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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 5:58 pm 
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Location: Wiltshire
Car Model: ST205
two_OH_five wrote:
It sounds much worse in the flesh :(

Such a cacophony would offend all but the most hardened coiffeur


Now, you will know that you cannot do hairdressing with an angle grinder :-)

Looks like a lot of fun to be had in that after a lot of work first :-)

Sent from my TapaTapaTapa, Oh no, not another rattle on the car :-(

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 10:14 pm 
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Engine out & diagnosis confirmed. Thanks Steve for your hard work right to the end, and Clint while you were there. Speeded things up somewhat with me not having to constantly get out from underneath for things.

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No. 2 big end well & truly gone. I was surprised not to find any bits of bearing in the sump, especially when the cap came off with no shell visible. Turns out they were both hiding on the conrod side one on top of the other.

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Reason for failure ?

The guy said it didn't run short of oil and I believe him. The oil was like treacle and certainly didn't give the impression of having run dry & filled with with new. The adjoining bearing in No.3 (shown in the picture) doesn't show signs of oil starvation but does show signs of contaminated oil - could be a result of the filings from the failed bearing or could just be old oil.

One possible clue, there was what felt like about 1/4 to 1/2 mm of endfloat on the crank. It could just be this was enough to cause the tightest bearing to pick up and spin during a clutch press. I suspect an owner in it's past has probably had a habit of riding the clutch and caused the wear in the thrust washers.

Further strip down may reveal something else e.g. cracked crank but that's for another day.

On the face of it, new crank & conrods - which I have. Let's hope the mains are all ok.

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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 12:05 pm 
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Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
The double decker big end bearing was a nice touch and not one I've seen before :shock:

I think you should return the "oil" to the last owner, along with a sack of feathers

My bath now looks like the final resting place of the Amoco Cadiz :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 1:27 pm 
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Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
Don't know if this would be any use to you

Major replumbing required but might be easier than the 205 conversion for a quick fix

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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 7:18 pm 
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I had to work most of Saturday and half of Sunday so coupled with a bad back and a serious case of corrosion nearly as strong as weld on starter and also on the bellhousing progress is slow.
The starter is smashed to pieces as the only way it was coming off was with the aid of a BIG hammer. Fortunately the bellhousing came off a little easier and is still in one piece.

Anyway, the engine is now stripped and inspected. Block & pistons are OK, approximately 0.05mm wear on the bores as far as I can tell from my cheap bore gauge so still a few miles left hopefully.

One thing that puzzles me is that although the block half of the main bearing shells has the usual groove in the middle to allow oil transfer through to the big ends, the other half is flat (apart from score marks from debris). I didn't bother plastigauging as the shells are being scrapped but they don't look like it's wear that's removed them. I can't say I've noticed this on these engines before and I would expect to have done.

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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:23 pm 
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They look exactly like the mains that came out of mine Chris

I guess if you had the ring all the way round the main bearing itself wouldn't get oiled

https://plus.google.com/101642211969107 ... eLiMane9v9


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:44 pm 
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It would get oiled from the middle outwards.

Just had another look at the crank and the drillings are linked across the main bearing so there will always be a drilling in the area of the groove to feed the 2 adjacent big ends. Seems a strange way of doing it as you're effectively constantly reversing the flow inside the crank.

From what you say, it does appear to be normal though so not a clue as to reason for failure.

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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 10:23 pm 
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Toyota survival design I suppose
Without it your spun big end might have scrapped the block by starving the main bearing
At least with that design the main is still pressurized 50% of the time


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 10:42 pm 
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It isn't There are drillings on opposite sides of the main bearing journal linked together, with both big ends fed from here. So there is always a direct path to both big ends from the block half of the bearing. I had originally assumed the drillings were separate hence each big end would be starved for 1/2 turn.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 12:00 pm 
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This thread has always been here, you just missed it OK
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 1:56 pm 
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Thanks Steve.

To fill in the gap and bring this up to date, this project was pushed to one side for a few months for various reasons and restarted in September. Sadly, I didn't take many photos as I was more concerned about pushing ahead and getting the job done.

The pistons and bores were fine, and all the bearing faces in the block were fine (mains and thrust) so I dug out the crank, rods and shells from another engine I had spare with failed ringlands.
I plastigauged all the bearings in their new home and all were within tolerance - just. Since I'm only planning low milages, and being mainly for competition larger clearances are favourable I re-used the old shells. It's a fairly easy job to replace shells at a later date if plans change.
The engine all went back together with a new standard OEM clutch and thrust bearing. I'm working on the theory that a 2WD car will put much less stress on the clutch pulling away than the GT4's I'm used to so a standard one should be ok.
Although I would normally fit a new water pump, this one looked like it had been replaced recently and again, bearing in mind the low intended milage, I put the old one back.

I thought I would have a closer look at the bubbled paint in the sill prior to the MOT and gave the bubbles a gentle tap with a pair of pliers - which promptly went straight through with no resistance. A wee bit of tickling with the angle grinder later the extent of the rot was visible.

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Judging by the 'tide mark' it appears that water gets into the sills and then lies there with no escape. Further investigation showed what appeared to be a drain hole which had been carefully covered with a sticky pad and then underseal over. Whether this is a factory thing, or whether it was done on import I have no idea.

Anyway, the inner sills and the higher parts of all the other structure was solid so it was a fairly easy job to cut off all the parts just above the tide mark leaving no rust of any significance. I then welded in new metal for the inner structure and coated it all in anti-rust primer and then a moisture repelling laquer. Finally a new section of outer sill was fabricated from a spare nissan micra sill I had lying about and butt-welded in to the hole. Finally the whole sill was sprayed internally with cavity wax, and the outside had a very thin skim of filler over the welds to 'hide the join'

Unfortunately I got so carried away doing the job I forgot to take pictures. The other side is showing a little bubble in the paint so i expect i'll be doing that before long and will take phots then.

I took it for MOT, which it failed on numberplates (size and stroke width) and numberplate lamps not working. (I always forget to check these for some reason). On re-test it went through with no advisories.

Driving the car, I'm very impressed with how responsive and well mannered it is when pushed beyond it's limits - also at just how quick it is in standard form. Certainly not a car for a novice. I'm looking forward to getting a bit more experience with it and doing some events.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 6:10 pm 
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Location: Wiltshire
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At last it is on the road :-)

Does it have to a sun roof, big cause of sill rust.

I have been thinking these would make a good auto test car, it will be interesting to see it perform :-)


Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:39 pm 
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To update, the car has covered a thousand or so miles without issue other than water in the ignition, so nicely settled in now.

My next event is an autotest at Henstridge on 23rd Feb so I've started doing a few bits & pieces in preparation.

I've now installed one of my prototype engine monitor / display units. This wires into the sensors used by the ECU to measure engine temperature, intake temperatures, RPM, Boost etc. to provide a display of any of these, plus it also constantly monitors against pre-set limits and raises the (very loud) alarm if something goes wrong.

Wired into the ECU using the solder & sleeve method. IMO the most reliable for a mid-loom connection in damp environments. The sleeving used is adhesive lined heat shrink, this is stiff enough to support the wire round the solder joint where it is brittle and also provides a water tight seal.

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Note the sparkly dash - this is good for another 10BHP at least !!!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:45 pm 
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Nice to see this coming along.

That dash is fantastic! :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:47 pm 
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I've got used to the sparkles now so won't bother changing it.

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