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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 7:14 pm 
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Well, I just wanted to ask this cause I have no other clue of what could be the problem, I just rebuild my 3sgte and have forged pistons and rods in it. I also put in complete new gaskets and valve stem seals, also has a brand new CT26 put in.
So after all of this I assembled and put the engine back in the body and started it up, at first there was no smoke but she was and still is idling very rough.
But after putting in another battery I started her up and let her warm up and then when I gave her some gas suddenly she started blowing a bunch of smoke and all this time she was running very rough. The last turbo had a cracked exhaust housing and was blowing smoke just the same, so the downpipe is still covered with oil from the old turbo, could it be this oil that starts burning up when the exhaust is heated up?
But it keeps blowing smoke and it smells like burned oil, when I rev the engine more smoke (a lot more) comes out.
HELP!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 7:48 pm 
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It's always hard to know where to start with diagnosis


First thing to check is error codes from the ECU in case it's not happy about something

If there are no error codes then it's possible you have an airleak somewhere. This causes rough idling and hunting symptoms. It's possible to test for this using something like brake cleaner. Spray it carefully around all the air/vacuum pipes. If the revs go up then you have an airleak somewhere close to where you are spraying

Also have a good check of all the wiring around the AFM. Also check that the AFM flap moves freely and hasn't stuck

Until you get it running slightly right it's hard to say about oil. An exhaust system full of oil will smoke for a long time running the car in the workshop

If you take out a spark plug is it oily? - might be hard to tell if it's idling badly and sooting the plugs up. If you pull the dipstick out with the engine running what happens?

Some smoke from a fresh rebuild is not necessarily a big issue. It will need time to bed in rings etc etc. However, you need to get it running correctly before you can break it in which is a bit of a chicken and egg problem :(


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:38 pm 
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Did you prime the turbo oil lines by turning the engine over on the starter with the EFI fuse removed to disable the ignition? This is very important. If you don't do this you can end up destroying the turbo bearings before oil pressure builds up. Net result is a blown turbo and lots of smoke :(

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:11 pm 
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I went and see what the ecu has to say and turns out that the intercooler was missing coolant so I went out and bought a gallon and also bought 2 cans of brake cleaner.
I filled her up with the coolant and started her up, she was a bit of a *bleep* to keep idling but after a few tries she finally kept idling, so I used the brake cleaner to search for leakes and turns out she is getting inhaling air from the throttle body gasket, and still smoking, so I found the exhaust downpipe covered with even more oil so the turbo seal most be popped cause I sprayed the brake cleaner in the down pipe and then started her up again and et first there was no smoke but then after idling a while she started blowing a lot of smoke again, so I guess the I blew the brand new turbo seal.
CRAP!!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:27 pm 
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Update:
I just worked the whole weekend on the car, rebuilded the turbo and added some silicone to the throttle body and then put her back together, but now she won't even idle, she would only work if I give gas and she will barely rev, but after playing with the throttle the rev goes up and as soon as I keep the throttle one place she just dies, I checked the ecu for error codes but I had nothing from the ecu just flashes normal. CAN anyone HELP ME!!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 11:58 pm 
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Hmm,

More things to check
Is the AFM flap moving freely. Also check the AFM connector as these are often a problem area

Have you checked the timing - base timing should be 10 degrees

It's worth checking cam timing - remove top cambelt plastic cover. Align the crank pulley mark with the 0 on the lower cambelt cover. You should now see two marks on the cam pulleys which should be aligned with two small ribs on the top/side of the camshaft cover


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 10:15 am 
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Oke, but if the cam timing and or base timing is wrong she wouldn't turn over right away when I crank her, am I right? cause she does start very fast, idle goes up but then she dies right away.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:39 am 
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if it's out by a tooth or two it would try to run normally but the idle would be horrible.

Thinking about it, fuel pressure is another possibility. Just as a quick test you could try bridging the B+ and FP pins in the diagnostic connector to run the fuel pump full time


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:24 pm 
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you were right it was ut by a tooth on the exhaust side but it's still idling like crap....i'm really losing my cool on this one

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:52 pm 
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Would be worth doing a compression test if it's still burning oil in case it's a piston / ring problem. Would also show up a valve problem.

If it now runs smoothly otherwise, no oil, just poor idle then I would suspect air leak still.

Also, when setting ignition timing, did you bridge E1 & TE1 in the diagnostic connector ? Did you reset the ignition timing after correcting the cam timing ?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 11:24 pm 
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Yeah I pretty much did that but it seems like its idling okay except that the number 1 isn't firing at all, I bought new spark plugs but it keeps n doing the same, she is still burning oil she wasn't after I rebuilded the turbo but we did some testings and found out that because the cam was advanced 1 tooth on the exhaust side that the engine was releasing A LOT of pressure while it was idling so when I reved it up the turbo would of been spooling to the max which in turn caused the rubo seals to blow once again, and I found out that the new oil feed and return lines I fitted have a smaller diameter which means the turbo is getting A lot more oil pressure than what the CT26 is designed for so to drop the pressure I installed an oil restrictor which helped a lot but doesn't fix the already blown turbo that is now blowing smoke trough the exhaust, I think the intake manifold or the TVIS is leaking, or they're warped, either ways I got sick of all of it and bought a 3sge gen 2 head which came without the hydraulic tensioner and without the exhaust cam, everything else was there. I didn't really care about the rest, I dropped it by the shop today, I bought new oversize ferrea valves, dual springs retainers, locks, viton stem seals, 272 cams, seats guides and everything I could think of which were meant to go in the gen 1 head which turned out to have smaller valve springs and would need serious machining to get the hks and dual valves in not to mention new buckets and shims, I found out that the 2 gen 3sge has the same valve size as the 1 gen 3sgte except for the valve spring size which is 25 mm for the gen 1 and 28 mm for the gen 2 (diameter), and the cam lobes are much larger on the gen 2, So I can't wait to get it back and drop it in and see what she does

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:30 am 
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is No1 plug sparking?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:41 am 
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Burning oil and 3 cylinders at idle sounds like a bottom end problem to me. Broken / melted piston or rings. Compression test should definitely be next.

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