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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 4:14 pm 
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Hope all the TLC pays off and your Four starts running properly :)

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 5:12 pm 
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Looking good, nice how well the inside of the AFM scrubbed up!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:44 pm 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
AFM now all back together again and ready to go back on. Dorris
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 8:44 am 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Hi everyone its been a long while but its been a pretty busy time including having our T180 written off by a road raged van driver but never the less I have spent a bit of time trying to get to the bottom of the running problem with the CS since the rebuild.
The small loom rebuild to the coolant manifold sensors definitely worked as the car is now able to tick over with no external assistance and for the first time in years I've got some heat in to the engine.
However it wont rev past 2k and I get fuel cut symptoms at 2k, its sooting up due to over fuelling but I have also noticed that both the standard and my pillar boost gauges are not registering anything at all.
During the rebuild I removed the MBC and went back to a stock set up with the TVSV but this is looking like it might be an issue related to the Turbo pressure sensor.
Any thoughts please? Dorris

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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 12:47 pm 
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If the standard OEM AND aftermarket boost gauges are not moving at all when you blip the throttle then that could point to the OEM gauge not getting a signal. The aftermarket boost gauge should be plumbed in directly to the plenum so there's nothing to go wrong there other than the gauge itself (if its a mechanical type gauge) OR the pressure sensor is broken (if its an electrical gauge). On the ST205 if the chocolate OEM boost gauge doesn't move that would point to the MAP sensor being stuffed. On the CS which doesn't use a MAP sensor then I guess the Air Flow Meter (AFM) on the ST185 manages the fueling? IIRC you recently rebuilt the AFM. Perhaps it's not functioning correctly and that's why you're mixture is all wrong and you're getting the black smoke.

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 7:21 pm 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Thought it time to ask the people in the know. I'm still pulling my hair out with my 3SGTE CS running problem and hoping someone in here can give me an idea or direction to go in.

Symptoms; Initially with the accelerator open car would only rev to 2000 rpm then die, when the revs dropped it would pick up and die again at 2000rpm and this would keep happening as long as you the accelerator open, under 2000rpm the car would run ok.
Then I found the alternator wasn't charging so in the mean time charged the battery to full charge and for some reason the car would occasionally rev to the red line all be it a bit fluffy at the top revs (timing still not set) and for a few minutes I could drive the car normally. I thought that a low battery voltage might of been the cause.
I got the alternator refurbished and the battery is charging fine however when I tried it the symptoms had dropped to 1000rpm with no more occasional revving.
I went back to the car the next day and it had come down to only 500rpm.
When back to the car this week and now it wont rev off tick over so what ever it is, its got worse or getting worse.
The car has been rebuilt back to a standard set up but with forged internals, I've tried a few things to try and eliminate or pin point the problem but to no avail.

There are NO codes!

Anyone got any ideas feel free to ask me any question. Dorris

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 10:25 am 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 5:16 pm 
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Dorris,
I would first check the vacuum hose to the aftermarket boost gauge. If this is plumbed in correct and coming off the inlet plenum and showing no vacuum at idle then you probably have a massive vacuum leak. This will cause all kind of issues as the airflow meter will not register airflow and the fuel pressure regulator will provide too much fuel as it is not seeing the vacuum.

Iirc a good way to test for vacuum leaks is to spray a little wd40 around the engine bay - when the idle speed increases you have found the vicinity of the leak ;-)

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:24 pm 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Your not the first to say vacuum leak actually and we've had a look and listen but cant find or hear anything but I think I will plumb my gauge straight into the plenum to eliminate that and maybe have a look at my TVSV as that is the only thing different to the last time it ran, then I ran a MBC.
The symptoms are like fuel cut in the way it dies and then picks up when the revs drop again. Dorris

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:39 pm 
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If you need any sensors to try out I do have a some on the rc and also I have 2 airflow meters.

A simple way to check, pull the turbo pressure gauge connection off whilst it is idling, if there is no change theN you Already had a whacking great vacuum leak. If it suddenly stalls (I think this is what he st185 will do as opposed to increase revs a lot) then it is probably not a large vacuum leak or it is something else entirely.

The vacuum ports on the throttle body are sealed iirc at idle but are opened once throttle is applied, this would be my starting point imho from your description.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:41 pm 
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Where is your boost gauge (aftermarket) plumbed into??

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 11:52 am 
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Location: Bournemouth
Car Model: ST205
Diceman wrote:
Dorris,
I would first check the vacuum hose to the aftermarket boost gauge. If this is plumbed in correct and coming off the inlet plenum and showing no vacuum at idle then you probably have a massive vacuum leak. This will cause all kind of issues as the airflow meter will not register airflow and the fuel pressure regulator will provide too much fuel as it is not seeing the vacuum.

Iirc a good way to test for vacuum leaks is to spray a little wd40 around the engine bay - when the idle speed increases you have found the vicinity of the leak ;-)


Where you mention vacuum hose to the after market boost gauge, do you not mean the vacuum hose to boost pressure sensor (the one near the brake master cylinder)?
If not maybe check that connection anyway as I remember that cause me a load of $hit in past. Its not that easy to spot as the pipe plugs into the bottom of the sensor.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 11:48 pm 
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No, I figured that the aftermarket boost gauge would be mechanical hence is unlikely to be broken or missreading, if it is showing atmospheric pressure at idle it is either attached to the wrong port (on the throttle body) or he has a massive vacuum leak somewhere.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 1:03 am 
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A few thoughts.

Is it overfuelling, or could it be sunburnt mixture as a result of ignition failure.

Fuelling is set by the afm. Air leaks in will weaken the mixture. Air leaks out (post turbo on boost) will richen it.
Slight leak (after throttle ) will increase idle rpm, bigger leak will stall as too weak..
If both gauges are reading zero, it's unlikely both are faulty unless both are taken from the same pipe or run from the same power (if electric gauge).

Worth looking at fuel pump feed as the fuel pump relay switches between resistor and direct with throttle and revs. Could be relay or wiring. Link fp to b+ to bypass.

Also classic symptoms of coil or ignited failure. Higher rpm and cylinder pressure puts more strain on these and can cause flashover or overheating.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 1:12 am 
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Damn autocorrect.
Also worth mentioning, generally vac leaks have more effect at light throttle openings than full throttle. Symptoms seem wrong to be vac leak.

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