Hi,

i think that i can follow you, we did it like you said, each cop is switching 12V down over a resistor, but i think here is the problem, changing the resistor against a coil
could work to get a higher voltage or i have a look to the combi meter electronic for a better seight of things

but to bussy to got that problem solved that weekend

greetz

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Hi,

not solved yet, but the next electronic is ready to try in the next few days, not we use PNP transistor and use the coils to trigger him.....if it works i post can post a draw for a do it yourself job if in need

nibbles, now i understand you, you means to use the ecu output line for the rpm meter?

greetz

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-----sry

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Dear Sunny,
It's almost ONE MONTH I'm asking you if you have an available ecu output.
Why do you have to contact me privately on this issue, if then you don't reply to my message here?

Guys, do you see my messages in this thread or am I the only one?

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Wolf_Tm
TM 250 enduro 2 stroke
GT-four ST205 Snowy White with selfmade 3SGTE v4.1 - [2.34kg/bhp DynoDynamics]
http://www.youtube.com/WolfTm250
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Dear Sunny,
It's almost ONE MONTH I'm asking you if you have an available ecu output.
Why do you have to contact me privately on this issue, if then you don't reply to my message here?

Guys, do you see my messages in this thread or am I the only one?




There was another thread a while ago on the issue, and it seems there isn't an available output for this function.

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Sorry, I missed this post.

Yes indeed, I was planning on using the drive signal from ECU to injector.

If you are saying the injectors have an extra 'tacho' output which pulls to ground, then you should be able to use these with a diode on each (bar towards injector) and a pull-up resistor (1K or 4K7) to 12V on the tacho. No transistor needed.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Oh, at last... not the OP but... thanks.

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Wolf_Tm
TM 250 enduro 2 stroke
GT-four ST205 Snowy White with selfmade 3SGTE v4.1 - [2.34kg/bhp DynoDynamics]
http://www.youtube.com/WolfTm250
http://www.facebook.com/wolf.tm

Hi,

sorry, looks like i missed that PM

yes i can programm a output from the ecu, with a coil or by eliminating the resistor in the rpm-meter it should work

thats plan B now, currently i must work with the cops to drive the meter, i don't allow me that i can't can made it working that way

greetz

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Hi,

just an updated, i just changed the 43kOhm resistor in the rpm gauge against a 120Ohm and now i use the 5V tacho channel on the haltech to controll the meter, pretty simple


greetz

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Finally solved the mystery of the Coil on Plug kit parts supplied by RacerX in the USA.

RacerX didn't supply any fitting instructions but how difficult could it be? I naively assumed that the kit parts replaced the dizzy with a cam trigger sensor. When I couldn't work it out I emailed Jeff at RacerX and he sent me a link to his thread on the MR2OC forum. You need to be registered to view but sadly this is nowhere near as easy as our DC forum ....however with some help from JP I have found a wealth of info on the site. It appears that the original COP kit cam trigger has been replaced with a blanking plug to replace the entire distributor assembly. The fact they'd included an alloy dizzy cap in the kit led me astray. There is no need for this if you use the blanking plug.

The cam trigger Cherry Hall sensor in the updated kit is now mounted on the alloy bracket bolted to the drivers side engine mount and the slotted disc is mounted on the exhaust cam timing wheel. The only problem is the engine mount on the ST205 is completely different to the MR2 so you can't use the alloy bracket as supplied. The solution we have come up with is to fabricate a new bracket which will bolt on to the alternator bracket. This is rigidly bolted to the engine so won't flex or vibrate under load. The photos below should illustrate the situation.

Kit photos courtesy of RacerX (www.racerxfabrication.com), others are mine


Cam trigger sensor, mounting plate and distributor plug




1ZZ-FE Coil in Plug




Coil on Plug Mounting Plate. This could be modified so that the orientation of the COP's is aligned. The RacerX kit assumes it has to make allowances for MR2 clearances but on my build we don't have these issues




As installed on Track Toy. The plugs and tails were also supplied in the kit. Plan is to fit a flexible rubber boot which will fit over the top of the standard Denso plugs and make it look more professional




Toyota 90080-19015 1Z-FE Coil on Plugs by Denso - Made in the USA! Good for up to 700bhp output 3S-GTE according to the guys on the MR2OC forum




Track Toy cam timing cover removed. I'm not sure if it will be possible to re-fit the cam timing cover with the sensor installed. I guess a slot could be cut for the bracket/sensor but it would look like a bit of a bodge. I'm sure a neater solution is possible.




RacerX MR2 cam sensor installation




RacerX 12 tooth crank sensor installation. I didn't buy this as I had cloned a crank trigger borrowed from JP. RacerX also sell a 36-1 and a 60-2 wheel for finer adjustment at high rpm. Just thought I'd include for completeness




Track Toy engine bay

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Very interesting Don.

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1996 ST205 UK

Hi,

i think the cam position sensor should follow the engines motions.....

greedz

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Yeah, I agree Sunny. The MR2 location on the engine mount isn't ideal as the sensor may move relative to the trigger disc on the cam wheel. The engine does move on its rubber mounts so I think its best to mount the sensor and its bracket on the engine. The alternator assembly looks like a good place to mount the sensor bracket.

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Agree, how critical it is I don't know seeing as Don is using a crank sensor for ultimate rotation speed.
IMHO I would mod the dizzy cover to take a sensor and fab up a cam timing wheel to fit the slot in the end. It is more difficult but IMHO the correct way to do it. I do see that the bracket 7 sensor is fixed to the rigid end of the engine mount but how rigid is rigid enough?

Maybe I have missed the point of what you are doing but your crank sensor doesn't seem to have a missing tooth to indicate TDC of cyl 1. If you incorporate a missing tooth or single trigger on the cam then it will be fine.

I guess the ideal is to have a "many tooth" crank sensor for positional accuracy and a single cam trigger for cyl 1 TDC for ultimate position info. (you only the COP once every 2 revolutions so you only need a crank sensor to indicate when it is going to be on the "fire" stroke)

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The kit includes an aluminium disc with a slot cut in the perimeter. It doesn't show well in the photo but you can just see the disc bolted to the exhaust cam pulley wheel. Without this cam sensor and just the crank trigger sensor the plugs would fire every revolution i.e. 'wasted spark'. The cam trigger means that the plugs only fire on the power stroke. This should be more efficient and ensure maximum energy to the COP and also avoid the COP's getting too hot by firing on very stroke.

I had a good examine of a spare dizzy and its not obvious how you to dismantle it. What is clear is the inner part of the dizzy wheel has a single tooth which performs the function of TDC sensor. The original RacerX kit replaced the entire dizzy including the allow housing with the cam sensor disc driven by a replacement spindle. There were more parts to manufacture and they ended up with the Mk2 version which you see above which is simpler and cheaper to make. Some instructions would have been useful but once I was able to access the RacerX thread on the MR2 board it all made sense.

The pic below shows the crank trigger wheel and sensor arrangement I am using . Note the missing tooth for TDC!



If anybody is interested in pics of the original RacerX kit I can post them up?

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp