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| grinding on full lock http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6877 |
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| Author: | niblettr [ Wed Dec 18, 2013 2:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | grinding on full lock |
I get a grinding/rumble on full lock in 1st and reverse driving off from standstill. It feels almost like the tyres are loosing traction. I have recently done the crush tubes correctly but not sure if the banana arm is sitting flush at the crush tube end. I dare not tighten them any more as I already stripped the tread and had to tap a new one.. Any ideas what this could be. Would wheel bearings do this? My SS components are fairly new.. |
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| Author: | TrackToyFour [ Wed Dec 18, 2013 8:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
It doesn't sound like wheel bearings to me. They usually make a harmonic type of noise at normal cruising speeds. I can't see how the banana arm would result in this type of noise either. I would check for witness marks onthe suspension and drive shafts or it may be a CV joint has gone on one of the driveshafts. |
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| Author: | niblettr [ Thu Dec 19, 2013 9:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
come to think of it, the passenger side cv boot wasn't fastened properly, so I cable tied it on. Maybe the grease fell out and and damage was done. Do think it could be that? Are there 2 joints per side, inner and out? The one that i'm talking about is the passenger side gearbox end. Also, I noticed a slight whirring at high speed but put that down to a wheel bearing on the way out as I had to adjust them once (remove the play) |
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| Author: | TrackToyFour [ Thu Dec 19, 2013 9:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
There's a CV joint at both ends of the drive shafts. The 'adjustment' you made to the wheel bearing to stop the wbirring noise seems a more likely cause of your problem. There is no adjustment possible on the bearing itself so it could have failed? I've had to replace two of mine. Water had got into them and the grease had curdled to a milky white colour. We were only able to spot this with a microphone/amplifier kit. Simply rotating the wheel or hub its difficult to tell if the bearing is shot. Worth trying anyway. Good luck! |
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| Author: | niblettr [ Thu Dec 19, 2013 9:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
ok, I did the adjustment (rightly or wrongly) by fractionally tightening the big centre nut on the wheel hub to remove the tiny bit of wheel play (removing split pin first..) So it could be the wheel bearing after all? So, should I just change both of them and have done with it... I did one of the rear ones about a year and a half ago and wasn't as painful as most made out to be.. (or are the front ones more of a pain?) How does one check the health of the cv joints? |
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| Author: | Nibbles [ Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
As above, there is no adjustment on the wheel bearings. The big nut in the middle is supposed to be f***g tight - technical term for tighter than most torque wreches go up to. If it's not tight and you have play, even for just a few miles, bearing damage is the normal result. Front bearings on 205's are very expensive so don't do them unless they really are gone. (I have a 20 ton press by the way if you want to bring the hubs in) If it's CV joint it will be outer one if it only does it on full lock. If it's wheel bearing, you normally hear the noise when you load the bearing, i.e. cornering with high G forces. It could of course be play in the bearings allowing the brake disk to scrape on the dirt shield. |
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| Author: | niblettr [ Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
ok, humm, didn't know about the big nut having to be Fing tight... How much are the front bearings then??? can both cv joints be replaced without changing the drive shaft? Defo not the brake disk shield and the rumbling I get can be felt through the steering wheel. (its horrible! feels almost like skipping understeer....) I only get this on 40%-100% lock at 0-10mph Ok, looks like I may have to arrange a trip down to you for you opinion on what I need to replace (I'm fed up of replacing EVERYTHING just to track down silly faults) |
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| Author: | niblettr [ Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
this bearing? >> http://www.id-workz.co.uk/index.php?mai ... cts_id=427 I know its not genuine but..... |
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| Author: | niblettr [ Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
TCB Celica ST 205 GT4 1993-1999 Front T137052 £68.50 + vat |
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| Author: | two_OH_five [ Thu Dec 19, 2013 8:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
Worth checking if Camberly Auto still do the bearings and what the price is. They are Blueprint parts but come with NSK bearings If you Jack 1 front wheel off the ground can you spin the wheel? |
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| Author: | niblettr [ Fri Dec 20, 2013 11:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
My car has been off the road temporarily because of this issue, I might as well check to see if the wheels are on tight.... |
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| Author: | darrylp [ Mon Dec 23, 2013 2:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
Its nothing as simple as the tyre touching the wheel liner ? Mine does it with new tyres, as I run more castor than stock. Maybe the alignment has changed since taking apart and doing everything back up ? -- Darryl |
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| Author: | niblettr [ Mon Dec 23, 2013 10:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: grinding on full lock |
no, don't think so. I think the problem is more serious. I was at some speed over a bumpy road and hear a BIG knock from under the car (it did not bottom out) It just feels horrible and understeers badly. The wheels are on tight.. nothing i can do atm due to the dog $hite weather... |
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