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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:15 am 
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Group N
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 8:22 pm
Posts: 417
Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
I’ve had a closer look at the leak and the oil level switch set up isn’t quite what you think, let me explain.
The square flange that the switch screws into that you think is part of the sup pan is in fact only spot-welded. The hole in the wall of the sump pan that the switch goes through is actually smaller then the flange and relies on the O-ring on the rear of the switch to butt up against the sump pan. So if the O-ring fails it will leak between the flange and sump pan.

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Dorris

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:52 am 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Oil leak from the oil level switch is looking like it’s now cured but won’t really know until everything gets hot again.
It was just a matter of dropping the oil, pulling off the switch and cleaning everything up but the O-ring has seen better days though. I used a good sealant and got it right in around the inside of the switch mount, coated the O-ring either side then bolted it all back together again and let it set. Now everything looks nice and dry so fingers crossed it will be OK when I eventually start it up but that’s a little way off just yet, Dorris

The culprit.
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View of the Cat in place
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:08 am 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Hi all been quiet for a while I know but doesn’t mean I haven’t been busy but Ill do an up date later.
Bit of a question regarding the charcoal canister or more the BVSV, mine is broke so do I replace it or do I just bin the canister and replace it with a breather catch tank?
So any pros and cons with removing the canister? Dorris

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:25 am 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Is the charcoal canister not just an emissions related device? I'm not aware of it being mission critical :lol:

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
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1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:31 am 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 8:22 pm
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Well it’s been a couple months since I last did an update so here goes.
Its all been fairly good so far with only a couple of little issues but nothing major to contend with.
I spent a fair bit of time sorting the engine loom; it was one of those jobs that you spend ages doing and have nothing to show for it.
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There where a few sensors with broken wires and a couple of sensors completely missing but these where for the EGR which I disabled from way back and the TVIS which I removed and flowed at the same time. The only one I am connecting back up is the TVSV to give me standard boost whilst I run the engine in which is now all bolted back on to the underside of the inlet manifold, not the easiest place to get to I must add.
My aim was to get electrical power back in the engine as soon as possible so I could spin it over to get oil pumped around the engine so I decided to build up everything related to the auxiliary belt first again everything involved got cleaned pained and oiled etc.
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Something I did miss which turned out to be a pain of a job was the power steering output pipe, difficult to get at due to the fact the pump was already fitted and no room to access the banjo bolt on top of the pump, so it was a matter of un-bolting the pump threading the pipe down the back of the inlet manifold, bolting up the banjo bolt and refitting the pump again. All made difficult by the serious lack of room but with the reservoir now also fitted the power steering system is finally finished and just in need of some fluid.
Starter motor got cleaned and checked and went on along with the regulators and rectifiers.
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The clutch slave cylinder got fitted and all bled up with a nice light smooth feel to the clutch pedal which for me was a landmark as this was the first mechanical action the car has seen in 4 years.
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The battery was connected up temporarily to see if I had power but sadly nothing! My train of though was that I might need something else connected to get a circuit so time to leave it put the battery back on charge and have a cuppa.
Next day when putting the battery in place I spotted a block connector half out the bottom of the fuse box and what do you know “click!” and we have a dash board full of lights and power to the starter motor, so with the plugs out the engine got a damned good spin over, however, a slight issue with the oil pressure switch, its missing “doh!”
After a few minuets cleaning up the spilt oil off the top of the gear box it occurred to me that the oil pressure switch was left in the old cylinder head that I sold last month so a suitable bolt was found until I procured a new oil pressure switch and it was take two with spinning the engine over, this time with total success and no additional oil leaks, since that little incident I have now fitted a new shiny oil pressure switch.
From here on is just a matter of getting everything else cleaned up and fitted, the throttle body was partially stripped and soaked over night in a de-scaling solution along with the coolant manifold then these got power washed and left to dry.

Things then became a bit slow with the build as I routed through all the boxes and found all my brackets and fixings to be cleaned up and painted and left to go hard.
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As it happens the week I decided to paint we had our summer and nice weather so between painting and drying I tackled all drilling and tapping of the broken bolts and screws around the engine bay most of which where down around the expansion tank and gear box oil cooler.
Once everything was dry I built up the throttle body and fitted that back on along with all the hoses.
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Another issues I have is with the BVSV for the charcoal canister with both tubes snapped off the switch so until I decide what to do or get a new switch I’ve by passed the switch and plumbed it straight to the manifold, what effect this will have I have no idea.
Whilst still on that side of the engine the coolant manifold is all in place along with all the sensors and switches just waiting for the hoses and loom to be connected to it.
So far I have managed to replace all but the main coolant hoses with silicon hoses and stainless jubilee clips and all the vacuum hoses have been replaced also with silicon hoses. No fancy colours just black as I want to keep the engine looking as standard as I can which leads me on to the next problem, EGR!
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Although my plan is to keep the EGR disabled and the fact that the new cylinder head has no drillings to accept the EGR I want to bolt it all in place for aesthetics.
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Unfortunately my original EGR has seen better days and at sometime has had a poor repair done to it but whilst trying to clean up the repair the steel tube has come away from the foot so until I can either find a replacement or repair this one I will have to blank off the inlet manifold again.
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Once I have everything related to the coolant and vacuum system in place then it will be a matter of fitting all the ignition system and sorting the gearbox oil cooler, which is looking very sorry for its self then moving on to the exhaust system.
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Stay tuned for more, Dorris

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:40 am 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Just a couple of pics of the charge cooler pump before and after.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:45 am 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Hi all, a few more bits and pieces have been done but not really had the perfect weather, which has not helped.

I reconnected the two air conditioning pipes to the pump with two new O-rings but what condition the AC is in I’ll worry about at a later date and get the pros to look at it but it has never worked since I’ve had the car.
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I managed to fix and tidy up all the EGR system but as I said before this is only for aesthetics so this made the repair easier by just using a smaller pipe inside the feed pipe and some silicon glue to hold it all in place, then it was just a matter of polish, paint and fitting, with the system being inactive I blanked the vacuum system at the EGR VSV and also at the inlet manifold to stop any air leaks.
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With the EGR all on the charge cooler support bracket went on along with a new 13mm silicon vacuum hose and the last heater matrix hose was fitted from the water manifold to the bulkhead.
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Once the bracket was on it was just a matter of fitting a new ignition system with new spark plugs, rotor arm, cap and leads.
I’ve just gone with standard grade copper spark plugs for the moment but will more then likely move to a colder plug when the boost increases.
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With new plugs and leads on it was just a matter of popping on the cam belt cooler over number one spark plug.
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One issue that has just reared its head is the different dipstick, this has only come to light when I offered up the alternator cooling duct which you can see by the super imposed picture below.
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I know some people don’t bother running the air duct but for the sake of reliability and for the look, I want to run the duct but I think there is enough room to straighten up the dip stick tube and move it to the right and hopefully give me enough room to fit the air duct but then my concern is the plastic handle and heat produced from the turbo, if not I’ll look at maybe shortening the tube and running something like the original.

The main radiator and the last of the coolant hoses have been ordered and are coming from Melbourne Australia of all places, again in black silicon so whilst waiting for them its time to start cleaning and painting again and getting the remaining components all ready to be fitted, so until then stay tuned. Dorris

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:51 pm 
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Location: NLD
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Looking good Dorris! Very tidy. Are you going for 100% OEM looks? Because I would ditch that EGR system and have more space in the bay. Less is more and cleaner?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 12:48 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:06 am
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Great write-up and pics Dorris, thanks for sharing :D

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 7:28 pm 
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Posts: 417
Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Another up date and more snags and problems,

Since owning the car I had always suspected it was running the wrong radiator but it hadn’t caused any problems so was happy to keep using it. The homemade bracket that I found holding the fan shroud to the bottom of the radiator confirmed it was probably a GTi radiator and not a GT4 radiator.

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But the decision to change the radiator for an original was made after I fitted it and discovered a suspected leak at the bottom, which I confirmed with a pressure test.

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An original GT4 radiator was sourced at a very good price and a big thanks to Scottyboi for picking it up for me on the way up to ours, it soon became very obvious the differences between the two radiators.

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First thing was to check the new rad which got a thumbs up and then it was time to give it a clean and a coat of paint and fit the original fan to it.
For those who don’t know but the limited edition 185s run a different fan and a higher wattage motor so I was keen to put the original back on.
Whilst waiting for the rad to turn up there were still plenty of other things to be getting on with, one of them was to tidy up the main heat shield.

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The other was the charge cooler which was a project in its self, having to strip, remove the original scabby paint, clean it inside and out then paint it silver, mask up paint the black then strip and re-polish the lettering on top.

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The other little issue I had was the mounting bolts as the original that held it on where a mix of different bolts found laying around on the garage floor I think so it was time to get creative with some Allen bolts.

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The other ongoing project is the front end of the car; this has taken a bit of a beating over the last twenty years and is in need of some TLC, this was just a matter of removing the corrosion and getting some paint on it, also the front cross member got cleaned up along with my horns and refitted.

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Another little issue I had was the small loom that connects to all the sensors on the coolant manifold and the broken wires at the block connector to the EFI temperature sensor but this was an easy fix by removing the connector and replacing it with a couple of small spade connectors and then sealing them with some clear silicon sealant.

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The new radiator got fitted and being an original twin core and wider then what was in there I had to temporarily remove the rectifiers to get the rad in, then it was just a matter of bolting back up all the rectifiers and relays etc.
With the last of the loom fixed and fitted, I was then able to fit the induction system to the turbo and air box but not after a good clean and polish.
The MAF got a good clean but I haven’t done anything with spring tension yet this will be something I will address at a later date when everything is up and running.

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With the induction system in place I was then able to fit the charge cooler and fixings and pipes but not after a slight issue with the crank case breather interfering with one of the elbows of the charge cooler. This was solved by slightly bending the crank case breather towards the head allowing the charge cooler to sit on to its mounts then it was just a matter of connecting the pipes and fixings and filling with water, this will be emptied and refilled with coolant once I’ve confirmed there is no leaks once fired up, this also goes for the main radiator too.

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With the induction system all in place I’m able to sort the battery tray and fuse box, the battery clamp got painted up months ago but the fuse box has seen better day with the base hanging off the bottom and the information all rubbed away off the top. I attached the bottom back on using a couple of small tie wraps and I have a plan for the top, which will all become clear later on but in the mean time if anyone has a good picture of a top of a good condition fuse box they could send me id be much appreciative.

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The next on the list will be to finish off the front of the car and get the front bumper back on and clean up the remainder of the brackets in the engine bay along with the front strut.

This what the engine bay looks so far but not quite finished.

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Stay tuned for more, Dorris

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 8:17 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
I love reading these updates on your progress Dorris. Always a treat!

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:34 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
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Looks like its really coming together now Dorris. Ace work. :)

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:24 am 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Well lots has happened since the last write up but unfortunately its been rushed back together ready for a house move, again. So once moved and all settled in the project will be resurrected and finished properly but on a good note the engine is 99% finished and fired on the first turn which was very reassuring, unfortunately there are few teething problems and the engine wont run without input from the throttle and is massively over fuelling with lots of fumes and soot out the exhaust but it runs and I can sort the problems once we’ve moved.
Its also back on its wheels again with brakes so it is able to be moved.
Whilst I was underneath fitting the standard exhaust which I must add is a lot easier to fit then the 3” that I had on it I also wax oiled the underside to give me a fighting chance with the rust especially towards the rear.
With all the covers now off the car the four years of being stored under cover was obvious so it was time to get busy with the Tcut and polish but the rust has taken hold of the tail gate around the window seal and rear sills, but to be fair the sills have not deteriorated any more since its been stood but the car is still a long way off being finished but at least the big complicated bit under the bonnet has almost been done.
So until the move happens everything is on hold again so I thought id give you a load of pics to remind people and my self what it looks like, thanks for tuning in and hoping it wont be too long before I can carry on with the project. Dorris

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Last edited by Dorris on Sun Aug 19, 2012 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 6:37 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Good luck with the house move. Must be a pain having to throw the car together for the move :(

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:38 pm 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
It was a bit but at least I got the engine near as dam it sorted and in, this will be the car's 3rd move and the 2nd whilst still off the road but this should be our last move for a long while.
Don’t want to say too much on where we are moving as its still not set in stone but lets say you should be seeing a bit more of us :wink: Dorris

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