Upon turning on ignition I'm not getting an engine management light.
Sometimes it will start but will die out soon after starting.
After dying out and ignition on there is a lot of relays clicking at the back of the engine around inlet manifold.
Then will crank but will not fire.

Any ideas where to start?

I've checked the fuel pump by crossing terminals with ignition on and I can hear the fuel returning to tank.
I've tried with a new battery but same result.

Could this be another leaky capacitor ECU failure?

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Quite possibly Sirius. Very similar to the sort of problems I had. Check this post out Twincam
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5617

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UK WRC & a CS

Damm!! I was hoping it was something simple like a fuse or relay! !!

I'll whip out the ecu this evening and check it guys and will update in here...thanks...

Classic symptoms of failed capacitors in the ECU. Have a look at the thread mentioned above and have a look inside the ECU to confirm.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Thanks guys, out of interest if it is the ECU are there any good aftermarket options available or would a simple capacitor replacement in its original one be wise?

Without wishing to steal Nibbles' thunder....

From reading his previous posts the they will need capacitor replacement at minimum and possibly repair to the PCB tracks as the electrolyte that leaks out of the blown capacitor eats the copper tracks.

Your best bet is to take the lid off, look for goop on the PBC/capacitors and take a close up pic and post it here.

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JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

The capacitors failing alone won't stop it working, so it will almost inevitably have eaten at least one track as well.

Repair is fairly simple to someone who knows what they're doing, normally about 1/2 hour to remove capacitors, clean up the mess with solvent, replace capacitors, solder links across any eaten tracks and spray with conformal coating.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Lads I opened up the relay and two of the capacitors have leaked. One on the bottom board and one on the top.
They are both the same capacitor.
Nichicon 10microF 50V

I gonna try put up pics now but I'm sure this is the problem

Actually guys it's the exact same as the pictures on the thread suggested so won't bother...

Hmm, nichicon I thought were a decent capacitor, for some reason I thought Toyota used "suntan" brand?

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JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

I'm begining to suspect that high frequency ripple may be a factor. Certainly the one on the bottom board is decoupling for the flyback energy from the idle solenoid. Under these conditions I would normally use a ceramic e.g. 0.1uF in paralell to absorb the high frequency stuff as electrolytics arn't great for this.

It could, of course, still be a 'bad batch' as per my original thinking.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

edited this guys, took a good look through the threads on aftermarket ecu's, cost and performance etc and decided to stay standard and replace capacitors and is up my ecu board.


I'm gonna be running completely standard set up with a decat and aftermarket exhaust.
What kinda gain could I expect?
Any problems associated with running a decat pipe?

Gains from decat and exhaust aren't huge and you may run into boost creep issues, although this is less common on 185s than 205s.

I'm happy to swap capacitors and link tracks for the cost of return postage if you don't have someone local who's used to repairing pcb's.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

`Sorry havent updated in a while folks, I'm waiting on a friend to clean the ECU board for me.
Once i have it back installed i'll update if that as the only problem.

In the mean time I've fitted an XS downpipe