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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 12:05 pm 
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Group N

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Location: Castleford, West Yorks
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After a bit of advice, I have never removed the trim around the door windows and rear quarter windows before, can some one describe how it is done please
Its the black stuff in the photo
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:28 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Dave, if it's the rain gutter trim around the top of the door and the rear quarter window then I haven't removed it myself. Jon refitted the gutter trim which runs from the base of the A pillar to the top of the B pillar. The problem arose with the rear quarter window as we found the rubber surround is moulded to the glass and is not available as a separate part.

Why do you want to remove it, has it deteriorated and in need of replacement?

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2012 Van Diemen JL12 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 1:10 am 
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Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Car Model: ST185
If you can wait, I can write it up when at home. The more I think about it, the more involved it is. Trim tools, socket set, various other tools required.

Door trim simple simple instructions = remove rubber seal, remove aluminium trim pieces by removing phillips screws.

Rear quarter trim simple instructions = remove boot side panel which goes over suspension tower, remove plastic panels above and below quarter window, remove 10mm nuts which hold glass in, remove glass.

And why do you want to remove the glass? The trim is the frame for the glass and is bolted in, and uses window sealer / black butyl mastic to seal the frame against the body. Sticky and gooey and a pain in the *bleep* to use and clean up after..

For your paint work (as per discussion on OC) if you dont' want to remove quarter glass, cover the trim with 3 layers of masking and cover up the glass as well. Do not use an orbital or DA sander within 20-40mm of the trim for fear of scratching the trim. Hand block sand closer to the trim. (do not re-use mastic unless you really have to)

If there is rust and bubbling you want to fix, then the glass will have to be removed. There are photos of me replacing the quarter glass in the Pearl Project.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:28 am 
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Group N

Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:53 pm
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Location: Castleford, West Yorks
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Thanks chaps
I am taking the paint back to metal as there are layers and layers of the stuff
The photo at the top shows the roof back to metal and then given a coat of basic primer as an interim
so far I have done both wings the roof and the tailgate
I have removed the seal around the windscreen and the tailgate glass in order to get down in to the recesses and have found rust on the roof leading edge that will need cutting out and a piece welding in so as the front screen will have to come out I might as well have all the glass out and do the job properly.
I will be grinding / sanding back to metal all the door shuts, recesses etc.....
So left to do is....
Bonnet
bumpers front and rear
A & C pillars
rear quarters (need cutting out and replacing at back of rear wheels)
doors
door shuts / tail gate shut
sills (need welding under rear quarters)

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 12:37 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Dave, I've just had a look at your project thread on the OC and it looks like the shell has a lot more rust on it than normal :cry: For those with OC access the link to the project threas is: http://www.gt4oc.net/forums/viewtopic.p ... =White+WRC. Pics have been posted on Photobucket here
If the previous respray had taken it back to bare metal and not properly treated then I would say that was a mistake. This could well be responsible for the state of corrosion visible in your photos. Nobody has mentioned that Toyota use an electrophorescent body shell anti-corrosion treatment on the ST205. With my track build I was expecting to have to take the shell back to bare metal by dipping it but the chap doing the respray strongly advised me not to do this. The only part of the shell we took back to bare metal was the underside as not unexpectedly this had been blasted with road grit for twelve years so parts had started to rust.

You are quite far advanced but I would say that unless there are visible signs of rust or corrosion such as paint bubbling then just do the minimal amount of surface prep required to key the base coat. This could save you a lot of time and effort on the hard to get at areas.

On the subject of the rear quarter windows I would either go with DeeCee's suggestion of masking them off OR if you are determined to go ahead just take your time to carefully cut the rubber surround from the black mastic goo so you are left with the glass and bonded rubber surround intact. I bought the Toyota installation kit for the windows which consists of some plastic widgets which hold the glass/rubber sourround in the correct position in the window aperture. They sell a similar kit for the windscreen.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress :D

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2012 Van Diemen JL12 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 2:21 pm 
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Location: Castleford, West Yorks
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Cheers Don
The condition of the paint has to be seen to be believed, I think Colin was unhappy with the first respray and gave it back to the paint shop to be sorted out. By looks of it the sorting out looks to have been a blow over the 1st poorly done repaint so there are multi layers of poor paint and it is nay on impossible to establish what would be a good base to go back to. A large proportion (roof, tailgate, wings) was covered in blisters which once they had been removed revealed different paint types including one that came off a bit like emulsion. Also the passenger door looks as though it may have been black originally.
When you add in the rear quarters needing to be chopped out and the rust around the top edge of the windscreen, I decided to go back to metal.
It might not be the right move but im sort of committed to it now :)
Its quite rewarding going through all the layers and cleaning it all up.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:07 pm 
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Sounds horrendous! I know Nial had a bit of an issue with one type of paint he used on the underside of his project but to his credit after wavering briefly he stuck with it after prodding and support from everyone and seems to be back on track. Good to see. I guess if you've got the enthusiasm and determination to keep going at it then it will be worth it in the end. Just make sure you use a decent paint shop ;-) I'd be happy to recommend the guy that did mine.

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2012 Van Diemen JL12 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 2:35 pm 
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Thanks don, if you could send me details of the chap that has done your painting that would be great.
I haven't chosen a painter yet so open to suggestions / recommendations.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 6:27 pm 
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PM sent

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2012 Van Diemen JL12 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 10:55 am 
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Location: Castleford, West Yorks
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Past the point of no return with the paint stripper on the bonnet
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 10:56 am 
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a few pictures of the paint work being tackled for those that dont frequent the OC
Image
Image
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 12:20 pm 
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Bonnet looks dramatic! I've found that the leading edge of the bonnet tends to suffer from aluminium corrosion where it bubbles up under the paint. Not sure why this is. Perhaps due to salt ingress into the folded edge?

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2012 Van Diemen JL12 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 12:32 pm 
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Location: Castleford, West Yorks
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Ive seen that as well Don, this one didnt have it but the multiple layers had to come off
Its surprising how much sharper the lines and curves are without all the paint lol

I will strip back the first inch or so on the underside

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 10:35 am 
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Bonnet stripped and then sanded with 120 grit on a pad in the drill to get the residue off
Image
Used the mini grinder and dremel attachments to get in to the recesses
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 10:36 am 
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Then went over it by hand with 280 grit and then with the da sander
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