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 Post subject: Gen4 coil on plug specs
PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:02 pm 
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Hi folks

Does anyone know the ecu specs from the gen.4 cops

Iam glad for help tomorrow we map my enine and it looks like i missing
that

Greeds[code][/code]

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 7:25 pm 
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viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5962&hilit=dwell+time

Quote:
ST215 coils:

http://www.mrm-racing.se/forum/showthread.php?t=1652

Take trigger line high for dwell time, spark on negative edge. Dwell times as follows:

8V 6.3 ms
9V 5.3 ms
10V 4.4 ms
11V 3.8 ms
12V 3.2 ms
13V 2.7 ms
14V 2.4 ms
15V 2.2 ms


Re. 1zz-FE (and others)

http://www.motec.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=374

Quote:
Here are the Toyota part numbers for the 1ZZ-FE coil pack connectors:

! x Connector: 90980-11885
Pins (x4): 82998-12440
Toyota connector pins with 160mm wire - Toyota P/N 82998-12340 (USD $4.43 each)
I have not used these, so I do not know how many are required - likely 4 per.

The dwell should be set as follows:
8V 6.3 ms
9V 5.3 ms
10V 4.4 ms
11V 3.8 ms
12V 3.2 ms
13V 2.7 ms
14V 2.4 ms
15V 2.2 ms



http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forum ... -7098.html

Quote:
Source vehicles and part numbers from left to right:

90919-02227 ST215 Caldina 3SGTE
90919-02230 GXE10 Altezza AS200/Lexus IS200 1GFE vvt-i
90919-02239 ZZE120 Corolla 1ZZFE
90919-02240 NZE121 Corolla 2NZFE
90919-02236 SXE10 Altezza RS200 3SGE Beams dual vvt-i

Other coils that I have used a bit which aren't pictured are 2AZFE Camry and 1NZFE. Both of these are longer types, whcih are useful in certain motor like porsches and jags where you need extra reach. Similar in length to the GXE10 ones pictured above.


These coils have the igniter built in. This igniter fires on the falling edge of a 5V square wave. Dwell times between 2 and 3 msec work fine. They are extremely rugged and reliable (not including a few recallss etc Toyota conducted, which I believe were all to do with Indonesian made coils, not denso Japan).


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 7:48 pm 
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Sunny, I shall be following this with great interest! Have ordered the 1ZZ-FE coil on plug conversion kit from RacerX minus the crank trigger wheel and sensor which has already been fitted as part of the track toy engine build.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 10:36 pm 
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Hi,

thanks a lot 8)
don, that means we have a compare able syste, except the sensors
i'll try to gave you any feedback you need

greetz

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 4:10 pm 
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Hi,

any tips how i can make the cops working together with the rpm meter of the cluster?

currently i am useing this wiring but without success

Image

greetz

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 5:02 pm 
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Where it says 'spark A', 'spark B' etc. should be going to the 'trigger' input of the COP (cop will have +12, E, and trigger).

Ditch the zener, no Idea why that's there - you only have a 5V pulse it will never get through a 15V zener so it wouldn't work.

You may also need a resistor from the tacho input to earth as a pull-down - depends on the input circuit of the tacho. 1K would seem a sensible value.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 8:51 pm 
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Sunny wrote:
Hi,

any tips how i can make the cops working together with the rpm meter of the cluster?



Do you have any available output on your Haltech ecu?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 9:03 pm 
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TrackToyFour wrote:
Have ordered the 1ZZ-FE coil on plug conversion kit from RacerX

Do you have a link to this please Don :?:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 9:08 pm 
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Muddy Water wrote:
TrackToyFour wrote:
Have ordered the 1ZZ-FE coil on plug conversion kit from RacerX

Do you have a link to this please Don :?:



http://www.racerxfabrication.com/ignition.html

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 9:30 pm 
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Hi,

got the problem, the signal pin is ground switched, a new electronic takes place instead and then it should work
the only problem is that i need a further +12V outside the wiring tree, not that problem but hate to do this as i wish one clean wiring tree :( :)

greetz

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 10:32 pm 
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Wolf_Tm wrote:
Muddy Water wrote:
TrackToyFour wrote:
Have ordered the 1ZZ-FE coil on plug conversion kit from RacerX

Do you have a link to this please Don :?:



http://www.racerxfabrication.com/ignition.html

Just received the kit today. I was quite impressed with the service almost as soon as I made the order on their web site I got an email checking that I didn't need the crank trigger wheel. This was on a Saturday evening. I replied and got a response on the Sunday. Amazing! The only downside was HMRC stinging me for the duty :(

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 11:57 pm 
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Sunny wrote:
Hi,

got the problem, the signal pin is ground switched, a new electronic takes place instead and then it should work
the only problem is that i need a further +12V outside the wiring tree, not that problem but hate to do this as i wish one clean wiring tree :( :)

greetz


When you say the signal is ground switched, do you mean the tacho input is normally pulled high internally and expects to be pulsed down to ground ?

If so, you don't need 12V - just an NPN transistor (e.g. ZTX450) with emitter to ground, collector to tacho, and base to the common point of the diodes above via a resistor (1K should work ok)

----D|-----
................|
----D|-----
................|........................C
----D|-----.....................______ to tacho
................|.............B..|/
----D|-----------/\/\/\-------|
.......................1K........|\ E
....................................|
..................................GND

(hopefully is understandable)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 11:38 am 
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Hi,

i can follow you nearly, but do you have a better drawing for me :)
the ST205 rpm gauge isn't given me any voltage i can work with! so i need any voltage to pulse it, looks like the gauge itself ain't have any pullup

greetz

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:05 pm 
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If you have a meter, measure the voltage on the gauge input with nothing connected and with the gauge switched on.

If the voltage is low (below 2V) then connect your original circuit minus the zener (i.e. 4 diodes) directly to the input. You may need a pull-down resistor (1K should do) to ground also.

If the voltage is high (above 3V) then use the transistor as above. You may need a pull-up resistor (1K should do) to +12 on the gauge input (this can be done at the gauge where you have +12 available)

Basically, the COP have a high pulse about 3mS long each time they fire. The diodes will pass this so the at the common point you have a 5V 3mS pulse each time any of them fire. If the gauge is expecting negative pulses, then you use the NPN transistor, this conducts from collector to emitter when you apply current in to the base, so feed the 5V pulse via a current limiting resistor (1K) in to the base so the transistor pulls the gauge input low each time there is a pulse.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:48 pm 
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Hi,

thanks nibbles, will discuss this with my project manager electronics :D

greetz

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