hand commander) this voltage does drop to 13.6 after several miles and everything has warmed up, I believe this is normal? Or perhaps something is braking down with heat?
On boost this voltage does NOT drop at all and remains at 13.6Volts

Alternator showed 15.1volt on cold start up settling to around 14.15Volts which climbs as the boost and revs rise.

Fuel pump voltage cold start up/Normal driving is around 13.65Volts
Fuel pump on boost is still dropping to around 13.1Volts.




The fuel pump is wired through a relay in the boot and connected to the battery in the boot, only old wiring I'm using is from the fuel pump relay wiring as the signal wire.

Now if my ageing Walbro pump was getting tired is this a reason for the voltage dropping as it is drawing more current?
I'm sure the pump is 10 years old +?

I think it's fair to say the original alternator has had it!
Are the above voltages roughly what people are seeing!



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_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Where are you measuring fuel pump voltage ?

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Not on the rolling road but the above voltages were taken the day after so I see no reason for them to be different?


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_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

I think Chris meant whereabouts on the car?

_________________
GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Ok got ya
Fuel pump voltage is being measured at the pump, wiring connector.


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_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Looking at some of my old logs I'm seeing 14.1-14.2 at the ECU

Do you have cold air ducting on the alternator?
I have noticed on mine that despite what everyone tends to say I see a significant voltage drop on mine when I remove this. It's in the order of what you see, a cold 14.4V drops down to 13.9ish as measured on my turbo timer. I don't consider this normal, more likely some overheat control kicking in internally to the alternator

The voltage drops look a bit big all round really but especially the fuel pump. Is the power feed wired direct to battery terminals (albeit through a relay) for both power and ground or are you using the ferric oxide/chassis for the ground connection
If you disconnect the pump and force the relay to switch on (not sure if the 165 has a FP terminal in the diagnostic port) what voltages do you see at the wiring connector

The voltage drop to the fuel pump will be along the wire from battery via relay to fuel pump. I assume this is an aftermarket relay ? What thickness is this wire and how long ?

Either way, you say you're getting full fuel pressure so it shouldn't be an issue.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Cable is around one meter and slightly bigger than the stock wires?
Pos and neg are into the relay/Battery.
Am I right in thinking there is a difference with fuel pump flow and pressure?
Meaning I may be getting good pressure but poor flow?

If the pump was failing and drawing more current than it should that could be a possible cause for seeing the voltage drop?
I will also monitor battery voltage at the same time as Fuel pump voltage.

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk