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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:28 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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anyone know if a code 52 knock sensor error would affect a blitz access like it would the OE, ECU?
as i think the wire maybe at fault, so looking on replaceing that first just to rule it out
so if anyone has a guide or any info on this, id be greatfull if its a reasonable DIY job ?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:14 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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Anyone ? With regards do the ECU or knock sensor wire


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:40 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:14 am
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
I know Nibbles has some experience with this. I'm not sure how easy it is to change the wire - I know part of it is a shielded cable and that can fail.

Pretty sure the Blitz et al ECU's are based on the OEM ones so quite possible they would be affected by an error code.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:55 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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I have looked into changing the wire, but seems to be one of those things, that's a black art
So not many actually know what's involved, except as you suggest, it requires a shielded cable
As for the ECU I see your point with regards to it being like the OE ECU
As its only really an added board, but was unsure if it would hold back the car
The same as the OE one would when there's a knock sensor error


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:02 am 
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Group B
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
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I'm afraid I have no knowledge of how the Blitz ECU behaves, hence I didn't answer.

The standard ECU detects the fault when the engine goes over 3,000 RPM but nothing is heard from the knock sensor. Once the engine light has come up, the ignition is retarded a fair bit (for safety) which reduced performance and also makes the exhaust run much hotter.

As for 'replacing the cable' - unless there is physical damage the cable itself is unlikely to be faulty - more likely a connector fault, and more likely at the knock sensor end. That's assuming, of course, you have already changed the sensor as that is the most likely thing to fail.

It is a screened cable, with the screen earthed at the ECU end. At the sensor end, the screen is cut short and not connected.
A common mistake is to 'strip' the wire further back to re-make the connector, without realising they have actually now connected the outer and inner strands together, effectively short circuiting the signal. I suspect this is what has lead to the myth of cable failures. To re-make the end properly, carefully remove the outer plastic covering to reveal the outer screen layer. Pull these strands to on side (and cut them off at engine end, connect to earth at ECU end) to reveal the inner plastic cable sleeve. This can then be stripped normally and connected.

Image

screening is normally braid, individual strands right round or a single wire with foil screen. Sometimes, a combination.

Braid:
Image

Foil:
Image

Strands:
Image

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 7:51 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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thanks for the explanation and photos
im assuming due to its location, its going to be a hard/difficult thing to do
i havnt actually tryed yet as im trying to get as much info before even attempting it
if you`ve worked on the cable is there a certain way of doing-it due to the location
also researching, ive heard of some kind of adaptor that help fits the cable connection easyer
as for the sensor itself, one has been changed by the garage in the past after a boost spike (before i had a EBC)
and i have another used one, but im usure if that ones ok
so unless i get a new one, i guess im always going to be dubious
also the engine was replace about a year and a half ago, so i was woundering if the cable/connector may have got
damaged and failed over time
i have access to a camera telescope, like used in garages to see in hard to get to places
would this help to check the cable/connection


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
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The cable to the sensor comes out of the bottom of the hard loom that runs across the inlet manifold and drops down through the manifold between runners. The only easy way to access the connector is to unclip it from the knock sensor and pull it up through so you can get at it from above. This will involve removing intercooler and throttle body, and probably undoing the 2 screws that hold the loom to the manifold. If you want to get more through, you will also need to undo the ECU earth ans the 1 or 2 solenoid plugs that are also under the manifold then the whole loom can lift..

Access to knock sensor and other under manifold parts is via the hole for the steering arm after removing drivers side wheel. You need arms like a gibbon.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 9:02 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
Posts: 65
Car Model: None
Thanks for the info, looks like I've got plenty to think about
Will have a go at the above suggested just to get a feel for what's involved
Hopefully it will be easyer actually doing it


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