When I start the car in the morning and drive it, the car accelerates like a snail until it's warmed up (about 600 yards it gets going)....then it's fine.
Not sure if this is a bad spark, fuel blockage, Petrol used, timing.........or if it's meant to be like this as standard......
I'm not getting any engine warning light flashes......it could be that the IC needs draining and refilling as I was getting a 54 error code....so that might be the cause?
If I get in the car after it's been driven just a short time before then it's fine again (like it's warmed up still) .....
I'm going to service the car very soon.
If it's the fuel doing it then I'll have to switch over......mind you if my car is a UK CS then it should be fine on 95....

Steve

I have always found that my UK car runs much better on 97.

Try swapping fuel and the service and see what happens - I think I read elsewhere that you were going to replace the distributor cap and rotor arm, spark plugs which is always a good idea if you don't know when they were last done.

_________________
GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Thanks mate.
Is the fuel filter easy to change?
I know they look simple but with fuel you have to be extra careful indeed, so I was wondering if any special tools are needed? Do they clamp the fuel pipe hoses together then remove the filter, refit new and reconnect hoses and unclamp them? Never done a fuel filter before you see......

Cheers

Steve

hi there,
I would like to continue this post please. i am now going to attempt to do what steveen is asking to diagnose my problems.

1) i have just learned that distributor, dizzy cap and rotor arm, are 3 seperate replaceable things.
is this true??
can i go to andrew page and ask for replacement cap and arm??

2) where is the fuel filter and is a new filter a main stealer parts also??

3) does anyone have a how to and where is for the filter please.

$) is it easy to swap the rotor arm and cap over and are theere any precautions i should be aware of.

as always, thankyou.....
mahender..

_________________
THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters

1. No. Dizzy cap and rotor arm can be changed. The dizzy itself is not a routine maintenance item. It is rare for a dizzy to fail.

2. Fuel filter is on the right hand side of engine bay, by charcoal cannister. I find it a bit of a git to change. Access, (as usual), is awkward imho.

4. Straightforward. Rotor arm is keyed and will only go on one way Cap will only logically fit on one way. Make a note of where the leads come out from the dizzy, but, if you foul up the number of the cylinder/lead is embossed by the posts on the cap.

HTH

_________________
Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement

Thanks.

_________________
THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters

Hi All,
just an update.
first thanks to JP and KRis for their help.

I changed the cap and rotor arm and swapped leads all sorted i think.
it seems a lot more responsive and fuel efficient (which is alwaYS GOOD)
it still chugs a little when warming up nowheere near as bad as before.

maybe i need to get base timing checked as per JP's suggestion.

maybe it just needs warming before booting.

THE OIL LEAK.
OMG wow. i checked the rocker cover as per JP's suggestion.

the screws i could twiddle with just my fingersthey were that loose. and all the signs ( the mass of oil) pointed to this so tightened them (finger tight to allow for expansion and contraction.
no oil light yet.
the ones at the firewall side of the engine were a royal PITA.

My top tip for everyone is get some DECENT tools.

THanks for saving the four again.
mahender

_________________
THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters

No Problem m8,
Get your base timing checked. MUST BRIDGE PINS TE1 & E1 though. It is easy to do - I will do a little write up if you want (not sure if I have done!)

I woudl tighten up teh rocker cover screws with a screwdriver - witha normal screw driver you are unlikley to overtighten them, the pressure of the screws is what squeezes teh rocker cover gasket soi a bit of pressure is needed.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

sorry, i did use a screw driver on a torque wrench thing (from a socket set) woith an adaptor on it. they are a bit more tight than finger tight. i gave them a good pinch withb the driver.

do you think that because i have had a leak there. that the gaskett wont now seal properly?
and i should get a replacement any way? or will it reseal?

thanks....

_________________
THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters

it is a bit of a PITA to change and normally nipping up the screws once a month will stop 95% of the leakage. If you get a job that requires all the throttle body & intercooler to come off then do it at same time - otherwise just tighten regularly m8.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

Hi ya just have to say I’ve been through it all with mine, if you try to pull away when the oil is cold and a bit thick they don’t like it nor thank you for it in the long run, I’ve always found it best to let the car sit and warm up for a few minutes first thing in the morning and wait till the engine is up to temp before booting it. Also a leaky cam cover / rocker cover will also cause a bit of bother too, I had the engine breather pipe split, the one that runs from the top right of the cover to the main air inlet pipe that feeds the turbo, once I replaced it the car ran fine, a leaking cover I would imagine could give you the same symptoms. Oh and yes my rocker cover bolts came loose too, simple spring washers will cure this problem or a spot of threat lock on the screws. Hope you get it sorted, the fine weather is on its way! Dorris

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Black CS 2771

hi all. want to ask a question please.
to replace the oil breather pipe. can i get any replacemetn hose for it. or is there specifics regarding layout, and moulding of the pipe.??
could i just get some braided hose and swap it over??or would it have to be the identical one to what is on it now. (OEM)
thanks...

_________________
THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters

you can use some flexible style hose as long as it is designed to hold up under vacuum & pressure and will not dissintergrate due to teh oil or heat.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

hi all,
i have finally changed my oil breather pipe. so thats plugs leads etc etc
just one question for information please. as dorris posted earlier to change the breather pipe sorted his problem. and .....
it seems has cured mine also.
1) could someone tell me why and how this has made it run smoother???
2)plus why do peeps put a catch can in therre??
3) does the turbo need this feed back from engine to the turbo from the pipe???
and i guess putting a catch can in collects the oil vapour but then why do you need it fed back to where it does.

p.s. the other pipe did have loads of crud in it and i dont reckon it was done since new. so hopefully this i s a breath of fresh air for my 4.
thanks

_________________
THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters

1. The breather pipes connect to the air intake system. The point at which they connect is AFTER the AFM. This means that any leaks allows to unmetered air to enter the engine. Unmeter air means that the incorrect fuel and spark will be applied since the ECU does not know what amount of air is entering the engine.

2. This is to help stop oil coating the turbo and intake system. This reduces the efficiency of the intercooler and can also aid detonation.

3. This isn't a feedback as such, it's just a way to get rid of the gases that build up inside the block and head. Yes to the principle of the catch can. Some guys run the output of the car to atmosphere, but I wouldn't recommend this on a stock-ish car.

Good to hear it's running better now!

_________________
Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement