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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 12:18 am 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:39 pm
Posts: 514
Location: Bournemouth
Car Model: ST205
Right, im in the process of putting my car back together and wasted 4 hours trying to get the damn crush tubes back in (new ones)
I cant get the top bit of the banana arm to line up with the hole to get the crush tube to travel up that last little bit.....
Ive tried it with subframe all bolted up and jacking up the hub. Ive tried loosening the subframe and jacking up the hub. No matter what I do it just wont go... any pointers as I seem to have forgotten how to do it. Oh and it both sides in case you think something has gone funny on one side.
I even undid the plate that joins the 2 arms to the hub and still cant get it to line up.......(almost threw the extension bar through the windscreen!!!!!!)

thanks.

p.s. The crush tube goes up as far that its not poking out the bottom but that's not far enough right??? It has to go up into the top hole so that you know the arm is square when you torque it down?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 4:50 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
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Undo the plate holding the arms to the hub, pull the hub outwards.slightly to let the arm go up. May still require the hub to be jacked up a bit if you have driveshafts in.

This is why I leave the arms attached to the subframe and undo the plate from the hub and the fig8.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:24 am 
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Location: Bournemouth
Car Model: ST205
thanks Chris. I tried that, I even undid the other arm (the one with the awkward bolt that clashes with the sump.) and the the drop link. :(
the only thing I havn't done is undo ball joints but I know it can be done without having to do that....

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:30 am 
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If all else fails undo the ball joint so the arm is completely free. (I saw 2 splitters the other day so 1 may be yours ).

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:39 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
Car Model: ST205
Ohh pooo, I kinda guessed it was going to go that way. Thanks
The splitter is not mine, I used mine the other day on my crank pulley ;)

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:19 pm 
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Silly I know but did you check the crush tube fits with the arm out. I squished one of mine so it was slightly oval and was a v tight fit in the subframe - would have been a £40 minimum swear box donation if I hadn't checked first :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:39 pm 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:39 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
Car Model: ST205
two_OH_five wrote:
Silly I know but did you check the crush tube fits with the arm out. I squished one of mine so it was slightly oval and was a v tight fit in the subframe - would have been a £40 minimum swear box donation if I hadn't checked first :lol:


That's a good one to check and I will, but, the initial problem is I cant get the top of the arm to line up with the hole, visibly, its about 3mm out when I look up the hole where the bolt+crush tube slide in. I just cant seem to get the arm to slide around nicely in the pocket that it gets bolted into.

p.s. was it 10p a profanity?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:54 pm 
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Location: Bournemouth
Car Model: ST205
I thought of making a bar the same diameter as the crush tube with a taper one end and hammer the bugger in, tighten up the subframe, remove bar and insert crush tube, but knowing my luck the bar will get pinched and wont come out or the arm shifts as I pull the bar out...

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 11:48 pm 
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I always end up using a small bar to wedge the gap open where the crush tube goes and also undo or loosen the subframe bolt to allow it to flex when wedging the gap open.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 12:37 am 
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If everything is cleaned and lubricated and correct crush tubes are fitted then they should hold the arm in place and in line, unfortunately theres tubes available that are incorrect therefore resulting in misalignment

Martin

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 12:30 pm 
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handy to know, where can you get the incorrect ones? I've only seen Toyota ones (apart from the uprated thick walled ones which I think are correct in size no?)

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 12:45 am 
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Toyota ones only go in from the top, the only uprated ones ive seen that are the correct length apart from mine are a batch mrbarry made years ago all the others ive seen are too short so wont hold the arm in line, when I build one with my own anyone whos seen me fit them will tell you I dont have to do any alignment its a simple bolt up job

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 3:34 pm 
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How do you mean "go in front the top" ?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 7:01 pm 
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They have a collar on the tube which only allows entry into the sub-frame assembly from the top

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:32 pm 
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The genuine toyota one need to be installed from the top, the swelled end sits in a recess in the top of the subframe, the bottom end doesnt have the recess

Martin

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