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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 4:26 pm
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Location: stockport, manjester
Car Model: None
Morning all,
The beast failed its mot. I'm at peace though as you guys said everything is do able.

I somehow have a doubt about the whole mot experience fromthe garage I have used last couple ofyyears.

At least there wasn't any engine problems.

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A couple of the advisories have always been present on my car and they haven't said anything before.
My friend said they probably after work. I think it's cause the guy was arsey when I asked if they could do a sniff test .

I'm going to get the work done as it needs it. But use a different mot place. I guess having rapport doesn't mean anything anymore in some business.

I didn't understand the wording but have had it explained to me and told its not terminal. Do you guys agree ?
Thanks .

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red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 12:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:44 pm
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Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
It,s got some rust in the sills that needs a bit of welding by the sound of it. Probably true of many 185s these days.

TBH that's not one an inspector is going to let slide on a nod and a wink as if you get pulled on the way home it didn't just happen - he'll be facing a long talk with the VOSA inspectorate and consequences

I have found that my friendly tester will let a few things go as an advisory but when there is a another genuine failure he tends to make them failure items - headlight aim is a classic example of this. Thing is it's a dead simple fix and I've always found the retest procedure is a trivial shine the lights at the wall job

There is a reason for this. VOSA measure stats on test performance and garages that only ever report passes may be subjected to inspections. By throwing a few trivial failures onto something that is a real fail anyway they can adjust the stats in their favour which might help you out on the next test ;)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
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MOT stations normally adjust the headlight aim in my experience. As Steve says, it probably helps their stats not to on a car that's failed anyway. You will probably find they'll adjust if necessary on a re-test.

The sill failures are just metal moth starting to bite. If you have a sunroof, these drain into the sills on Gen 5's - built in obsolesance. It is possible to re-route or extend the drain pipes to drain under the car instead.

The inner sill is a pain to get to on most cars, better if you have a ramp. It's mormally only a small gap to suspension arms / mounts. Normally, outer sill corroded in same area so i tend to cut away outer and work from the other side.
A cheap fix is to weld a patch over each hole - your lowest quote will probably do just this. It will buy a year or 2 until the rust spreads further & breaks through again further along.
ideally, it needs all the rust cut out and new metal butt welding in (replacement metal cut to exact fit in hole). There is an internal structure within the sills which will also be rotted. This should also be repaired by cutting out rust & welding new, although it's not necessary for this part to look so good.
e.g. - corrosion caused by badly fitted side skirts with non-sealed fixing holes allowing rainwater ingress.

MOT fail
Image
Under the skirt:
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Removing the rusty areas:
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Too much rust to remove all, so cutting away heavily corroded areas leaving fairly solid but surface corrosion - surface corrosion to be treated to slow rate of demise.
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New metal welded in, welds ground flat, original skirt holes welded up.
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Finished job
Image

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 4:26 pm
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Location: stockport, manjester
Car Model: None
Afternoon guys and girls.

I have been quoted £120 for the welding work, does this sound reasonable? I think he is going to weld over the top. I did ask if he was going to cut and replace, don't think so.

Nearside rear
http://static.photobucket.com/player.sw ... derear.mp4

Near side front
http://static.photobucket.com/player.sw ... efront.mp4

Offside front
http://static.photobucket.com/player.sw ... efront.mp4

Apologies for my Darth vaderness.

Nearside rear
Image
Image
Image
Image
Nearside front
Image
Image

Image

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THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:06 am
Posts: 4743
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
mahender wrote:
I think he is going to weld over the top. I did ask if he was going to cut and replace, don't think so.

So this would equate to:
Nibbles wrote:
A cheap fix is to weld a patch over each hole - your lowest quote will probably do just this. It will buy a year or 2 until the rust spreads further & breaks through again further along.

A more permanent repair would mean cutting out all the panels which are badly affected by corrosion.
You will get what you pay for!

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 5:31 pm 
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TrackToyFour wrote:
mahender wrote:
I think he is going to weld over the top. I did ask if he was going to cut and replace, don't think so.

So this would equate to:
Nibbles wrote:
A cheap fix is to weld a patch over each hole - your lowest quote will probably do just this. It will buy a year or 2 until the rust spreads further & breaks through again further along.

A more permanent repair would mean cutting out all the panels which are badly affected by corrosion.
You will get what you pay for!


This is what I was thinking.
If I had the tools I'd do it myself.

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THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 10:53 pm 
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Location: lancashire
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Looking at those pics I would say £120 is stupidly cheap and it aint going to be done correctly, theres a lot of work there to do it properly, I never quote for welding work as it can develop and you don`t know how bad it is until you start cutting the old stuff out so if I take on welding work its simply an hrly rate

Martin

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 11:39 pm 
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Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
Weld a patch over the top = sell or scrap before next mot in my book

Otherwise the rust will just come back bigger and better
Then again sometimes needs must

TBH I think you are going to need an enthusiast to fix that properly for a reasonable cost. ASA Chris's photos show holed sills and chassis legs might well cover worse behind them

For the quoted figure you'll probably get some newspaper, a couple of tins of pon and a spray of shutz


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 8:50 am 
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Location: Bournemouth
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120 is probably about right to just slap patches over the top.

cheap mig welder capable of doing car body thickness metal somewhere approaching £200 angle grinder about 20. Look on utube for tutorials. Ask a local sheet metal place if you can raid their scrap bin for sheet.

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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 12:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 4:26 pm
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Location: stockport, manjester
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two_OH_five wrote:
Weld a patch over the top = sell or scrap before next mot in my book

Otherwise the rust will just come back bigger and better
Then again sometimes needs must

TBH I think you are going to need an enthusiast to fix that properly for a reasonable cost. ASA Chris's photos show holed sills and chassis legs might well cover worse behind them

For the quoted figure you'll probably get some newspaper, a couple of tins of pon and a spray of shutz


NNeeds musted. It's done and shulzd. I needed the car back as its my DD.

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Image
Image

I guess I'm in for some ball aches next year then. Reckon the beast might have gone before that. :'(
Thanks again guys.

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THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters


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