I am now the owner of a 185 along with my 205.

The exhaust manifold gasket is blowing.

I have a replacement from TCB, but wondering if anyone has any tips or shortcuts to make it easier?

Looks pretty stock, with original rusty CAT.

Any help appreciated

Thanks

Phil

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

Lots of wd40 on the nuts the night before

What colour, spec is it ATA, RC, CS? Any mods? Pics would be nice too

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Yeah come on phill we need a tread about ur 185

It won't just be the gasket. The manifold will need a skim. Most of the ones I've encountered are about 1mm out over the length.

A number of methods for removal.

1. Take the manifold, turbo and CAT off in 1 piece. Saves undoing the 4 turbo - manifold nuts in situ., but undoing the oil feed banjo behind the turbo (and more to the point refitting, keeping copper washers either side of the banjo) is a pain.

OR

1. Undo the 4 manifold to turbo nuts (keep these separate, they are special and cost about £5 each). May require removal of turbo water pipes to access rear right with a spanner if you can't get from underneath with a socket & extension.

2. Undo the nuts holding manifold to head, hoping that the studs come out with them.

3. Remove the remaining studs. (Good luck ) hopefully they will have the bit on the end to allow a tool to unwind them.

4. If 3 is successful, remove the manifold upwards without disturbing turbo or cat.
OR
4. Remove the bolts holding the turbo bracket and 2 cat brackets to the block. Remove the bolt holding the oil feed return pipe to the block.

5. The flex you now have in the turbo should allow you to lever the manifold away from the head until it comes off the studs and then lift upwards. Don't pull further than needed as you are flexing the turbo oil feed pipe.

If any head threads are knackered, you need a helicoil kit for M10x1.25.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

What he said! Dorris

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Black CS 2771

At first: Do yourself a favor and take out the radiator first. Makes the rest of the job much easier because of the bonus space.

I usually take the turbo out as one piece with the manifold, the downpipe ans the oil pipe. First time I had to take the turbo out it was a hell of a job, but now I´m smarter and it is easier as I replaced the stock ellbow/cat with a downpipe.

Oh, and bet for healthy manifold studs. Mine came out of the head including the threads. Had to repair three of them with helicoils.

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Thanks for the advice, I will try and hold the job off until I get one of the other cars back into service, unless that is not advisable?

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

Have you diagnosed the blow for sure?

It is pretty common for 185 manifolds to crack. Not that the remedy is any different
Also always worth checking that all the bolts holding turbo to manifold are secure
Also check the manifold to head bolts if it's blowing there. You might get lucky or you might be able to nip it up enough for now

If it comes to changing it I would be tempted to try and remove the 4 studs that hold turbo to manifold with a stud extractor.. This might let you remove the manifold with the turbo in situ if you can get a few of the head studs out - I am assuming that those 4 studs are removable but I don't know this is the case for sure

Aha,
The EPC tells me the turbo is attached to the manifold with 4 off 9019-10158 studs

This is what it looks like, with the sooting on the right site of the manifold.

Possibly warped and lifting on the right?

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

It looked the same way on my engine:



Manifold was OK, but the studs wasn´t fixed in the head because of the dead threads. The lower left one was gone complete as You may see in the picture.



This way the thread looks after the repair with Helicoil:

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I'm guessing the usual reason for thread failure in the head is people over-tightening to try to nip up a blow caused by a warped manifold. The manifold is less flexible than the aluminum threads.

My thoughts on the manifold to turbo studs is that steel studs into steel manifold + heat = rusted solid. Steel studs into alli are likely to come out a bit easier. If the turbo ones do come out, it may save some helicoiling.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

I don´t believe in a warp manifold. I bought my car with the engine build by TRD and only 40 k km on it. I´m nearby sure nobody has tryed to fasten the nuts as try to repair. But what I´ve noticed was that the new original gasket for the manifold had a total different design compared to the one I´ve took out. Maybe the original design of the gasket was weak and caused the blowby.

Didn´t skimmed the manifold and it is still leakproof after four years and 30 k km.

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If your engine was nearly new then probably the manifold was ok.

All the ones I've put a ruler on have about 1mm gap at one end with other end and centre touching. I've skimmed 2 now for other people plus 1 of my own is in need of it. That's out of 3 I've looked at.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.